SixThreeZero AROUND THE BLOCK Assembly Manual

If you run into any issues, no matter how small, let us know and we’ll take care of it. OUR COMMITMENT SIXTHREEZERO [email protected] 310.982.2877

Want live help? Call or email to schedule an appointment. MEET JACOB, OUR MECHANIC [email protected] 310.982.2877

part... the assembly. I know, I know, we’ve all had to assemble something we’ve bought before - a tv stand, coffee table, possibly a grill or even a bike a time or two before. It’s never fun, it never goes well, you always lose a nut or a screw and by the time you’re done, you’d rather destroy whatever it is you’ve bought than actually use it. Well, I’m here to make sure that doesn’t happen. Assembly of a bike can be a fun, engaging, learning experience. Call up a friend, ask your spouse or child, don’t rush, and enjoy the process. Part of the fun in building your bike is telling people “I built it all by myself.” I build bikes almost everyday and I always learn something new. I enjoy the process of building something from the ground up, and I hope you will too. The instructions were written and designed by me, so if you have any suggestions please let me know! Good luck, MECHANIC / SIXTHREEZERO A NOTE FROM OUR MECHANIC

best feeling ever. We want you to have fun building your new bike, so there’s only a few things you need to get started. TOOLS YOU’LL NEED

SCHRADER VALVE BICYCLE PUMP 8, 10, 13, AND 15MM CRESCENT WRENCHES or use the multi-tool provided BICYCLE OR AUTO GREASE 2 PENNIES recommended 4, 5, AND 6MM ALLEN KEY MALLET OR HAMMER

Make sure you have all the parts before getting started. WHAT’S IN EACH BOX? 12MM 14MM 17MM FRONT FENDER BOLT 10MM FRONT + REAR EYELE T BOLTS 8MM PEDALS + REAR AXEL 15MM 13MM 9MM

Keep this handy during assembly, and everything will go just fine. BIKE PARTS REFERENCE

REFLECTOR CRANK LOCK NUT SEATPOST CLAMP KICK STAND SEATPOST SEAT PEDALS EYELET SCREWS CHAIN CRANK ARM CHAIN GUARD FORK HANDLEBARS HANDLEBAR STEM FRONT REFLECTOR REAR REFLECTOR SPOKE RIM TIRE AXLE TIRE VALVE PEDALS SEAT

AND LONG BOLT (pre-installed) FRONT REFLECTOR HAVING TROUBLE? WANT LIVE HELP? CALL 310.982.2877 OR EMAIL [email protected].

01 02 Spin the front fork so that the handlebars are pointing inwards. The fork curves out away from the frame while the eyelets face in towards the frame. CORRECT The fork curves inwards towards the frame while the eyelets face out, away from the frame. INCORRECT Using scissors or snips, cut off zip ties and remove all packaging from the bike.

Locate the arrow on the wall of the tire. If it doesn’t have an arrow, you can add the wheel in any direction. With the arrow pointing forward, insert the wheel into the fork dropouts. The axle nuts will fall inside the fork entry. Tighten nuts on both sides with a 15mm crescent or socket wrench and verify wheel is sitting in center of the fork. You can now put the kickstand down to hold the bicycle up. 03 Insert the handlebar stem through the lock nut cap and into the headtube. Line up the stem, frame, and front wheel, then tighten. the handlebar stem bolt. 04 Straightening the stem, frame, and front wheel will ensure that your handlebars and wheel are properly aligned. NOTE FORK DROPOUTS AXLE NUTS FRONT WHEEL HANDLEBAR STEM HEADTUBE LOCK NUT CAP MULTI-TOOL HANDLEBAR LOCK NUT CAP

Line up the stem, frame, and front wheel, then tighten. the handlebar stem bolt. Loosen handlebar adjustment bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Change the angle of the handlebars to your liking. 05 The front reflector will be installed into the hole at the top of the fork and below the head tube. Tighten with the Phillips head screw driver and 10mm wrench. 06 Order from front to back: LONG BOLT, WASHER, FORK, WASHER, NUT. NOTE ADJUST BOLT 6MM ALLEN KEY PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER TIGHTEN BOLT FRONT REFLECTOR

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, loosen the bolt in the bracket and slide the rear reflector over the seatpost. Tighten anywhere on the seatpost that is of uniform diameter. 08 Apply grease to seat lever. Holding the seat post firmly, insert into seat post tube until the top is level with your waist. Tighten the seat post clamp with a 6mm Allen key. 07 BICYCLE OR AUTO GREASE Make sure not to drop seat post into the frame. CAUTION PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER TIGHTEN 6MM SEAT POST 6MM ALLEN AKEY REAR REFLECTOR Only install the rear reflector if it comes separate from the rear rack. NOTE

Place the seat onto the seat post, using the 14mm multi-tool to tighten the nuts under the seat. ADJUSTMENT To change seat angle, loosen the nuts and adjust seat to desired angle then tighten again. 09 ADJUST BOLT MULTI-TOOL

Apply grease to threading on both pedals. Select the pedal stamped R and locate the right side of the bike (with the chain and chain guard). Align threading with the right crank arm, turning the pedal clockwise to tighten it. Locate the pedal stamped L and align with the left crank arm. The left side pedal is reverse-threaded, tightening in a counterclockwise direction. Hand tighten accordingly, then follow up by tightening both pedals with the 15mm multi-tool or crescent wrench. 10 RIGHT PEDAL LEFT PEDAL BICYCLE OR AUTO GREASE PEDALS MULTI-TOOL

Pump air into the tires to PSI 40MAX, as recommended on the sidewall of the tire. 11 SCHRADER VALVE BICYCLE PUMP Sit on the bike and check the angle formed by your knee. If your knee forms the incorrect angle, use the seat post clamp lever to raise the seat until you have a subtle bend or achieve a comfortable height. 12 CORRECT INCORRECT SEAT

REAR RACK

Align the front rear rack arms to the eyelets on the frame below the seat. Use a 4mm allen key to tighten the screws and attach the rear rack to the frame. 13 4MM ALLEN KEY REAR RACK (2) 4MM ALLEN KEY SCREWS (pre-installed) 14 5MM ALLEN KEY (2) 5MM ALLEN KEY SCREWS (pre-installed) Install the bottom rear rack arms to the frame using the 5mm allen screws. Tighten with a 5mm allen key. Repeat on both sides.

14 5MM ALLEN KEY (2) 5MM ALLEN KEY SCREWS (pre-installed) Install the bottom rear rack arms to the frame using the 5mm allen screws. Tighten with a 5mm allen key. Repeat on both sides.

BRAKE ASSEMBLY 5MM ALLEN KEY PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER FRONT BRAKE ARMS + PADS BRAKE CABLE METAL TUBE BRAKE LEVERS

ATTACHED BRAKE CABLE Only follow steps 1-9 if your brake cable is not attached to the bicycle. If your brake cable is attached, skip to step 10. NOTE BARREL CABLE 01 There are two ends to the brake cable. One end has a barrel attached, while the other end has an open piece of cable.

02 04 Slide the cable housing up toward the brake lever until it fits snug inside the barrel adjuster. 05 Turn the lock ring on the barrel adjuster clockwise, tightening the barrel to prevent any loose movement. LOCK RING 03 Pull on the cable and slide it through the narrow crevice that runs along the brake lever. BRAKE LEVER CREVICE BARREL HANGER BARREL ADJUSTER BARREL ADJUSTER Attach the brake cable to the brake lever by squeezing the lever and inserting the barrel into the barrel hanger.

07 Slide the metal tube up the brake cable until the housing fits snugly into the cable housing. CABLE GUIDE METAL TUBE METAL TUBE 06 Insert the open end of the brake cable into the larger end of the metal tube.

08 Slide the exposed end of the metal into the metal tube hanger, located on the left brake arm. Make sure the metal tube is hooked securely inside the hanger. LEFT BRAKE ARM METAL TUBE HANGER END OF METAL TUBE Using a 5mm Allen key, loosen the brake cable adjustment screw. Slide remaining brake cable between the right brake arm and the adjustment screw. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT SCREW RIGHT BRAKE ARM 09 5MM ALLEN KEY

10 Pull the cable outward, reducing the distance between the brake pads and the rim by about 1/4 inch on both sides. Retighten the adjustment screw. CABLE 11 Make sure the pads are evenly lined up with the rim. If the pads rub against the tire, they are too high; if they don’t make full contact with the rim when braking, they are too low. Adjust the positions by holding the brake pad with one hand and loosening the nut on the back with a 5mm Allen key. 5MM ALLEN KEY ADJUST WITH 5MM ALLEN KEY

12 If one pad seems to run against the rim while the other still has plenty of space, you will need to center the brakes. To do this, adjust the spring tensioner screws located at the base of each brake arm. Tightening the screw on the right brake arm pushes the right brake pad away from the rim, and the left brake pad towards the rim. Loosening the right screw allows the right brake pad to move closer to the rim, and the left brake pad away from the rim. SPRING TENSIONER SCREW

3 SPEED DERAILLEUR TUNING 10MM MULTI-TOOL PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER DIAGRAM TOOLS REQUIRED LOCK NUT BARREL CABLE ADJUSTER CABLE SHIFTER

01 Check and adjust gears. Shift into 2nd gear by twisting the shifting unit. The shifter has an outer exterior that resembles a gold ball, that us the part that turns. 02 Look through the window in the back of the rear hub. If the yellow dot is within the parallel lines and arrows, your bike is properly adjusted.

03 If not adjusted correctly, loosen the lock nut with a 10mm cresent wrench, and turn the adjustment barrel in either direction. The yellow dot will start to move. 04 Tightening the adjustment barrel in, moves the yellow dot away from the rear wheel. 10MM MULTI-TOOL

06 10MM MULTI-TOOL 05 Untightening the adjustment barrel out moves the yellow dot in towards the rear wheel. Center the yellow dot within the parallel lines. Once the yellow dot is within range, tighten down the nut using the 10mm crescent wrench.

7 SPEED DERAILLEUR TUNING 9MM MULTI-TOOL PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER H LIMIT SCREW DIAGRAM TOOLS REQUIRED L LIMIT SCREW CABLE ADJUSTMENT BOLT BARREL CABLE ADJUSTER

01 To adjust the rear derailleur, first twist the shifter until the number 7 is highlighted on the shift knob. 02 Rotate pedals until the chain falls into the smallest cog. SMALLEST COG

BARREL ADJUSTER 03 Turn the barrel adjuster located on the rear derailleur clockwise until it stops. 04 If the chain still hasn’t reached the smallest cog, then you will need to adjust the “High Gear” limiting screw located on the derailleur (indicated by the letter H). With a Phillips screwdriver, gradually turn the screw counterclockwise 1/4 turn at a time while rotating the pedal until the chain falls onto the smallest cog. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER The “High Gear” limiting screws are very sensitive. We recommend using only 1/4 turn at a time, in case you have to revert back to it’s original position. NOTE

Each gear should shift with a corresponding “click” sound. NOTE 05 06 Now adjust the cable tension, which controls how your bike will shift. Using a 9mm crescent wrench or the multi-tool, loosen the cable adjustment screw and pull on the cable. While keeping tension on the cable, tighten the cable adjustment screw. Rotate the pedals and try to shift between gears. If it doesn’t shift from 7th to 6th gear in one click, then the cable needs to be tightened. To tighten the cable, twist the barrel adjuster counterclockwise 1/4 turn at a time until it is able to shift from 7th to 6th gear in one click. Shift through the gears from 7th to 1st, then back from 1st to 7th. If the gears feel sluggish when shifting from 7th to 1st, tighten the cable by turning the barrel adjuster counterclockwise. If shifting feels fine from 7th to 1st, but sluggish from 1st to 7th, loosen the cable by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise. Continue to adjust the derailleur cable until you are able to shift between each gear with a single click. 9MM MULTI-TOOL

21 SPEED DERAILLEUR TUNING DIAGRAM FRONT DERAILLEUR CHAINWHEEL (CHAIN RING) REAR DERAILLEUR REAR CASSETTE (COGS) HIGH & LOW SCREWS CLAMP BOLT CLAMP SHIFTER CABLE CLAMP, NUT & BOLT INNER CAGE PLATE OUTER CAGE PLATE

The front shifter is a “Friction” shifter. This just means that there is no specific level set for each gear. You will be shifting generally by “feel”, so when you you twist this shifter, make sure to pay attention to see if your gear is shifting up or down. We do this for two reasons: For the majority of commuter and recreation- al type riding, the rider won’t want to be shift- ing the front shifter a lot. It allows smoother shifting and allows more of a selection than an Index shifter. We recommend to have an extra person assit you in the tuning of the front derailleur. Person 1, will be responsible for lifting the bicycle off the ground while Person 2, will be in charge of pedaling and shifting. Doing this, will facilitate your overall assembly experience. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER TOOLS REQUIRED 5MM ALLEN KEY 9MM MULTI-TOOL MALLET OR HAMMER We tune every bike before packaging, but I would still recommend checking the tun- ing. It’s possible that they may need to be readjusted after being shipped to you. These instructions are designed to help if your bike needs a little extra work. If you don’t feel comfortable working on your bike, we suggest taking it to your local bike shop for final assembly. NOTE FRICTION SHIFTER 2 PERSON ASSEMBLY RECOMMENDED CAUTION Please be careful with the derailleur cage as it has tension that causes the cage to pull back into the frame when attached to the shifting cable.

01 Check your bike’s tuning by taking it for a test ride. Shift the front derailleur up and down to check each gear while riding. If you hear any rubbing coming from the chain hit- ting the derailleur in any of the gears, you will need to tune the front derailleur. 02 Shift the front derailleur to the smallest gear. DERAILLEUR POSITION

03 9MM MULTI-TOOL 04 Use a 9mm wrench/socket to loosen the nut that clamps the shifting cable to the front derailleur. This will disconnect the shifting cable from the front derailleur. 2 PENNIES Lift the chain and pull the cage away from the bike to place a penny in between the outer cage and the largest chainwheel. If you can fit two pennies, then your front derailleur is too high. If the penny fits snuggly in between the outer cage and the chainwheel, you can move to step 6.

Untighten the clamp with a 9mm wrench/socket a quar- ter turn at a time until you are able to tap the derailleur slightly up and down without it falling completely down the seat tube. While still pulling the cage forward, grab a penny and place it above the largest chainwheel. Ad- just the height of the derailleur cage so it sits above the penny. With a mallet/hammer and the allen key, you can slightly tap the derailleur up or down based on its original position. Reference the bottom right image as an exam- ple. Now tighten the cage in place with a 9mm wrench/ socket. 05 9MM MULTI-TOOL MALLET OR HAMMER 2 PENNIES 1 2 3 4

06 Once the height is set, we must check the angle of the cage. Lift the chain and pull the cage forward and view the cage from above. The inside of the outer cage plate must be parallel to the largest chainwheel. If your outer cage plate is parallel to the largest chainwheel, you can move to step 8. 07 If your outer cage plate is NOT parallel to the largest chainwheel, untighten the clamp a quarter turn at a time until you are able to slightly move the derailleur. 9MM MULTI-TOOL 1 2 3 4

Based on the angle, tap on the back or the front of the cage after every turn until it moves slightly. Tap the cage left or right to align the cage plate and the largest chainwheel. Recheck the angle to make sure that they are parallel. Now tighten the cage in place with a 9mm wrench/socket. 08 9MM MULTI-TOOL MALLET OR HAMMER If you untighten the derailleur too much, it will potentially offset the height of the derailleur causing a need to repeat step 5. NOTE

Derailleurs work off of tension, and this is the reason that they are designed with High and Low Limiter screws. The High and Low Limiters essentially act as boundaries so that no matter how much tension you put into or take off the shifter cable, the derailleur will not go past the largest or smallest gears. The High (H) screw is the limiter for the largest gear, and the Low (L) screw is the limiter for the smallest gear. NOTE COUNTERCLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE Turning the L & H counterclockwise shortens the range where the derailleur cage can travel. Turning the L & H clockwise increases the range where the derailleur cage can travel. 09 Pull the shifting cable up, align it behind the clamping nut, and make sure to pull out any slack in the cable. Tighten the shifting cable to the derailleur by using a 9mm wrench/socket. 9MM MULTI-TOOL L H L H

10 Now, let’s check the H limit screw. Begin by shifting the derailleur to 3rd gear. While turning the pedals, shift into 3rd gear. If the chain does not fall off the largest chain- wheel when shifting into 3rd gear, the H limit screw is close to proper positioning. Reference the bottom left image below to check if the derailleur is properly adjusted. If it matches the images, please move forward to Step 12. Looking through the front of the derailleur cage, decide whether the chain is too close to the inner or outer cage plates. If the chain is too close to the outer cage plate, turn the H screw clockwise a quarter turn at a time until it is centered. If the chain is too close to the inner cage plate (closer than the outer cage plate or it is rubbing), then turn the H screw counter-clockwise a quarter turn at a time until it is centered. LIMITER SCREWS 11 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

12 Now, let’s check the L limit screw. Begin by shifting the derailleur to 1st gear. While turning the pedals, shift into 1st gear. It may take more than 1 click. If the chain does not fall off the smallest chainwheel after shifting from 2nd to 1st, the L limit screw is close to proper positioning.

Reference the image below on the left, if the chain is cen- tered in between the inner and outer cage plates, you can move on to step 14, Micro Adjustments. If the chain is NOT centered in between the inner cage, you will need to use a Phillips head to center the inner walls of the cage to the chain. Looking overhead at the cage and inspect its current position. Based on the screws original position, take note of the amount of quarter turn rotations given in either direction to the L screw, until the inner and outer cage plates are centered. If the outer cage plate is too far in and rubbing against the chain, you have to turn the L screw counter- clockwise. If the inner cage plate is too far out and rubbing against the chain, you have to turn the L screw clockwise. 14 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER 13 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

16 Locate the barrel adjuster located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the shifter. Note/ Explanation: The barrel adjuster will change the amount of tension on the shifting cable. This helps the derailleur move up and down the gears. Turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise a quarter turn at a time while pedaling the bike. Keep checking for rub/lag on each gear until it disappears. If the rub/lag persists, please feel free to contact one of our mechanics to help you troubleshoot this last step. 15 Now that you have adjusted the limiter screws, let’s check each gear to make sure that the derailleur is shifting correctly. Shift from 1st gear to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd gear, and from 3rd to 1st gear. If you can pedal the bike in each gear without hearing rub, and it’s shifting up and down without resistance or lag, the front derailleur is properly adjusted. If not, we will need to do some minor adjustments with the barrel adjuster. CABLE TENSION AND SHIFTING

Your front derailleur should be ready at this point. Finish up any other adjustments/assembly on the rest of your bike, and enjoy the ride! If you have/had any trouble at all, please feel free to contact our team at: (310) 982-2877 [email protected] 17

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Still have questions? We’re happy to help. Want to share your journey with us? We’re happy about that, too. CONGRATULATIONS SIXTHREEZERO [email protected] 310.982.2877