Bernina 325 Manual
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Dear Bernina Customer,
Congratulations!
You’ve decided on BERNINA, a reliable choice that will delight you for years to come.
For over 100 years, our family has placed the highest value on satisfied customers. For
myself, it is a matter of personal pride to offer you Swiss precision at the height of
perfection, future-oriented sewing technology, and a comprehensive customer service.
The BERNINA 325 and 335 are primarily aimed at the occasional sewer who puts great
stock in design and customer benefit. These sewing computers are very ergonomically
built and therefore even easier to operate, to help you, our esteemed customers, on
your journey to even greater sewing pleasure and perfect results.
Enjoy creative sewing with BERNINA:
Find out about our varied range of accessory and let yourself be inspired by new sewing
projects at www.bernina.com.
And don’t forget to make use of service and maintenance offers from our highly trained
BERNINA dealers.
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner
BERNINA International AG
CH-8266 Steckborn
www.bernina.com
Introduction
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety
precautions should always be followed, including
the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing
computer.
When the sewing computer is not in use, it
should be disconnected from the electricity
supply by removing the plug from the outlet.
DANGER!
To reduce the risk of electrical shock:
1. The sewing computer should never be left
unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from
the electrical outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
3. LED radiation. Do not view directly with
optical instruments. LED class 1M
WARNING!
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or
injury to persons:
1. Use the sewing computer only for purposes
as described in this manual. Use only at-
tachments/accessory recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this manual.
2. Do not allow the sewing computer to be
used as a toy. Close attention is necessary
when this sewing computer is used by or
near children and infirm persons. This sew-
ing computer is not intended for use by
persons (including children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or
lack of experience and knowledge, unless
they have been given supervision or instruc-
tion concerning use of the sewing computer
by a person responsible for their safety.
Children must be kept under supervision to
ensure that they do not play with the sewing
computer.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if:
⦁
it has a damaged cord or plug
⦁
it is not working properly
⦁
it has been dropped or damaged
⦁
it has fallen into water.
Take the sewing computer to the nearest
authorized BERNINA dealer for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing computer with
any air vents blocked. Keep ventilation
openings of the sewing computer free from
lint, dust and/or fabric bits.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.
Special care is required in the needle area
of the sewing computer.
6. Never drop or insert any objects into any
opening on the sewing computer.
7. Do not use the sewing computer outdoors.
8. Do not operate the sewing computer where
aerosol products (spray) or oxygen is being
administered.
9. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching.
This may deflect the needle, causing it to
break.
10. Do not use bent needles.
11. Always use the BERNINA original stitch
plate. The wrong stitch plate can cause
needle breakage.
12. To disconnect, turn power switch to «0»
(off), then remove the plug from the outlet.
Do not unplug by pulling the cord, instead
grasp the plug to pull it from the outlet.
13. Turn power switch to «0» (off) when making
any adjustments in the needle area, such
as changing the needle or the presser foot,
etc.
14. Always unplug the sewing computer from
the electrical outlet when carrying out clean-
ing or maintenance work or any other user
servicing adjustments mentioned in this
manual.
15. This sewing computer is provided with
double insulation (except USA and Cana-
da). Use only genuine replacement parts.
Please note the advice on the servicing of
double-insulated products.
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
BERNINA is committed to the protection
of the environment. We strive to mini-
mize the environmental impact of our
products by continuously improving
product design and our technology of
manufacturing.
At end of life please dispose this product
in an environmentally responsible way
according to the national directive. Do
not throw away this product with your
household waste. In case of doubt,
please contact your dealer.
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold
room, it should be brought to a warm
room about one hour before use.
Find the most current version
of your manual at
www.bernina.com
Safety instructions
SERVICING DOUBLE
INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of
insulation are provided instead of grounding. No
grounding means is provided on a double-insulat-
ed product nor should a means for grounded be
added to the product. Servicing a double-insulat-
ed product requires extreme care and knowledge
of the system and should only be done by quali-
fied service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to the
original parts in the product.
A double insulated product is marked with the
words: «Double-Insulation» or «double-insulat-
ed».
The symbol
may also be marked on the prod-
uct.
DISCLAIMER
No liability will be assumed for any possible
damage which arises from misuse of this sewing
computer.
This sewing computer is intended for household
use only.
Key to the symbols
5
Glossary
5
Scope of delivery
6
Standard accessory .............................................................. 6
Presser feet – Snap-on ........................................................ 7
Accessory box ...................................................................... 7
Sewing computer overview
8
Front View .............................................................................. 8
Detail View ............................................................................. 8
Side view ................................................................................ 9
Sewing preparations
10
Foot control ......................................................................... 10
LED sewing light ................................................................. 10
Slide-on table ...................................................................... 10
FHS (Free Hand System) (optional accessory for B 335
only) ...................................................................................... 11
Vertical Spool Pin ............................................................... 11
Winding a Bobbin ............................................................... 12
Inserting a Bobbin .............................................................. 12
Bobbin Case ........................................................................ 13
Needle threader ................................................................... 14
Threading the Upper Thread ............................................. 14
Threading the Double Needle ........................................... 15
Threading the Triple Needle .............................................. 15
Thread cutter ....................................................................... 16
Changing the Needle .......................................................... 16
Changing the presser-foot sole ........................................ 16
Stitch plate ........................................................................... 17
Thread tension .................................................................... 17
Balance ................................................................................. 18
Feed dog .............................................................................. 19
⦁
Feed-dog drop ................................................................. 19
⦁
Feed-dog and fabric feed ................................................ 19
Height Compensation of Uneven Layers ......................... 20
Sewing Corners ................................................................... 20
Important Facts about Sewing Needles........................... 21
⦁
Thread ............................................................................. 21
⦁
Needle, Thread and Fabric ............................................. 21
Overview Needles ............................................................... 22
Functions
23
Function Buttons on the Sewing Computer .................... 23
Stitch Selection ................................................................... 23
Details of the Screen .......................................................... 25
Memory ................................................................................ 25
Programming Practical and Decorative Stitches ............ 26
Programming Alphabets and Numbers ........................... 27
Corrections in Memory ...................................................... 28
Deleting complete Memory contents ............................... 28
Leaving the Memory ........................................................... 28
Stitch overview
29
Practical stitches................................................................. 29
Examples of Application
30
Zippers ................................................................................. 30
Darning ................................................................................. 31
Zig-zag .................................................................................. 31
Vari overlock ...................................................................... 32
Double Overlock ................................................................. 32
Ribbing with Overlock Stitch ............................................. 33
Honeycomb Stitch Edges .................................................. 33
Blind hem ............................................................................. 34
Securing Stitch .................................................................... 34
Buttonholes
35
Buttonhole Summary ......................................................... 35
Everything you need to know about buttonholes .......... 35
Corded Buttonhole ............................................................. 37
Automatic standard buttonhole with auto-length .......... 38
Automatic keyhole buttonhole with auto-length ........... 39
Manual buttonhole (all types) ............................................ 40
Buttonhole in Long-Term Memory .................................. 41
Button sewing-on program ................................................ 41
More stitches
42
Basting stitch ...................................................................... 42
Handlook quilting stitch ..................................................... 42
Cleaning, maintenance
43
Troubleshooting
44
Stitch-Pattern Summary
45
BERNINA 325....................................................................... 45
BERNINA 335....................................................................... 45
Index
46
Imprint
50
Key to the symbols
DANGER!
Very important!
Risk of injury!
WARNING!
Very important!
Risk of damage!
Supplementary information!
Glossary
Balance
Correcting abnormalities in stitch formation due to the fabric
clr
Deleting settings or data
LED
Sewing light system
FHS
Free-Hand System = Knee-operated presser-foot lifter
mem
Memory = Longterm data store
Bartack
Buttonhole-bead cross-connections
Satin stitching
Dense zig-zag
Fabric fold
Folded edge of material
Hook
«Catches» the needle-thread loop, forming the seam together with the lower thread
Scope of delivery
ope of del
6
Scope of delivery
Scope of delivery
Standard accessory
1 Dust cover (B 335 only)
2 Accessory box
3 Foot control
4 Power cable
5 Slide-on table
6 Stitch pattern summary card
1 3 bobbins (one of them in the bobbin case)
2 Selection of needles
3 Height compensating tool
4 Seam ripper
5 Screwdriver, red
6 Hex key
7 Lint brush
8 Lubricator
9 1 Foam pad
10 3 spool discs
1
3
4
6
5
7
8
9
10
2
1
2
3
4
5
6
Scope of delivery
1 No. 1
Reverse pattern sole
2 No. 2 Overlock sole
3 No. 3A Buttonhole foot with slide
(B 335 only)
4 No. 3 Buttonhole sole (B 325 olnly)
5 No. 4
Zipper sole
6 No. 5
Blindstitch sole
7 No. 20 Open embroidery sole (B 335
only)
Find more accessories on
www.bernina.com
Presser feet – Snap-on
Accessory box
Storing Accessory
Standard accessory is supplied in a plastic bag. It can be stored in the acces-
sory box.
1
5
6
7
2
4
3
Sewing computer overview
24
25
26
23
1
2
3
4
8
10
11
17
16
15
20
9
18
19
33
22
21
12
6
5
13
14
7
Detail View
43
45
42
40
41
39
Sewing computer overview
Front View
43
44
Sewing computer overview
32
31
9
27
18
29
28
30
37
38
33
34
35
36
1 Bobbin cover
2 Stitch plate
3 Attachment base for special accessory
4 LED sewing light
5 Quick reverse button
6 Start/Stop button
7 Thread take-up cover
8 Thread take-up lever
9 Bobbin winder pre-tension stud
10 Speed control
11 Screen
12 Needle stop up/down button
13 Pattern end button
14 Mirror image button (B 335 only)
15 Stitch length buttons
16 Needle position buttons
17 Stitch width buttons
18 Spooling device with bobbin winder axis
19 Thread cutter on bobbin winder
20 Memory buttons
21 Alphabet buttons
22 Stitch selection buttons
23 #-button (hash button)
24 «clr» (clear) button
25 Slide-on table socket
26 FHS (Free Hand System) connection (B 335 only)
27 Thread tension adjustment wheel
28 Rear thread guide
29 Carrying handle
30 Vertical spool pin
31 Horizontal spool pin
32 Eyelet
33 Handwheel
34 Balance adjuster
35 Foot control socket
36 Feed-dog drop
37 Power switch on/off
38 Power plug socket
39 Needle threader
40 Thread guide
41 Needle clamp
42 Presser foot
43 Thread cutter in hook opening
44 Hook
45 Feed dog
46 Thread cutter on head frame (left)
47 Presser foot lifter
48 Darning hoop connection
25
2
3
46
47
48
Side view
The LED sewing light illuminates the sewing area and has a long product life.
LED sewing light
DANGER!
Please note that a defective sewing light must ONLY be
replaced by an authorized technician.
The sewing computer must be taken to an authorized BERNINA
dealer!
Sewing speed control
⦁
control the sewing speed by pressing the foot control
Self storing cord
⦁
wind the cable around the spool
⦁
insert the plug into the groove provided
While sewing
⦁
unwind the cable
Sewing preparations
Foot control
The slide-on table increases the sewing surface.
Attaching the slide-on table
⦁
raise needle and presser foot
⦁
slide over free-arm to the right until it engages
Removing the slide-on table
⦁
raise needle and presser foot
⦁
press button down and pull off slide-on table to the left
Slide-on table
The FHS raises and lowers the presser foot.
Attaching the lifter
⦁
insert into the opening; you should be able to operate the FHS with your
knee in your normal sitting position
Raising and lowering the presser foot
⦁
with your knee push lever to the right
⦁
the presser foot is raised; the feed dog is lowered simultaneously. The
thread tension is released
⦁
the feed dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn
FHS (Free Hand System) (optional accessory for B 335 only)
⦁
the vertical spool pin is on the side behind the handwheel
⦁
it is an essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double
needle work
⦁
raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position
⦁
when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
Vertical Spool Pin
Your dealer can adjust the FHS if necessary.
A
Inserting a Bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise.
Laying the thread into the slot
Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot.
⦁
turn power switch on (to «I»)
⦁
place empty bobbin on spindle
⦁
place thread on spool pin
⦁
attach appropriate spool disc; diameter of thread spool determines disc size
⦁
following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear guide and
round the pre-tension stud
⦁
wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin and cut off any
excess thread on the thread cutter
⦁
push engaging lever against bobbin, the winder works automatically
⦁
the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
Winding a Bobbin
Bobbin winding while sewing
⦁
place thread spool on vertical spool pin then, following the direction of the
arrow, take thread through the thread guide and around the pre-tension
stud
⦁
then proceed as mentioned above
Thread cutter
⦁
pull thread over thread cutter when removing the bobbin
Pulling the thread under the spring
Pull the thread to the left under the spring until it lies in the T-shaped slit at the
end of the spring. The bobbin must turn clockwise.
To remove the bobbin case
⦁
raise needle
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
open the bobbin cover
⦁
grasp the latch of the bobbin case
⦁
remove bobbin case
Bobbin thread cutter
⦁
insert the bobbin case
⦁
take the thread over cutter A and cut it
⦁
close the bobbin cover
To insert the bobbin case
⦁
hold the bobbin case latch
⦁
the finger on the case should point upwards
⦁
insert the case so that it clicks into place
The bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end
is just the right length to start sewing.
A
Threading the Upper Thread
Attaching the thread spool
⦁
raise the needle and presser foot
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
place foam pad on pin base
⦁
Place the sewing thread on the thread roll holder so that the thread is
unwound clockwise
⦁
attach appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool determines disc size, there
must be no clearance between the disc and the spool
⦁
take thread through rear guide A
⦁
then into slit of upper thread tension B
⦁
pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover and around C
⦁
take thread up to the left of the cover and around D, placing it in the
take-up lever
⦁
take thread down and through guides E and F
Needle threader
1 Press lever down
⦁
raise needle
⦁
lower the presser foot
⦁
hold thread to the left and back
⦁
press lever A down and simultaneously guide the thread around hook B to
the right to the needle
2 Guide thread to front of the needle
⦁
put the thread from the front into the guide C until it catches in the wire
hook
3 Release lever and thread
⦁
release lever A and thread
⦁
put the thread under the foot and pull the thread backwards or
⦁
put the thread under the foot and pull it from front to back over the thread
cutter on left side of the head frame
B
B
A
C
A
A
C
D
E
F
1
3
2
Threading the First Thread
⦁
place thread spool on horizontal spool pin and thread
⦁
guide the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the
right side
⦁
thread sewing computer as usual and thread the right needle
Threading the Second Thread
⦁
place thread spool on the vertical spool pin and thread
⦁
guide the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the
left side
⦁
thread the left needle
⦁
threads must not be twisted together
⦁
two thread spools and one full bobbin are needed
⦁
place one thread spool on horizontal spool pin
⦁
place second thread spool and the bobbin, separated by a spool disc, on
vertical spool pin (both spools have to turn in the same direction)
⦁
thread as usual by guiding two threads on the left side of the tension disc A
and one thread on the right side of the disc
A
A
Threading the Triple Needle
Threading the Double Needle
Removing the needle
⦁
raise needle
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
lower the presser foot
⦁
loosen the needle clamp screw
⦁
pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
⦁
flat side of needle to the back
⦁
insert the needle as far as it will go
⦁
tighten the needle clamp screw
Changing the Needle
Thread cutter
On the left of the head frame
⦁
pull both threads from front to back over the cutter
⦁
the threads release automatically as soon as the first stitch is sewn
Changing the presser-foot sole
⦁
raise the needle and the presser foot shaft
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
press the button on the shaft to release the sole
Attaching the presser-foot sole
⦁
place the presser-foot sole under the shaft so that the peg sits under the
opening of the shaft
⦁
lower the presser-foot lifter and the foot sole will click into position
3
The Basic Setting
⦁
is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with
the marking A
⦁
the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work
⦁
for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric
Perfect Stitch Formation
⦁
the interlooping of the threads is in the fabric
Upper thread tension too tight
⦁
the lower thread is pulled more up, i.e. to the right side of the fabric
⦁
to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 3-1
Upper thread tension too loose
⦁
the upper thread is pulled more down, i.e. to the wrong side of the fabric
⦁
to increase the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 5-10
Optimal upper thread tension is set in the factory. For this, Metrosene
threads 100/2 weight (Mettler, Switzerland) are used in the bobbin and
also in the upper thread.
The tension may vary when using other types of thread such as embroidery
thread, and it may therefore be necessary to adjust the tension to suit the fabric
and stitch type.
For example:
Tension
Needle
Metallic thread
approx. 3
90
Monofilament
approx. 2-4
80
Stitch plate
Stitch Plate Markings
⦁
the stitch plate is marked with vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines in mm
and inches
⦁
the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and precise topstitching,
etc.
⦁
the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc.
⦁
the diagonal markings are useful for quilting
⦁
the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between the needle
and the line
⦁
needle insertion point is position «0» (center needle position)
⦁
the measurements are marked to the right and left, measuring from the
center needle position
Removing the Stitch Plate
⦁
raise the presser foot and needle
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
press the stitch plate down at the right back corner B until it flips up
⦁
remove the stitch plate
Replacing the Stitch Plate
⦁
place the stitch plate over the opening A and press down until it clicks into
place
A
B
A
Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can naturally affect the stitch balance
so that the stitch patterns are sewn too close together or not close enough.
This can be remedied with Balance to suit the fabric and produce perfect
results.
Normal position
Denser stitch formation - pulling the stitch pattern closer together
(shorter stitch length)
Finer stitch formation - extending the stitch pattern
(longer stitch length)
Test-sewing
When using decorative stitches, we recommend to test-sew the
stitch pattern on a piece of the project fabric.
If the balance has been adjusted, return it to the normal setting once
sewing is completed!
Button flush with housing = sewing position.
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered.
█
for free-motion sewing (darning, embroidery, quilting, etc.)
Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches.
Let the fabric feed evenly.
With each stitch the feed dog moves forward by one step. The length of this
step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also very short. The fabric
moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. e.g. buttonholes,
satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch length.
Feed-dog drop
Feed-dog and fabric feed
The feed dog works accurately when the foot is level.
If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice-versa, the
feed dog cannot grip and feed the fabric. The fabric might jam.
To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required
behind the needle under the presser foot to level it.
To correct the height in front of the foot, place one or more plates to the right
of the foot close to the needle. Sew until the foot is level again and remove the
plates.
Height Compensation of Uneven Layers
When sewing corners only a small section of the fabric is actually on the feed
dog. Therefore it cannot grip the fabric well.
Sewing Corners
Correct this by placing one or more compensating plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
Important Facts about Sewing Needles
The thread is chosen according to use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and
fabric quality play an important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.
Cotton thread
̶
cotton thread has the advantage of being a natural fiber and therefore is
especially suitable for sewing cotton fabrics
̶
if cotton thread is mercerized, it has a slight sheen
Polyester thread
̶
it has a high tensile strength and is particularly colorfast
̶
polyester thread is more flexible and is recommended where a strong and
elastic seam is required
Thread
Needles, Threads
Correct needle/thread combination
When sewing, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on the
front of the needle.
Too thin thread or too thick needle
The thread has too much clearance in the groove. Skipped stitches and
damage to the thread can occur.
Too thick thread or too fine needle
The thread rubs on the edges of the groove and can get jammed. This can
break the thread.
Needle, Thread and Fabric
Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread.
The correct needle size depends on the selected thread and fabric. The fabric
weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and point form.
WARNING!
Checking the needle condition
The needle condition should be checked and the needle
replaced regularly. A defective needle not only damages the
fabric but also the sewing computer.
Follow these guidelines:
Always replace the needle when starting a new sewing project.
Fabric/Thread
Needle size
Fine fabrics:
Fine thread (darning thread, embroidery thread)
70-75
Medium weight fabrics:
Normal thread
80-90
Heavy weight fabrics:
100, 110, 120
Normal point, slightly rounded
For nearly all natural and synthetic
fabrics (woven and knitted)
Metafil
130/705 H-MET/75-90
Large eye
Sewing with metallic threads
Jersey/Stretch
130/705 H-S, H-SES, H-SUK/70-90
Ball point
Jersey, knits, stretch fabrics
Cordonnet (Topstitching)
130/705 H-N/80-100
Small ball point, long eye
Topstitching with thick thread
Leather
130/705 H-LL, H-LR/90-100
With cutting point
Natural and synthetic leather and plastic
films
Wing needle (hemstitch needle)
130/705 HO/100-120
Wide needle (wing)
Hemstitching
Jeans
130/705 H-J/80-110
Very fine sharp point
Heavy weight fabrics such as jeans,
canvas, overalls
Double wing needle
130/705 H-ZWI-HO/100
Special effects with hemstitch
embroidery
Microtex
130/705 H-M/60-90
Especially fine sharp point
Micro fiber fabrics and silk
Double needle
130/705 H-ZWI/70-100
Needle distance:
1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks,
decorative sewing
Quilting
130/705 H-Q/75-90
Fine sharp point
Straight and topstitching
Triple needle
130/705 H-DRI/80
Needle distance: 3.0
For decorative sewing
Embroidery
130/705 H-SUK/75–90
Large eye
slight ball point
Embroidery on all natural and synthetic
fabrics
Function Buttons on the Sewing Computer
Stitch Selection
⦁
for stitch patterns 1-10:
press the number button of your choice; stitch number and default width
and length settings appear
⦁
press «0» to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole)
⦁
for stitch patterns 1-99 (B 335) / 1-40 (B 325):
press #-button and enter desired stitch number
⦁
for stitch patterns 100 and beyond (B 335):
press #-button twice and enter desired stitch number
Altering stitch width
⦁
left button = narrow the stitch width
⦁
right button = widen the stitch width
⦁
the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly
Altering needle position
⦁
left button = needle to the left
⦁
right button = needle to the right
Altering stitch length
⦁
left button = shortens the length
⦁
right button = elongates the length
Customizing Stitch Settings
press the button
⦁
the sewing computer sews stitch pattern in
reverse until button is released (max. stitch
length 3mm)
Application:
⦁
programs buttonholes
⦁
programs darning length
⦁
for switching when in the straight stitch
securing program
⦁
manual securing (seam begin and end)
continous reverse:
⦁
press button quickly twice
⦁
the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch
in reverse
⦁
press button once to cancel
Start/Stop button
⦁
starts and stops the sewing computer when
operating it without foot control - the
connected foot control is idle
Speed control
⦁
to infinitely adjust the speed control when
operating the sewing computer via start/stop
button
Needle stop
Basic setting is needle stop up (arrow points up)
⦁
press the button
⦁
arrow points down = sewing computer stops
with needle down (needle in the fabric)
⦁
press button again
⦁
arrow points up = sewing computer stops
with needle up
Pattern end
⦁
press the button
⦁
sewing computer stops at the end of a single
stitch pattern or stitch combination (in
Memory)
Mirror image button (B 335 only)
⦁
press the button
⦁
selected stitch pattern will be sewn in mirror
image
#-button
Button for selecting stitch patterns (see p. 23)
3
1
2
DANGER!
Risk of injury from unintentional starting of the
machine.
If the start-stop button is pressed, the machine starts
even when the foot controller is connected.
«clr» (clear) button
⦁
press button = reverts to basic settings
⦁
other selected functions are cleared
Exception:
⦁
needle stop up/down
⦁
press «clr» button twice to clear altered basic
settings of the auto-length buttonhole
Letters, numbers and characters (B 325
block alphabet only)
⦁
press Alphabet button
⦁
one of the fonts will appear on the screen
⦁
select desired font by pressing the alphabet
button
⦁
press the right button to scroll letters and
numbers forwards (A B C ...)
⦁
press the left button to scroll letters and
numbers backwards (@ Ç ? ...)
Alphabet contents
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
Ä Ö Ü Å Æ Œ Ø Ñ È É Ê À Â
1234567890_-.’&? Ç@
Memory
⦁
press the button 2
⦁
«mem» will appear on the display
⦁
the number of available memory spaces
(capacity of 30) and the cursor blink
⦁
use the left 1 and right arrow buttons 3 to
scroll patterns, letters and numbers
⦁
use the right arrow button 3 to save
Temporary altered stitch Memory
⦁
any stitch length or width alterations will be
saved automatically
For example:
⦁
sew an altered stitch, e.g. zig-zag
⦁
select and sew another stitch, e.g. straight
stitch
⦁
return to zig-zag, your alterations are still
active
Return to basic settings
⦁
individual stitch patterns can be reverted to
basic settings manually
⦁
all altered settings are lost when the «clr»-
button is pressed or when the sewing
computer is turned off
Application:
⦁
for all stitch patterns
⦁
particularly useful for switching between
different applications
Press button a bit longer = the needle will go
automatically up or down.
1 Stitch width (basic setting always visible - blinks)
2 Stitch length (basic setting always visible - blinks)
3 Needle position (9 possibilities)
4 Needle stop up/down
5 Number of stitch pattern
6 Number of presser foot (for selected stitch pattern)
7 Satin stitch: dense, short zig-zag stitch
Details of the Screen
2
1
3
4
5
6
7
Memory
Stitch patterns, letters, and numbers can be combined and stored in memory
(capacity of 30 spaces).
It's a long-term memory. The contents remain saved until deleted by the user.
Power cuts or switching off («0») the sewing computer for a longer time will not
affect the saved program. The stitch lengths or widths and the needle position
can be changed at any time.
Individual stitch patterns, letters or numbers can be deleted or overwritten.
Memory buttons
⦁
use the left button 1 to scroll the memory contents backwards
⦁
use the center button 2 to open and close the memory
⦁
use the right button 3 for programming the memory and scrolling the
memory contents forwards
3
1
2
Opening the memory
⦁
press the button 2
⦁
the cursor and the available number of empty memory spaces (e.g. 30)
start to blink, and «mem» appears
⦁
select desired stitch pattern
⦁
the number of the stitch pattern appears on the display
⦁
press the button 3
⦁
the stitch is programmed
⦁
the number of available memory spaces appears
⦁
select the next stitch pattern and program as described, etc.
Programming Practical and Decorative Stitches
Starting to sew
⦁
press the foot control = the sewing computer starts automatically at the
beginning of a stitch pattern combination
⦁
select Pattern End as well = the sewing computer stops automatically at the
end of a stitch pattern combination
The following special programs cannot be saved in memory:
325:
No. 5
Securing program
No. 10
Buttonhole
No. 11
Button sewing-on program
No. 16
Darning program
335:
No. 5
Securing program
No. 10-13 Buttonholes
No. 14
Button sewing-on program
No. 15
Eyelet
No. 22
Darning program
No. 23
Basting stitch
Opening the memory
⦁
press the button 2
⦁
the cursor and the available number of empty memory spaces (e.g. 30)
start to blink, and «mem» appears
⦁
press the Alphabet button 5 to select the alphabet of your choice
⦁
the letter A in the alphabet of your choice appears on the display
⦁
use the arrow buttons 4 and 6 to scroll the alphabet
⦁
select letter/number
⦁
press the button 3 = letter/number is programmed
⦁
the number of available memory spaces appears
⦁
proceed as described to select and program more letters and/or numbers
⦁
when programming more than one word, select the underscore symbol (_)
to program a space between the words
If the stitch length and/or width of letters or numbers have been
altered, the alterations will affect all of them.
If you only want to alter single letters or numbers, this must be done
individually.
Programming Alphabets and Numbers
6
4
5
The contents of the Memory remain saved even when the sewing computer is
disconnected from the electrical supply. They can be recalled at any time.
The contents of the memory will be lost if the sewing computer is switched off
without pressing the button 2 before closing the memory.
Overwriting individual stitch patterns, letters and numbers
⦁
scroll with the right 3 or left 1 button to find the stitch pattern you want to
overwrite
⦁
select new stitch number/letter/number, new stitch length/width or needle
position
⦁
press the right arrow button 3; the stitch pattern is overwritten
Deleting individual stitch patterns, letters and/or numbers
⦁
scroll with the right 3 or left 1 button to find the stitch pattern you want to
delete
⦁
press the «clr» button
⦁
stitch pattern/letter/number is deleted
⦁
press button 2 = contents are saved
⦁
Memory is closed
⦁
«mem» disappears from the display
⦁
press the «clr»-button, keep depressed and press the button 2
⦁
release both buttons
⦁
leave memory by pressing the button 2
⦁
Memory is now completely deleted
Corrections in Memory
Deleting complete Memory contents
Leaving the Memory
3
1
2
All non-stretch fabrics; all straight-stitch
work
Zig-zag stitch
Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such
as overcasting edges. Sewing on elastic
and lace
Vari-overlock
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock
seams and hems
Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending, patching,
reinforcing seams, etc.
Securing program
All types of fabric. Secures the beginning
and end of seams sewn with straight stitch
Triple straight and triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in firm, heavy fabrics
Blindstitch
Most types of fabric. Blind hems; shell
edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics;
decorative seams
Double overlock
All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten
in one operation
Super stretch
For super-stretch fabrics; open seam in all
super-stretch fabrics
Stitch overview
Practical stitches
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Gathering stitch
Most types of fabric. Gathering with
shirring elastic. Butted seams = butting
two pressed edges and sewing together
Stretch overlock
Mediumweight knits, toweling and firm
wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining
seams
Jersey stitch (B 335 only)
Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and
delicate knits. Visible seams and hems.
Mending jersey/interlock
Universal stitch
Firm fabrics such as felt and leather. Flat
joining seams, visible seams, attaching
elastic, decorative seams
Lycra stitch
All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining
seams and hems, reinforced seaming on
underwear
Stretch stitch (B 335 only)
All stretch fabrics; open seam in
sportswear
Darning program
Automatic darning for fine and
mediumweight fabrics
Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics;
visible seams and hems
Examples of Application
ples of Ap
30
Examples of Application
Examples of Application
Zipper sole no. 4
Straight stitch
Preparation
⦁
baste seam closed and clean finish the seam allowance
⦁
baste or pin zipper in place so that fabric folded edges meet over the center
of the zipper
Sewing in the zipper
⦁
open zipper a little
⦁
start sewing from top left
⦁
position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge of the zipper coils
⦁
stop in front of the pull (needle position down), raise the presser foot and
close zipper again
⦁
continue to sew to the base of the zipper (needle position down)
⦁
turn fabric and sew across the seam (needle position down)
⦁
turn fabric again and sew second side of the zipper from bottom to top
Variation: Sew both sides of zipper from bottom to top
⦁
suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain (e.g. velvet)
⦁
prepare zipper as described above
⦁
start sewing in the seam of the zipper end and sew first side from bottom to
top
⦁
sew the second side the same way from bottom to top
To sew around zipper pull
⦁
close the zipper and sew up to about 2” (5cm) away from the pull
⦁
stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot.
Open zipper, pulling the tab below the needle; lower presser foot
and continue to sew
Seam begin
Hold thread firmly when starting to sew = pull fabric slightly to the
back (a frew stitches).
Zipper or fabric is thick or densely woven
For even stitch formation use a 90 -100 needle.
Zippers
Examples of Application
31
Examples of Application
⦁
for all fabrics
⦁
overcasting
⦁
elastic seams
⦁
decorate sewing
Overcasting edges
⦁
guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot
⦁
do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch
⦁
needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into the air on the
other side
⦁
the edge should lie flat and not roll
⦁
use a fine darning thread for lightweight fabric
Satin stitch
⦁
dense, short zig-zag stitch (stitch length 0.5 – 0.7mm)
⦁
use satin stitch for appliqué, embroidery, etc.
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
A Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch width
B Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch length
C Edge neatened with zig-zag stitch
Darning
Zig-zag
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
Darning program
Quick darning of holes or worn areas
Replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics.
Darning with Reverse pattern sole no. 1 (auto stitch counter)
⦁
insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
⦁
sew the first vertical row and stop the sewing computer
⦁
press the Quick reverse button to program the length
⦁
complete Darning program; the sewing computer stops automatically
⦁
clear the program by pressing the «clr» button
Move project accordingly for a wider and/or longer darning area.
Darning with the Buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
⦁
use for small tears and damaged areas, not more than 3cm (1 1/4”) long
⦁
same procedure as with foot no. 1
Reinforcement
Use fine fabric or (adhesive) interlining as a backing.
Preparation
Hoop fabric into darning ring to prevent puckering.
B
A
C
Examples of Application
ples of Ap
32
Examples of Application
Overlock sole no. 2
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Vari-overlock stitch
The Overlock sole no. 2 is specifically designed for overlock stitching. The pin
on the foot allows for more thread in each stitch so that the elasticity of the
seam is maintained.
Closed seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock.
Sewing
⦁
guide the open edge along the pin on the sole
⦁
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
2
Overlock sole no. 2
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Double overlock stitch
Closed seam
Overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys.
Sewing
guide the open edge along the pin on the sole.
Knits and jersey
Use a new Jersey needle to prevent damaging the loops.
Sewing stretch fabrics
If neccessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point
slides between the fibers.
Vari overlock
Double Overlock
Examples of Application
33
Examples of Application
Overlock sole no. 2
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Vari-overlock stitch
For all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey.
Preparation
⦁
fold ribbing in half and press
⦁
with right sides together, pin and baste ribbing to neckline
Sewing
⦁
sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
⦁
guide the open edge along the pin on the sole
⦁
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
Ribbing with Overlock Stitch
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Honeycomb stitch
For all firm knits, especially cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey.
Preparation
Press (and baste if required) edge 1cm (3/8") to wrong side.
Sewing
⦁
sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge
⦁
trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing - great aid
when sewing curves (necklines/armholes).
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing - great aid
when sewing curves (necklines/armholes).
Honeycomb Stitch Edges
Examples of Application
ples of Ap
34
Examples of Application
5
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Securing program
⦁
for all fabrics
⦁
secures beginning and end of seam
Sewing long seams
⦁
quicker securing at beginning and end of seam
⦁
even securing by defined stitch count
Starting to sew
⦁
the sewing computer secures seam automatically (5 stitches forward,
5 stitches reverse)
⦁
then it continues with straight-stitch forward
Ending the seam
⦁
press the Quick reverse button on head frame; the sewing computer
secures automatically (5 stitches reverse, 5 stitches forward)
⦁
the sewing computer stops automatically when securing is complete
Securing Stitch
Blind hem
Blindstitch sole no. 5
Blindstitch
For invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and blended fabrics.
Preparation
⦁
finish raw edges
⦁
fold the hem and baste or pin in place
⦁
fold the fabric back over the right side of the fabric to expose the finished
lower edge (see drawing)
⦁
place the work under the sole with the guide positioned against the folded-
back fabric
Sewing
⦁
the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold (as when hand blind-
stitching)
⦁
adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric thickness
⦁
after sewing about 4” (10cm), check both sides of fabric and adjust width
again if necessary
⦁
the metal guide on the sole of the blindstitch sole can be adjusted sideways
by turning the screw on the right
right side of fabric
wrong side of
fabric
wrong side of
fabric
Fine stitch-width adjustment
Guide the folded edge evenly along the metal guide on the sole =
even depth.
Thread tension for sewing buttonholes
⦁
thread the bobbin thread through the finger A of the bobbin case = the
bobbin thread tension is a little tighter
⦁
this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly rounded
appearance
⦁
the buttonhole looks more attractive
⦁
use cording to reinforce buttonholes and enhance their appearance (see
p. 37)
Buttonholes are not only practical closures, they can also be used to
decorative effect
Select the buttonhole of your choice; the following appears on the screen:
1 Buttonhole number
2 Buttonhole symbol (blinks)
3 Presser foot indicator
A
1
3
2
Standard buttonhole
For fine to mediumweight woven
fabrics, blouses, shirts, trousers,
bedlinens, etc.
Stretch buttonhole (B 335 only)
All stretch fabrics made from cotton,
wool, silk and synthetic fibers
Keyhole buttonhole (B 335 only)
Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics.
Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear,
etc.
Buttonholes
Buttonhole Summary
Everything you need to know about buttonholes
Straight-stitch buttonhole (B 335 only)
Stay-stitch program for bound buttonholes (foot
no. 3A) or pocket openings (foot no. 3)
Button sewing-on program
For buttons with 2 and 4 holes
Straight-stitch eyelet (B 335 only)
Openings for cords and narrow ribbons, decorative
work
Marking the length of manual buttonholes
⦁
mark the buttonhole length in the desired position
⦁
use Buttonhole sole no. 3
Marking the length of automatic buttonholes (with buttonhole foot with
slide no. 3A only)
⦁
mark the length of just one buttonhole
⦁
after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all subsequent buttonholes
is automatically programmed
⦁
mark only the beginning of all subsequent buttonholes
⦁
use Automatic buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
Marking the length of keyhole buttonholes
⦁
mark the bead length only
⦁
the correct length eye will be added when the buttonhole is sewn
Test-sewing
⦁
always sew a test sample on the fabric with stabilizer you intend to use
⦁
select the buttonhole type you intend to use
⦁
sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (horizontal or
vertical, with or against the grain)
⦁
cut the buttonhole open
⦁
push the button through
⦁
adjust the buttonhole length if necessary
To adjust the bead width :
⦁
alter the stitch width
Altering the stitch length :
⦁
stitch length adjustments affect both buttonhole beads (spacing between
the stitches)
⦁
reprogram the buttonhole length after changing the stitch length
Balance for automatic and manual buttonholes
Any balance alterations to the manual and auto-length buttonholes affect both
beads identically because they are sewn in the same direction.
If a buttonhole is sewn at right angles to the
fabric edge/fold, we recommend the use of
the height compensating plates for
buttonholes (available as optional accessory).
Place the plates from the back between fabric
and bottom of slide foot up to the thick part of
the fabric and push to front.
When all buttonholes have been sewn,
return balance to the normal setting!
use cording to reinforce buttonholes and enhance their appearance
⦁
the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole that is most
subject to wear = where button is sewn on
⦁
position the work accordingly
Ideal cords
⦁
Perle cotton no. 8
⦁
strong hand-sewing thread
⦁
fine crochet yarn
Hooking the cord in the buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
⦁
insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
⦁
raise the presser foot
⦁
guide the cord under the foot to the right
⦁
hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot
⦁
guide the cord back to the front under the foot to the left
⦁
pull the cord ends into the slits
Sewing
⦁
sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, do not hold the cord
⦁
the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Hooking the cord in the buttonhole sole no. 3
⦁
insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
⦁
presser foot is raised
⦁
hook the cord over the center pin on the front of the foot
⦁
place both ends of the cord in their respective grooves on the sole of the
foot and pull them to the back
⦁
lower the presser foot
Cutting buttonholes open with the seam ripper
⦁
using the seam ripper, cut from the ends towards the middle
Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory)
⦁
place the fabric on the wood
⦁
place the cutter in the centre of the buttonhole
⦁
press down on the cutter with your hand or a hammer
Securing the cord
⦁
pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of
it
⦁
pull the ends of the cord through to wrong side of the fabric, using a hand
stitching-needle
⦁
knot or secure with stitches
Sewing
⦁
sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, do not hold the cord
⦁
the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
It might be useful to secure the bartack with an extra pin
when working short buttonholes.
Automatic standard buttonhole with auto-length
Buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
Automatic standard buttonhole
The lens on Buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A automatically registers the length
of the buttonhole for exact duplication.
►
the active step blinks on the screen
5
4
3
2
1
Programming the standard buttonhole
1. sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
►
«auto» and the presser foot no. 3A appears on the display = buttonhole
length is programmed
the sewing computer sews the following automatically:
2. straight stitches in reverse
3. the first bartack
4. the second bead forwards
5. the second bartack and securing stitches
⦁
the sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole
begin
Auto-buttonhole
⦁
all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length (no
need to press the Quick reverse button)
⦁
clear the program by pressing the «clr» button
⦁
Saving programmed buttonholes in long-term memory (see p. 41)
Sewing speed
⦁
sew at moderate speed for best results
⦁
sew all buttonholes at the same speed for a consistent bead
density
WARNING!
The slide foot must lie perfectly flat on the fabric! If the slide
foot rests on a seam allowance, the length cannot be measured
accurately.
When any automatic buttonhole is selected, presser foot no. 3 is
indicated on the screen.
Buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
Automatic keyhole buttonhole
Automatic keyhole buttonhole with auto-length
Programming the buttonhole
1. sew the straight stitch forward, stop the sewing computer
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
►
«auto» and presser foot no. 3A appears on the screen = buttonhole
length is programmed
2. the sewing computer automatically sews the eye
3. the first bead in reverse
4. straight stitches forwards
5. the second bead in reverse
6. the bartack and securing stitches
⦁
the sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole
begin
Auto-buttonhole
⦁
all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length (no
need to press the Quick reverse button)
⦁
clear the program by pressing the «clr» button
⦁
Saving programmed buttonholes in long-term memory (see p. 41)
5
4
3
2
1
6
Exact duplicates
The auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the
same length as the previous one.
Double-sewn keyhole buttonholes
⦁
keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics - use a
longer stitch length for the first run
⦁
after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work
⦁
reduce the stitch length and tap the foot control once to begin
sewing again
Buttonhole sole no. 3
Preparation
⦁
select the desired buttonhole
⦁
display shows:
⦁
the number of the selected buttonhole
⦁
Buttonhole foot no. 3
⦁
the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks on the display)
⦁
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case
Manual buttonhole (all types)
Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for
repairing existing buttonholes.
The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole.
Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
1. sew the bead up to the end of the length marking
⦁
stop the sewing computer
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
2. sew reverse straight-stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch of
the bead (buttonhole begin)
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
3. sew the top bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing computer
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
4. sew the bottom bartack and securing stitches
4
3
1
2
Manual keyhole buttonhole
1. sew straight-stitch forwards, stop the sewing computer
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
2. sew the eye and the first bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the
first stitch of the bead (buttonhole begin)
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
3. sew straight-stitch forwards and stop the sewing computer at the keyhole
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
4. sew the second bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch
of the bead (buttonhole begin)
⦁
press the Quick reverse button
5. sew bartack and securing stitches
3
4
5
2
1
Sew both beads at the same speed.
Saving programmed buttonholes in long-term memory
⦁
after programming press the button 3
⦁
the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory
Recalling saved buttonhole
Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the
sewing computer has been disconnected.
⦁
select the desired buttonhole type
⦁
press the button 2
⦁
sew the programmed buttonhole
⦁
only one length per buttonhole can be saved. Saving a new length with the
button 3 will overwrite the previously saved buttonhole length
Darning foot no. 9 (optional accessory)
Button sew-on foot no. 18 (optional accessory)
Sews buttons with 2 or 4 holes.
Sewing on buttons
⦁
buttons sewn on for decorative purposes only are stitched without a thread
shank
⦁
the length of the shank (= thread between button and fabric) can be made
shorter or longer as required with foot no. 18
Sewing on buttons with Darning foot no. 9
⦁
select Button sew-on program
⦁
check distances between holes with the handwheel and adjust stitch width
if necessary
⦁
sew the securing stitches; hold the threads when starting to sew
⦁
sew program
⦁
sewing computer stops automatically when program is completed and is
ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
⦁
the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For secure results
⦁
pull both bobbin thread ends until the ends of the upper thread are visible
on the wrong side (knot if required)
⦁
trim thread ends
Buttonhole in Long-Term Memory
With Buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A only
Button sewing-on program
Sewing on buttons with foot no. 18
⦁
set the shank length with the screw on the foot
⦁
select Button sewing-on program and continue as with foot no. 9
Beginning and ending threads
⦁
the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For secure results
⦁
pull both bobbin thread ends until the ends of the upper thread are visible
on the wrong side (knot if required)
⦁
trim thread ends
Sewing 4-hole button
⦁
sew the front holes
⦁
carefully move the button forward
⦁
sew the back holes with the same program
2
1
3
Handlook quilting stitch
Reverse pattern sole no. 1
Handlook quilting stitch
Suitable for all fabrics and work which should look «hand sewn».
Test-sewing
⦁
the bobbin thread must come through to the right side
⦁
1 stitch is visible (bobbin thread)
⦁
1 stitch is invisible (monofilament) = hand-look effect
Upper thread tension
Depending on the fabric = increase the tension (6-9).
Balance
Adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary.
Perfect corners
⦁
activate Pattern end and Needle stop down and pivot the work
⦁
when pivoting make sure that the fabric does not become
distorted
Monofilament breaks
⦁
sew more slowly
⦁
reduce upper thread tension slightly
Darning foot no. 9 (optional accessory)
Basting stitch
⦁
for all work which requires a very long stitch
⦁
for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc.
⦁
temporary joining
⦁
easy to remove
Preparation
⦁
lower the feed-dog
⦁
pin work at a right angle to basting direction to prevent the layers from
slipping
Basting
⦁
position work under the presser foot and sew one stitch; hold threads when
starting to sew
⦁
pull work from behind to the required length of the stitch
⦁
sew one stitch and repeat the procedure
Securing/fixing the thread
Sew a few short basting stitches at the beginning and end of a
seam.
Thread
Use a fine darning thread for basting as it is easier to remove.
More stitches
Basting stitch
Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer
Wipe with a damp cloth.
Feed-dog area
Clean the sewing computer after every use - remove any lint from under the
stitch plate and in the hook area.
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
pull out plug from electrical outlet
⦁
remove presser foot and needle
⦁
open the free arm cover
⦁
press the stitch plate down at the back right corner, lift and remove
⦁
clean the area with the lint brush
⦁
replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
pull out plug from electrical outlet
⦁
remove the bobbin case
⦁
push the release lever to the left
⦁
let down the locking lever and the black hook race cover
⦁
remove the hook
⦁
clean the hook race with a cloth or brush, never use a sharp instrument
⦁
replace the hook, turning the handwheel if necessary until the hook driver
is on the left
⦁
close the hook race cover and secure with the locking lever, the locking pin
must engage
⦁
check by turning the handwheel
⦁
insert the bobbin case
Lubricating
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
pull out plug from electrical outlet
⦁
squeeze 1 or 2 drops of oil into the hook race
⦁
run the sewing computer for a short time without thread to prevent oil
soiling your work
WARNING!
Disconnect plug from the socket before cleaning or lubricating!
WARNING!
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any type of solvent to
clean the sewing computer!
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following.
Check whether:
⦁ the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
⦁ the needle is inserted correctly with the flat side to the back
⦁ the needle size is correct; see „Overview Needles“ p. 22
⦁ the needle tip and shaft are undamaged
⦁ the sewing computer is clean - brush out any thread lint
⦁ the hook race is clean
⦁ any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring
Fault
Uneven stitch
formation
Skipped stitches
Upper thread
breaks
Lower thread
breaks
Needle breaks
Thread is caught
in the area of the
take-up lever
Faulty stitching
Sewing computer
Cause
⦁
Upper thread too tight/too slack
⦁
Needle blunt or bent, poor-quality
needle
⦁
Needle inserted incorrectly
⦁
Poor-quality thread
⦁
Needle/thread combination is incorrect
⦁
Incorrectly threaded
⦁
Incorrect needle system
⦁
Needle blunt or bent, poor-quality
needle
⦁
Needle inserted incorrectly
⦁
Incorrect needle point
⦁
Upper thread tension too tight
⦁
Incorrectly threaded
⦁
Poor-quality or old thread
⦁
Stitch plate or hook tip damaged
⦁
Lower thread tension too tight
⦁
Stitch hole in the stitch plate damaged
⦁
Needle blunt or bent
⦁
Needle not correctly inserted
⦁
Fabric was pulled
⦁
Fabric was pushed when thick material
used
⦁
Poor-quality thread, unevenly wound
or knotted
⦁
Upper thread breaks
⦁
Remnants of thread between the
tension discs
⦁
Incorrectly threaded
⦁
Remnants of thread under the bobbin
case spring
⦁
Sewing computer fails to run or runs
slowly
Repair
⦁
Reduce/increase upper thread tension
⦁
Use new, high-quality needle (BERNINA)
⦁
The flat side of the shank must be to the back
⦁
Use quality threads (Isacord, Mettler, Gütermann)
⦁
Match the needle to the thread size
⦁
Check upper thread threading path/lower thread threading
path
⦁
Use needle system 130/705 H
⦁
Use new, good quality needles
⦁
Insert needle as far up as it will go
⦁
Match the needle type to the fabric
⦁
Reduce upper thread tension
⦁
Check upper thread threading path
⦁
Use high-quality thread
⦁
Have sewing computer checked by a specialized dealer
⦁
Reduce lower thread tension
⦁
Have sewing computer checked by a specialized dealer
⦁
Use new needle
⦁
Tighten the needle clamp screw
⦁
Do not pull the fabric during sewing
⦁
Use the correct presser foot for thick material (e.g. Jeans foot
no. 8) (optional accessory), use height compensating tool
when sewing over a thick seam
⦁
Use high-quality thread
If the upper thread breaks and the thread is trapped in the area
of the take-up lever, proceed as follows:
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
remove the screw on the headframe with the hex key
⦁
turn headframe cover slightly to the left, then slide it upwards
⦁
remove remnants of thread
⦁
attach headframe and retighten screw
⦁
Fold a piece of thin fabric and slide the folded edge (not the
raw edges) between the thread tension discs, moving the
fabric back and forth to clean the right and left side of the
thread tension
⦁
Check upper and lower thread
⦁
Carefully remove any thread remnants from under the spring
⦁
Plug not properly inserted
⦁
power switch to «0» (off)
⦁
Sewing computer has been standing in a cold room
Button sewing-on program
12
Gathering stitch
13
Stretch overlock
14
Universal stitch
15
Lycra stitch
16
Darning program
17
Honeycomb stitch
18-37 Decorative stitches
38-40 Quilting stitches
11
Stretch buttonhole
12
Keyhole buttonhole
13
Straight-stitch buttonhole
14
Button sewing-on program
15
Straight-stitch eyelet
16
Gathering stitch
17
Stretch overlock
18
Jersey stitch
19
Universal stitch
20
Lycra stitch
21
Stretch stitch
22
Darning program
23
Basting stitch
24
Honeycomb stitch
25-103 Decorative stitches
104-115 Quilting stitches
Stitch-Pattern Summary
BERNINA 325
BERNINA 335
Scope of delivery
6
●
Standard accessory
6
Alphabet contents
24
Alphabets/characters
●
Changing the size
27
●
Combining
27
●
Selecting
24, 27
●
Sewing
27
Automatic buttonhole
●
Programming
38, 39
Automatic functions
●
Darning
31
●
Needle stop
9, 24, 25
●
Pattern end
9, 24
B
Balance
●
Buttonholes
36
●
Decorative stitches
18
Basting
42
Blindstitch
●
Blindstitch sole
7
●
Practical stitch
34
Bobbin
●
Inserting
12
●
Removing/inserting
12
Bobbin Case
●
Inserting
13
●
Removing
13
Buttonhole
●
4-steps
40
●
5-steps
40
●
Automatic
38, 39
●
Balance
36
●
Cutting open
37
●
Important information
35
●
Long Term Memory
41
●
Manual
40
●
Programming
38
●
Sole
7
●
Stabilizers
37
●
Summary
35
Button sewing-on program
35, 41
C
Carrying handle
9
Change
●
Lettering size
27
●
Programmed buttonhole
41
●
Sewing speed
10, 24
●
Stitch pattern
26
●
Stitch width and lenght
23
●
Thread tension
17, 35
Cleaning
●
Feed dog
43
●
Hook
43
●
Screen
43
●
Sewing computer
43
Combining
●
Alphabets
27
●
Correcting
28
●
Deleting
28
●
Practical-/decorative stitches
26
●
Saving
24, 25
Cording
●
Buttonhole
37
D
Darning
29, 31
Decorative stitches
●
Summary
45
Deleting
●
«clr» (clear) button
24
●
Combinations
28
●
Stitch pattern
28
Details
●
Accessory
6
●
Sewing computer
8
Double needle
●
For decorative sewing
22
●
Threading
15
Dust cover
6
E
External function buttons
9, 23, 24
F
Fabric
●
Feed
19
●
Needle and thread
21
Fabric feed
19
Feed dog
●
Fabric feed
19
●
Raise/lower the presser foot
19
●
Raising/lowering the feed-dog
19
Function Buttons on the Sewing Computer
23
H
Handwheel
9
Height compensating tool
6, 20
Height Compensation of Uneven Layers
20
Hem
●
Blind hem
34
K
Knee lifter
9, 11
L
LED sewing light
10
Lettering size
27
Long Term Memory
25, 41
●
Correcting
28
●
Deleting contents
28
●
Leaving
28
●
Opening
26, 27
●
Pattern combilation
26
Lower thread
●
Winding
12
Lubricating
43
M
Main power switch
9
Maintenance and troubleshooting
●
Cleaning, maintenance
43
●
Maintenance
43
●
Problem solving
44
Manual threading
●
Double needle
15
●
Lower thread
12
●
Triple needle
15
●
Upper thread
14
Mirror-image function
●
Left/right (B 335 only)
24
N
Needle
●
Altering the needle position
23
●
Changing
16
●
Double and triple needles
15, 22
●
Important information
21
●
In standard accessories
6
●
Needle stop up/down
24
●
Needle summary
22
●
Needle/thread combination
21
●
Position buttons
23
●
Threading
14
Needle clamp
9
Needle stop
9, 24
Needle threader
14
Numbers
24
●
Programming
27
O
Overlock
●
Seam
32
●
Sole
7
●
Stitches
29
Overwriting
28
P
Pattern end
24
Permanent reverse Sewing
24
Power cable
●
Connection
9
Practical and decorative stitches
●
Programming
26
Practical stitches
●
Brief Description
29
●
Customizing Stitch Settings
23
●
Summary
29
Presser foot sole
●
Changing
16
●
Display
25
●
Presser feet summary
7
●
Raise/lower the presser foot
9
Problem solving
44
Programming
●
Alphabet and Numbers
27
●
Practical and decorative stitches
26
Q
Quick reverse
●
Button
9
●
Permanent reverse sewing
24
Quilting
●
Stitches
42, 45
R
Running stitch
29
Scope of delivery
6
Screen
●
Cleaning
43
●
Summary
25
Select
●
Alphabets
24, 27
●
Buttonholes
35
●
Decorative stitches
45
●
Practical stitches
29
●
Quilt stitches
45
●
Single pattern
23
●
Stitch pattern
24, 45
Servicing
43
Sewing
●
Balance
18
●
Basic settings
24
●
Combinations
26
●
Corners
20
●
Function buttons
23
●
Reverse sewing/Backstepping
24
●
Stitchcategory
45
●
With height compensation plates
20
Sewing Corners
20
Sewing light LED
10
Sewing on buttons
41
Sewing speed
10, 24
Single pattern
●
Changing in pattern combination
28
●
Deleting
28
●
Securing
24
●
Selection by number
23
Slide-on table
9, 10
Speed control
9, 24
Spool discs
6
Spool pin
11
Start/Stop button
24
Stitchcategory
45
Stitch pattern
●
Buttonholes
35, 45
●
Decorative stitches
45
●
Practical stitches
29
●
Quilt stitches
45
●
Summary
45
Stitch pattern selection
●
By number
23
Stitch plate
●
Attaching/removing
17
●
Display
25
Stitch width and lenght
23
Straight stitch
29
Summary
●
Buttonhole
35
●
Needles
22
●
Practical stitches
29
●
Presser feet soles
7
●
Screen
25
●
Sewing computer
8
●
Stitches
29
●
Stitch pattern
45
T
Temporary altered stitch Memory
24
Thread
●
General facts
21
●
Needle/fabric/thread combination
21
Thread cutter
●
For bobbin winder
9, 12
●
Lower thread
9, 13
●
On Head Frame
9, 16
Thread guide
9
Thread take-up cover
9, 14
Thread tension
9, 17
Triple needle
15, 22
Triple Straight Stitch
29
Troubleshooting
44
U
Upper thread
●
Breaks
44
●
Tension
17
●
Threading
14
W
Winder
●
Pre-tension
9
●
Switching on/interrupt
9
BERNINA International AG
Graphics
www.sculpt.ch
Fotos
Patrice Heilmann, CH-Winterthur
Copyright
2018 BERNINA International AG, CH-Steckborn
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's
features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and
alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to
country.
2018-10 EN 1038145.00C.04
Imprint