Pfaff 6230 Instruction Manual
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Safety rules
For the United Kingdom only
The leads must definitely not be connected
to the safety lead terminal I nor to a plug
with three pins.
The wires in the mains lead are coloured
according to the following code:
Neutral
Live
As the colours of the wires in the mains lead
of this appliance may not correspond with the
colour coding of the terminals in your plug.
proceed as follows:
The wire which is coloured blue must be con
nected to the terminal which is marked with
the lettter N or coloured black.
The wire which is coloured brown must be
connected to the terminal which is marked
with the letter L or coloured red.
Cut-off mains plugs are definitely not to be
used, but disposed of immediately. Defective
mains leads must be replaced completely.
Only 3 A spare fuses must be used as
approved by ASTA according to BS 1362 and
the fuse cover must be marked 3 A or with
the corresponding colour code.
The plug must never be used without fuse
cover. Spare fuse covers are available from
electrical suppliers or the PFAFF agencies.
Please also observe the general safety notes
on page 2.
nfinIisfctentnPaZn>
I
I
I
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Blue:
Brown:
Parts of the sewing machine (Models 6230 and 6150)
(1)
Key for ,,slow sewing” (Model 6230)
(2)
Key for ,,needle down position” (Model 6230)
(3)
Key for ,,tacking” (Model 6230)
(4)
Carrying handle
(5)
Hand-wheel
(6)
Hand-wheel release disk
(7)
Fancy stitch knob
(8)
Main switch
(9)
Connection socket ,,mains cord” (Model 6230)
Connection socket ,,foot control with mains cord” (Model 6150)
(10)
Touch controls
(11)
Stitch length knob
(1 2)
Connection socket ,,foot control” (Model 6230)
(13)
Base plate
(14)
Detachable work support
(1 5)
Sewing foot holder with sewing foot
(16)
Needle threader
(17)
Threading slit
(1 8)
Needle thread tension
(19)
Take-up lever
(20)
Presser bar lifter
(21)
Key for ,,reverse sewing”
(22)
Needle holder with fixing screw
(23)
Dual feed (top feed)
(24)
Reel holder with unwinding disk
(25)
Second spare reel holder
(26)
Lid with program table
(27)
Bobbin winder
(28)
Hook cover
(29)
Free arm
(30)
Thread trimmer
(31)
Sewing lamp (max. 15 watt)
(32)
Thread guide
(33)
Needle plate
Important safety instructions
For the United States only
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for
HOUSEHOLD use only. When you use an electric appliance,
basic safety precautions should always be adhered to as fol
lows: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1
The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this
appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning it.
2. Always unplug before relamping.
Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts
3.
Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4
Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink.
Do
not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
WARNING ro reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or Injury to persons:
I
Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is
used by or near children
2.
Use this sewing machine only for ifs intended use as described in this manual.
Use only
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3
Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working pro
perly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return the appliance to the
nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical
adlustment
4
Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings
of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose
cloth.
5
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6
Do not use outdoors.
7.
Do not operate where aerosol Isprayl products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8.
To disconnect, turn all controls to off (.01 position, then remove plug from outlet.
9.
Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be
blocked.
10
Do not unplug by pulling on cord.
To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord
11
Keep fingers away from all moving parts
Special care is required around the sewing
machine needle.
1 2. Always use the proper needle plate
The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
1 3.
Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only.
14
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle, causing it to break
1 5
Switch the sewing machine off l,.0”( when making any adjustments in the needle ai’ea, such
as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
1 6.
Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual
17.
Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel
Do not allow plug to whip when rewinding.
Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Notes on safety
Notes on safety for domestic sewing
machines according to DIN 57 700, Section
28 or IEC 335, Section 28.
1. The user must exercise adequate caution
with regard to the up and down moving
of the needle and constantly observe the
sewing area during work.
2. When leaving the machine, during
maintenance work or when changing
mechanical parts or accessories,
always disconnect the machine from
the mains by pulling out the mains
plug.
3.
The maximum permissible wattage for the
sewing lamp is 15 Watts.
4. The tension of the drive belt must only
be adjusted by a Pfaff mechanic.
5.
The machine must be put into operation
according to the indications on the
specification plate.
6.
Do not place any objects in openings on
the machine.
7.
Do not use the sewing machine if:
— there is visible damage.
its function is disturbed,
— it is wet, e.g. with condensation.
8.
Do not pull the mains plug out of the
socket by its cord.
9.
If this appliance is used for another pur
pose than intended or if it is wrongly ope
rated, we will not accept any liability for
any damage caused.
10.
To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not
open the machine. There are no paris
inside the machine which the user can
repair. This is solely the responsibility
of our qualified service staff.
11.
Be sure to use only original PFAFF
parts.
Environment
The recommended environment is: Ambient
temperature 10° C to 40° C, Humidity 20% to
80%.
This sewing machine is a high-quality electro
nic-mechanical appliance; it is a machine for
supervised use in the home. It should be ope
rated in such a way that it is not subjected to:
dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, sta
tic electricity, heat-producing objects, cor
rosive chemicals or liquids.
For ventilation purposes the machine must be
used on a free surface, which is both firm and
even.
Treatment
Always protect the machine against damage
by hitting or dropping.
Cleaning
Housing:
To clean the housing, use a dry, clean and soft
cloth which is free of fluff.
To remove any
stubborn dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol or
paraffin.
Please Note!
Do not use any insecticides or chemical pro
ducts such as petrol lgasl or thin chemicals
for cleaning the housing.
2
— Sewing by puchbutton
control
—
Congratulations! You have bought a high-quality
product that offers unique advantages. Your new
sewing machine can take any material in its stride
and will sew through thick and thin for you.
It features the very latest in design and technology
and this instruction book is Just as uncomplicated as
your PFAFF sewing machine
If you now take time enough to study the instruction
book nothing can go wrong
After all this is the only way to learn all the things
the machine can do and to make full use of them
If you have any further questions, that is no prob
lem! Your PFAFF dealer will be at your service with
any help or advice you need.
So now you can get started! We wish you many
enjoyable hours of creating your fashion ideas.
3
Accessories and needles
.
72
— 81
Accessory compartment
14
Applique
66
Appliqué foot
78
Bias tape binder
.
.
.
.
77
Blind stitch
38
Bobbin case.
.
18, 19
Bobbin thread tension
.
.
.
19
Bobbin winding
.
.
.
15
—
1 7
Borders
.
.
.
.
.
.
62. 63, 64
Buttonholes
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
46, 47
Changing the needle
26
Changing the needle plate
.
.
.
84
Changing the sewing foot
23
Cleaning and oiling
.
.
.
.
84
Closed overlock stitch
.
.
.
.
42
Detachable work support
14
Cording foot
.
.
.
76
Cording foot
.
.
78
Covering stitches
.
.
.
.
44. 45
Darning
.
.
.
.
51
— 53
Darning tears
.
.
.
53
Darning with elastic stitch
52. 53
Darning with straight stitch
.
.
.
51
Decorative stitches
.
.
61
— 64
Dual fabric feed
24, 25
Elastic stitch
.
41
Elastic stitches
40
43
Electrical connection
.
12, 13
Eyelet embroidery
.
68
Fancy elastic knob.
.
30
Fancy elastic stitch
.
.
.
.
45
Fancy stitch table
.
.
10
Faults.
.
.
.
86
Foot control
.
.
.
.
1 3
Foot control
.
.
.
.
13
Free arm.
.
.
.
14
Fringe foot
79
Function keys
.
.
31
Gathering foot
.
.
75
Gathering with elastic thread
.
50
Gathering with straight stitch
.
49
General sewing aids
.
.
.
.
.
.
35
Hand wheel release disk
.
.
1 5
Hem with the twin needle
.
48
Hemstitching
.
.
.
.
.
-
69
Honeycomb stitch
.
.
.
.
41
Inserting bobbin
.
.
.
16
Inserting patches
.
.
.
52
Inserting zippers
54, 55
Lace work
.
57
Lamp
.
.
.
.
.
.
85
Lap feller
75
Left needle position
.
36
Linen buttonhole
47
Linen buttonhole with gimp thread
.
.
47
4
Lowering the feed dog
Main switch
Maintenance and faults
Monograms
Multi4oot gathering foot.
Needle chart
Needle position.
Needle thread tension
Needle threader
Nonelastic stitches
-
Oiling
.
Open overlock stitch
Overlock stitches
Pattern length
.
Pattern width
Practical sewing
Presser bar litter
Puchbutton control
Pulling up the bobbin thread
Pullover stitch
.
.
.
-
Quilting
.....
Reverse sewing.
Richelieu.........
Right needle position
Roll hemming
Safety notes
Serging with the overlock foot
Serging with zigzag stitch
Setting stretch stitch
.
Setting utility stitches.
Sewing chart
Sewing feet lspecial accessories(
Sewing feet (standard accessories(
Sewing lamp
Sewing on buttons
Sewing problems
.
.
Shell edging
Slow sewing
Smocking
.
.
.
Special accessory table
Stitch density
.
Stitch length control
Straight stitch
j
Stretch triple straight stitch.
Stretch triple zigzag stitch
Tacking
.
J
Thread tension
Thread trimmer
Threading
.
.
Threading the needle thread
Threading the sewing machine.
Top feed.
.
.
.
Topstitching.
Twin needle.
Utility stitch chart
.
.
Winding from a second reel holder
Zigzag stitch
13
84—86
65
77
84
28,61
29,61
35—58
22
22
28
66
36
56
37
34,60
74
85
39
86
58
74
28
28
36
40
20
20
6—9
17
Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)
D
E
F
G
HI
H
HD
ID
IF
K
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,
With these programs the stitch length can be set as required between 0 and 6 mm with the
stitch length knob (11).
Program
Description
Application
A/B/C
Buttonholes
Standard buttonholes e.g. for blouses
or bedclothes
D/E/F
Zigzag stitch
For serging and appliqué work.
in various widths
Straight stitch,
For all sewing and topstitching work requiring
needle position, left
left needle position
G
Straight stitch,
For all straight stitch and topstitch sewing jobs,
needle position, center
up to 6 mm stitch length
HI
Straight stitch,
For all sewing and topstitching jobs requiring
needle position, right
a right needle position
H
Blind stitch, wide
For securing seams invisibly on stronger fabrics
HD
Blind stitch, narrow
For securing seams invisibly on finer materials
I
Greek stitch, wide
A classical, decorative stitch
i.e. for the borders
on handkerchiefs
ID
Viennese stitch with
Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles
narrow zigzag
IF
Viennese stitch with
Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles
wide zigzag
1<
Shell edging stitch, wide
For decorative hem edges on light fabrics i.e.
underwear
6
Utility stitch table (non-elastic stitches)
KU
KG
L
LC
LU
LF
LI
M
ME
MF
MG
Program
Description
Application
KD
Elastic edge seam
For securing seams of edges that do not fray
very much
KG
Shelledging stitch
For decorative hems on light fabrics e.g.
for underwear
L
Fancy elastic stitch
For overstitching two buttjoined plies
LC
Emperor stitch
A dainty, decorative stitch
LU
King stitch
A classical, decorative stitch for embroidering
borders
LF
Emperor stitch, narrow
A dainty, decorative stitch
LI
Greek stitch, narrow
A classical, decorative stitch
M
Elastic stitch
For sewing on rubber tape, darning tears and
inserting patches
ME
Elastic blind stitch
For securing seams invisibly and serging
an edge at the same time
— particularly for light,
elastic fabric
MF
Elastic blind stitch
For securing seams invisibly and serging
an edge at the same time
— particularly for
strong elastic fabric
MG
Scallop stitch
A classical decorative stitch for embroidered
borders
7
Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)
D
E
F
G
Hi
I
H
HO
I HG
I
ID
IF
I
IG
I
K
I
KO
I
KGI KM
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With these programs the stitch length knob (11) is turned right to the edge in the grey area i.e.
,,stretch”.
Program
Description
Application
D/E/F
Stretch triple zigzag stitch
For sewing elastic tape onto elastic materials
in various widths
Stretch triple straight stitch,
For stretch seams requiring a left needle positio
needle position, left
G
Stretch triple straight stitch,
For stretch seams e.g. step seams as well
needle position, center
as seams in sportswear and working garments
Hi
Stretch triple straight stitch,
For stretch seams requiring a right
needle position, right
needle position
H
Pullover stitch, wide
Elastic closing and serging seams
for rough jersey
HD
Pullover stitch, middle
Elastic closing and serging seams for
medium material quality
HG
Pullover stitch, narrow
Elastic closing and serging seams for fine jersey
I
Closed overlock stitch wide
A closing and serging seam for fraying material
ID
Turkish stitch
A topstiching seam for patchwork and quilting
IF
Penant stitch
A decorative, stretch stitch, also suitable
as a covering stitch for stretch material
lG
Closed overlock stitch,
A closing and serging seam, also for sewing
narrow
on lace
K
Opened overlock stitch
A closing and serging seam for stronger materia
that does not fray so much
KO
Peacock stitch with zigzag
A decorative, stretch stitch for topstitching
and fancy edges
KG
Peacock stitch with
A decorative stitch for topstitching and fancy
straight stitch
edges
KM
Cord stitch
A loose decorative seam
8
Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)
‘5’
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LD
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LI
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LDK
LEI
LGK
LMK
f
M
I
MD
ME
MF
I
MG
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———
Operation of the sewing machine
I
Electrical connection
page 1 2,
1 3
I
Detachable work support
page 1 4
Bobbins
pages 15
— 17
Bobbin case
pages
1 8, 1 9
Bobbin thread tension
page 1 9
J
Threading the needle
page 20
Needle threader
page 21
I
Pulling up the bobbin thread
page 22
Sewing foot lifter
page 22
Thread trimmer
page 22
I
Changing the sewing foot
page 23
Dual Feed
page 24, 25
Top feed
page 25
Changing the needle
page 26
Needle thread tension
page 27
Lowering the feed dog
page 27
Reverse sewing
page 28
-i
Stitch length knob
page 28
I
Pushbutton controls
page 29, 30
I
Function keys
page 31
11
Place the enclosed mains cord, foot control
and instruction book in the compartment of
the carrying case.
0’
Programs
The programs of the sewing machine are
illustrated on the inside of the top cover
Top cover
Open the folding cover (26) upwards.
Electrical connection (Modell 6230)
Connect the mains cord with the socket (9)
the sewing machine and the wall socket
F. Ii
N
N’
12
Connecting the foot control (Model 6230)
Connect the plug of the foot control with the
connection socket (12) of the sewing
machine.
The sewing speed is regulated by pressing
the pedal.
Main switch
Connect the plug of the foot control with the
connection socket (9) of the sewing machine.
The sewing speed is regulated by pressing
the pedal. The sewing speed can also be
regulated with the slide control on the head of
the foot control.
Position
= half speed
Position
44
= full speed
When the main switch (8) is switched on. the
sewing lamp lights up.
The sewing machine is now ready to use.
-
-
Connecting the foot control (Models 6110.
6120. 6150)
13
Winding the bobbin from the reel holder
Place the sewing thread on the reel holder
(24). To obtain free movement of the thread
and hold the thread reel firmly, fit an unwind
ing disk corresponding to the size of the
thread reel.
Threading
Place the thread into guide A from behind an
pull it through opening B to the right. Wind
the thread clockwise a few times around the
bobbin.
Switch on the main switch
Hold the end of the thread firmly and press
the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is ful
the winding action will stop automatically. C
the thread, push the bobbin to the left and
A
take it off.
Remember:
Turn the release disk (6) fully back again.
Then turn the hand wheel (5) towards you
until it snaps in.
S
16
Winding from the second reel holder
Insert the second reel holder (25) in the hole
provided and place a reel of thread on it.
Threading
Place the thread into guide C and pull it
through opening B to the right. Wind the
thread clockwise a few times around the bob
bin.
Switch on the main switch
Hold the end of the thread firmly and press
the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is full,
the winding action will be stopped automati
cally. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the
left and take it off.
Remember:
Turn the release disk (6) fully back again.
Then turn the hand wheel (5) towards you
until it snaps in
TIP: If the machine is already threaded, you
can wind thread from the second thread reel
without having to unthread the machine.
I
-4
I
I
I
I
I
I
17
Switch off the main switch
Hold the hook cover (28) at the side and open
it to the front.
Thread tension
Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull out
the bobbin case. Release the latch and take
out the empty bobbin.
To obtain optimum seam appearance and durability make sure the needle and bobbin thread
lensions are correctly adjusted to each other, i.e. Ihe threads are interlaced between the two
fabric plies. For fancy seams and buttonholes the thread interlace should be visible on the
reverse side of the fabric.
Taking out the bobbin case
18
Inserting the bobbin
F
Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case.
When doing so, pull the thread sideways
through slot A, then under tension spring B
until it rests in the opening (see arrow).
Check:
When you pull the thread, the bobbin must
turn clockwise.
Checking the bobbin thread tension
Hold the bobbin case by the thread and move
your hand sharply upwards. The bobbin case
must slip downwards a little with each hand
movement.
Correcting the tension:
Turn adjusting screw C just a little to the left
to decrease the bobbin thread tension.
Turn screw C lust a little to the right to
increase the tension.
Inserting the bobbin case
Lift cover F and push the bobbin case fully
onto pin 0 of the sewing hook. Opening E of
the bobbin case must face upwards.
Check:
Pull the bobbin thread sharply; the bobbin
case must not fall out of the hook.
19
Threading the needle
Switch off the main switch.
Raise the presser foot lifter (20). Turn the
hand wheel until the take-up lever (19) has
moved to the top. Place the thread on the
reel holder (24) and fit an unwinding disk o
the right size.
Now, using both hands, pull the thread into
guide A and under thread guide hook D. P
the thread through the threading slot (17)
downwards.
Pull the thread around stop E
nto the righthand threading slot and upwar
to the take-up lever (19). The thread must
pulled into the take-up lever from left to rig
Then pass the thread downwards again in t
righthand threading slot and behind thread
guide F.
Finally pass the thread from the side behind
one of the two thread guides (32).
To thread the needle, please refer to the ne
page.
PFAFF
/
D
jA
(/
F;
b
a
V
/
20
Needle threader (Models 6120. 6150. 6230)
The PFAFF needle threader (16) is an aid to
make threading the needle easier and quicker.
Lower the sewing foot (see next page). Turn
the hand wheel until the needle is at its high
est point.
Piace the needle thread over hook
o and hold it taut. Move the threader fully
downwards and turn it towards the needle so
that the small hook R goes through the needle
eye. Place the thread into the hook from
below.
Turn the threader towards the rear, releasing
the thread carefully, and allow the threader to
move upwards.
You can now pull the end of
the thread through the needle eye.
/
21
The sewing foot is raised or lowered with the
presser bar lifter (20).
Drawing up the bobbin thread
Raise the sewing foot.
Hold the needle thr
and turn the hand wheel towards you until
needle is at the top again and the bobbin
thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle
thread to draw up the bobbin thread.
—r
Bobbin thread
Close the hook cover (28) and pull the thread
under the sewing foot to the left.
Pull the threads from the back to the front
over the thread trimmer (30).
I,
Presser bar lifter
Thread trimmer
22
Removing the sewing foot
Turn off the main switch
Set the needle at its highest point. Press the
sewing foot upwards at the front and down
wards at the back at the same time so that it
disengages from the sewing toot holder (15).
Check:
Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot
holder (15) that the pins of the foot engage in
the sewing foot holder when the presser bar
lifter (20) is lowered.
Please check that the sewing foot is properly
engaged by raising the presser bar lifter.
Engaging the sewing foot
23
The built-in dual fabric feed (Models 6120, 6150, 6230)
For sewing difficult materials PFAFF offers the ideal solution: built-in dual feed. As on industr
sewing machines it feeds the material from the top and bottom at the same time. The fabric
fed accurately. On light or difficult materials such as silk and viscose fabrics the dual fabric fee
prevents seam puckering. The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked
and striped fabrics (see next page).
24
Disengaging the top feed
Hold the top feed with two fingers at the
marked places. Push the top feed (23) down
a little and out to the rear, and let it move
slowly upwards (see also the illustration on
page 24(.
Engaging the top feed
(Models 6120. 6150. 6230)
Raise the sewing foot. Now push the top feed
(23) so that it snaps in place
Important!
For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back.
25
Changing the needle
Switch off main switch
To remove: Lower the sewing foot and set
the needle at its highest point.
Now loosen
the Fixing screw (22) and pull the needle out
downa rds.
To insert: The flat side A of the needle must
Face to the rear.
Lower the sewing foot dnd
insert the needle. pushing it up as far as it wil
go. Hold the needle and tighten the fixing
screw (22) firmly.
[A
26
Setting the need’e thread tension
Set the required amount on the needle thread
tension (18) using mark A
The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5
For
embroidering. darning and buttonhole sewing
between 2 and 3.
For certain sewing work, e g. darning, the feed
dog has to be dropped. To do this, open the
hook cover and press slide B fully to the
right. Now the feed dog is lowered.
I
I
I
A
J I
Lowering the feed dog
27
The machine sews in reverse as long as the
reverse key (21) is kept pressed.
Li
AA
You will find the symbol
buttonhole bet
ween the figure 0 arid 1. The optimal stitch
density for sewing buttonholes is in this
range. The stitch becomes more concentrated
the farther you turn towards O
Stitch length knob
You can set the stitch length (11) from
o to 6 mm infinitely with the stitch length
knob, by turning to the marking for the desi
red stitch length.
You must turn the stitch length knob (11) as
far as it will go to sew the stretch stitches
with a grey background.
PFAFF
tiptr
1
11A)
L
fl1
Al
28
Setting utility stitches
Under the id (26) you can find the program
PFAFF
tiptronic 6230
table with all the stitches and stitch combina
tions.
On model 6230 the most important
stitches are additionally illustrated on the
lighted
display.
Each program has been given a letter that you
can find on the bushbutton controls.
If the
right button is pressed the program is selec
T— I
A1
ted and the machine is ready to sew. Key B
releases the keys that have been activated.
If
key G on models 6150 and 6230 is pressed
‘ 4 A A A
again the width of the stitches can be redu
ced by half.
Setting stretch stitches
All the stitches with a grey background are
PFAFF
tiptronic 6230
stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for
stretch material.
Press the selected key down
and turn the stitch length knob (11) right to
the
edge of the grey area.
Key B releases the keys that have already
been activated. On models 6150 and 6230 if
key G is pressed again the width of the
stitches can be reduced by half.
.4
Important: When sewing with utility
stitches with models 6150 and 6230 the
_
1 ).4j4J
fancy stitch knob (7) must be switched off,
i.e. turned to•
j
I
29
Utility and stretch stitch combinations
AIAAA
By striking two or several keys you can
combinations in the utility stitch range
The stitch length knob can either be set
utility sewing range or in the stretch rang
All the stitch combinations are illustrated
the program table in the lid. You can re
keys that are already activated with key
PFAFF
tiptronic 6230
MdinGem..’y
I
Fancy stitch knob
(Models 6150 and 6230)
Each fancy stitch has been given a letter.
Select a fancy stitch from the program table
and turn the fancy stitch knob (7) to the cor
rect letter under the marking. The stitch
length is between 0,5 and 1 mm
Fancy stitches and combinations
(Models 6150 and 6230)
Pattern combinations can be produced by
pressing the keys together with the fancy
stitch knob. You will find the setting on p
10. The stitch length is between 0,5 and
mm.
For
stretch” you must turn the stitch len
knob upwards as far as it will go, i.e. into
grey area.
PFAFF tiptronic 6230
0—
30
Function keys (Model 6230)
The tiptronic has three function keys.
1. Sewing slowly
When key (1)
slow sewing’ is pressed the
green diode lights up. The sewing machine
now sews at half speed. If the key is pressed
again the green diode is extinguished and the
machine sews at full speed again.
2. Needle position up/down
Each time sewing is interrupted the needle
automatically goes to its highest position.
If
key (2) is pressed the diode lights up. The
needle now remains in the material each time
there is an interruption in sewing. If you press
the key again the diode is extinguished and
the needle automatically goes up again.
3. Tacking
If key (3) ,,tacking” is pressed the green diode
lights up. The machine now only sews one
stitch when the foot control is activated. If the
key is pressed again the diode is extinguished
together with the function.
I
I
I
I
I
it
31
General sewing aids
Nonelastic stitches
Elastic stitches
Overlock stitches
Covering stitches
Buttonhole
Hems with twin needle
Smocking
Gathering
Darning
Inserting zippers
Rollhemming
Sewing lace
Shelledging
page 34
pages 35
pages 36
— 39
pages 40, 45
pages 42, 43
pages 44, 45
pages 46, 47
page 48
page 48
pages 49, 50
pages 51
— 53
pages 54, 55
page 56
page 57
Page 58
Utility stitches and practical sewing
33
Explanation of the sewing chart
The following charts show the recom
mended settings that you require for the
relevant sewing operations.
These charts also provide you with further
instructions that are necessary when sewing
the selected programs:
The choice of the sewing foot, the setting of
the needle thread tension and whether the
sewing is carried out with the top feed
switched on or off.
a
Models 6120
— 6230
b
Model 6110
prog
Program pattern
Stitch length in mm
Stitch width in mm
.......
Top feed engaged on•
--
disengaged off 0
n
Needle thread tension
Number of the sewing foot
34
Needle thread tension
In order to obtain perfect sewing results the
needle and bobbin thread tensions must be
correctly adapted to each other. The normal
setting for utility stitches is 3 to 5.
Check the tension using a wide zigzag stitch.
The interlace of the two threads must lie in
the middle of the two fabric plies.
If the interlace lies on the top side of the
fabric, this means the needle thread tension is
too tight. If it lies on the reverse side, the
needle thread tension is set too loose.
To adjust the bobbin thread tension, please
refer to page 19.
With programs G and HI you can change the
needle position in such a way that you can
always guide the sewing foot along the fabric
edge for topstitching work.
If you wish to
topstitch at a wider width than this, simply
guide the fabric along the guide marks on the
needle plate, or use edge guide 8. The edge
guide is inserted into hole C and is secured
with fixing screw F.
I.
Sewing aid for thick seams
To ensure correct feeding at the beginning of
the seam we recommend placing a piece of
fabric of the same thickness as the work
under the sewing foot to support it.
Topstitching
35
Basting stitch (Mode) 6230)
With key (3)
basting
you can baste a gar
ment before trying it on. When you press the
foot control the machine will only make one
stitch.
For each further stitch you have to
press the foot control each time,
— Lower the bottom feed and disengage the
top feed.
— Place the fabric under the sewing foot.
— Sew one stitch, then pull the fabric to the
rear by the required amount.
— Repeat this as many times as you need to
finish the work.
TIP: To prevent the material plies from
shifting, insert dress pins crosswise to the
basting direction, Light fabrics are easier to
baste with long straight stitches (6 mm).
Then you do not need to lower the bottom
feed.
Program G is the basic straight stitch with
middle needle position. The stitch length can
be increased up to 6 mm as required.
Some sewing jobs can be done easier by
changing the needle position, e.g. topstitching
a collar or sewing in a zipper.
You have a
choice of three needle positions.
Needle position on the left
— release all the
keys with key B.
Needle position in the middle
— key G
Needle position on the right
— key H and I
When adjusting the position of the needle
please make sure it is in the highest position.
prog
Straight stitch
36
With keys D, E and F you can alter the width
of the zigzag stitches from 2 to 6 mm. By
combining the keys DIE or E/F you obtain
additional widths
When serging the edge,
always make sure the needle goes into the
material and over the edge alternately
For serging difficult materials, blind stitch foot
No. 3 is very useful. While sewing, the thread
lies over pin C. thus preventing curling of the
fabric edge
In this way you can sew beautiful
smooth seams.
The edge of the cutting has to be guiding
along edge guide B. You can adjust this edge
guide with adjusting screw A.
important: Only use the blind stitch foot with
key F.
37
Blind stitch H is best suited for invisible hems;
sewing by hand is unnecessary.
— Serge the edge of the hem.
— Fold the edge inwards by the hem width.
— Now unfold the hem again so that the hem
edge protrudes by about half an inch.
— Now place the fabric under the sewing foot
so that the crease line runs along edge
guide B.
— When the needle enters the crease line it
must only pick up one fibre of the fabric.
-J
-J
Th<
—
Program MF/Stretch is a blind stitch for
elastic materials (except model 6110).
The hem is sewn and serged at the same
time, i.e. it is not necessary to serge the fa
edge.
If the stitches are visible on the face side,
adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting
screw A.
Blind stitch
38
Sewing on buttons with stems
— Insert the sewing foot.
— Place a match between the holes of the
button and sew it on as described on the
left.
Sewing on buttons
With orogram E you can sew on two and four-
hole buttons with no problem at all
— Remove the sewing foot and lower the feed
dog.
— Turn the hand wheel towards you and posi
tion the button so that the needle enters the
left hole in the button.
— Now lower the presser bar lifter; the button
is now held by the shank of the foot.
- Now sew on the button.
Make sure that the
needle also enters the right hole in the
button.
Then release with key B and the needle
automatically goes into the left hand posi
tion
-
— Now sew with a few stitches. Make sure
that the needle enters in the left hole of the
jiittnii
Remove the match and pull the button and
fabric apart.
— Wrap the stem with sewing thread and
knot ii.
I
I
I
prog
Li
39
D E F
StrpcP
4 6
3 5
0
Stretch triple straight stitch
This program is used for sewing all seams
where great strength is needed, e.g. inside
trouser seams. The farther you turn the stitch
length knob, the longer the stitch length.
Stretch triple zigzag stitch
The stretch triple zigzag stitch is a highly
elastic and decorative seam which is very
suitable for hems on T-shirts and underwear.
— Serge the edge of the hem.
— Fold the hem inwards at the required width.
— Topstitch the hem from the face side.
40
I Stretch I
6
•
3-5
0/1
[ bIMI125161._13-510I bMIStretchI6I_I35I0I
Elastic stitch
Owing to its high elasticity this stitch is used
for sewing on elastic tapes, e.g. on underwear.
Cut off the old elastic tape close to the
edge.
— Gather the fabric with 6 mm long straight
stitches.
Push the part prepared in this way between
the elastic tape, or place it underneath, and
pin it firmly in place.
-. Sew it on with elastic stitch. Leave the ends
of the elastic tape overlapping a little and
sew over them with elastic stitches.
On skirts or trousers the elastic tape is
sewn onto the prepared edge with elastic
stitch.
Honeycomb stitch
Honeycomb stitch is used for elastic and
decorative hemming, and is very suitable for
hems on underwear and T-shirts.
— Fold the edge of the hem over double and
overstitch it.
41
What is an overlock stitch?
For knitted and other stretch materials the
models with pushbutton controls offer a
selection of overlock stitches. These join two
plies of fabric and serge them in one opera
tion. They have a higher elasticity than usual
seams, they are more durable, and you can
sew them fast, too.
Closed overlock stitch
TIP: When you sew overlock seams, we
recommend you use blind stitch foot No. 3. It
Program I is ideal for sewing jersey fabrics
guides the fabric better and prevents contrac
especially. You can use it for sewing on
tion of the seam at wider stitch widths
sleeve cuffs or knitted collars durably, too.
TIP: Make sure that the cuff is stretched while
sewing.
,‘
prog
>
H
a
K
Sreich
6
•
3-5
0/1 3
b1KStretch 61- ]35j03j
Open overlock stitch
With this stitch it is no problem to loin firm
materials or fabrics which do not fray too
much.
TIP: Make sure that the needle in its righthand
position just misses the edge of the material.
42
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Pullover stitch
This stitch is suitable for open knit fabrics
Fully fashioned parts can be easily sewn
together with it Make sure that the material is
led to the right of the needle not to the left
TIP: To prevent the seam from stretching
open while joining, it is advisable to add a
woollen thread under slight tension.
43
With fagoting stitch you can make very elastic
seams with hemstitching effect, eg. on
corsetry.
— Serge the fabric edges and tack baste over
on the inside.
— Place the fabric under the sewing foot with
the edges about 1/8 of an inch apart.
— Sew on the face side, making sure the
needle enters the material on the right and
left side.
What is a covering stitch?
You can use the following programs for
sewing a flat covering seam. This produces
the typical ,,flatlock effect” which lends a
professional look to collar plackets or raglan
seams.
44
Fancy elastic stitch
Fancy elastic stitch is very useful for materials
that need a flat seam, e.g. terry cloth.
— Place the two fabric edges so that they
overlap by about 3/4 of an inch and over-
stitch each edge with fancy elastic stitch.
Pennant stitch
Pennant stitch is one of the many covering
stitches. Since it can be stretched it is parti
cularly suitable for overstitching the bands on
elastic material e.g. sweat shirts or sports
wear.
— Sew the band onto the part with overlock
stitch.
— The seam allowance can now be over
stitched from the right side of the fabric.
Make sure that the needle enters in the
shadow of the seam.
45
Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all the
models with pushbutton controls since the
fabric does not have to be turned.
8uttonholes are generally sewn onto a piece
of doubled fabric. However, for some
materials, e.g. silk, organza and viscose, it is
necessary to use silk paper backing to prevent
the material from contracting while sewing.
Avalon (by Madeira) is ideal for this purpose.
It is a special nonwoven fibre which dissolves
when it comes into contact with water.
For
materials such as velvet, leather or thick
woollens, which are difficult to feed, it can be
placed over or under the fabric. In this way
the material is not braked and buttonholes are
much easier to make.
To produce beautiful seams, embroidering or
darning threads are ideally suitable.
Mark the starting point of the buttonhole
either with a magic pen or dress pin, and
always sew a sample buttonhole first.
Note:
Before starting any buttonhole, always push
the guide of the buttonhole foot fully to the
front. i.e. so that the red arrow is at the first
red mark. The red marks are arranged at an
interval of 0,5 cm. They are a guide when
fixing the length of the buttonhole.
46
Insert the buttonhole slide and push it fully
to the front.
— Press key C and sew the first seam to the
required length.
Then press key B. Keep it pressed and sew
a few stitches for the bartack, while holding
the material securely.
Then press key A and sew back the second
seam to the same length.
Now press key B again and sew a few bar
tack stitches, while holding the material
securely.
— When the key is released the needle jumps
to the left position and you can sew up the
buttonhole with a few stitches.
— Cut the buttonhole open with a pair of
scissors or a seam ripper.
To produce highly durable buttonholes, e.g.
for sportswear, we recommend using a gimp
thread.
For all stretchable materials, too, a gimp
thread is very important, in order to avoid
overstretching of the buttonhole.
— Place the gimp thread over the back ridge A
and pull the thread ends under the sewing
foot to the front.
Pull the threads into the left and right of
ridge B.
— Push the buttonhole slide fully forward.
then sew the buttonhole.
— Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the
buttonhole and cut off the loose thread
ends.
Linen buttonhole with gimp thread
47
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Sewing hems with the twin needle
With the twin needle you can not only
embroider, but also make topstitch seams.
Using the twin needle you can add a profes
sional touch to hems on stretch materials
such as T shirts, knitted articles or cycling
shorts both quickly and easily. Twin needles
are available in different widths. The most
common is 4 mm. Do not forget to use only
jersey needles for stretch fabrics.
— First iron the hem over at the required
width.
— Then stitch the hem through from the face
side of the fabric.
Finally, trim the overlapping hem edge back
to the Seam.
TIP: On difficult fabrics such as ribknits It is
easier to baste the hen over before topstitch
ng To thread the twin needle, please refer to
page 64.
Fine light materials such as batiste, viscose or
silk are particularly suitable for effective
smocking. When smocking with an elastic
thread you should use an additional bobbin
case and wind the elastic thread by hand.
Since elastic thread is a lot thicker than the
normal bobbin thread the tension of the bob
bin case must be set loosely. The general rule
is
the stronger the bobbin thread tension
the greater the gathering effect.
— Sew a sample seem to check the degree Or
gathering.
— Mark the first line on the face of the fabric
You can sew each additional row a sewing
foot away from the first row.
— When sewing several rows side by side you
must pull the material while sewing since
otherwise the gathering is uneven.
— Knot the threads at the beginning and end
of the rows on the reverse side of the mate
rial.
Smocking effect with elastic threads
48
Gathering with straight stitch
With Program G at a stitch length of 6 mm
you can gather sleeves, skirts or valances. To
obtain a neat and even gather you should sew
two or three gathering seams.
- Mark the first line on the face side of the
fabric and stitch along it. Leave about four
or five inches of thread protruding at the
end.
You can now stitch the other seams at
sewing foot width using the first one as a
guide.
Now gather the part by pulling the bottom
threads.
You determine the amount of
gather yourself
— Finally, knot the thread ends together to
secure the gather.
...
49
TIP: The cording foot (special accessory) is
Gathering sleeves or waist seams is no pro
also ideal for gathering. The grooves in this
blem at all with elastic threads. The elastic
foot guide the elastic evenly during the sewing
thread must not be wound onto the bobbin,
operation.
— Mark the first gathering seam on the
reverse side of the fabric.
-. Make a few starting stitches using program
M, then leave the needle down in the fabric.
The needle must be at the middle of the
sewing foot.
Raise the sewing foot and
place the elastic thread around the needle.
— Lower the sewing foot again and sew a few
more stitches, but do not pull the ends of
the elastic thread until these are sewn.
— From then on you determine the amount of
gather by the amount you pull on the elastic
thread.
After sewing you can still change the
amount of gather by pulling both elastic
threads.
— Finally, knot the threads and the elastic.
(
Gathering with elastic threads
50
Darning with the straight stitch
Insert the darning foot:
Set the needle at its highest position and
push the pin of the darning foot fully into hole
C. When you do this, guide fork G places
itself around the presser bar. Wire E must be
behind fixing screw F. Now tighten screw D.
Darning position:
Lower the presser bar lifter and push it lightly
to the rear. This positions the presser bar lifter
into notch E (darning position).
Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
— Lower the feed dog.
— Draw up the bobbin thread and hold the
threads when you start sewing.
— Darn over the damaged area by moving the
part evenly in the required direction. When
doing so, move the part in shallow curves.
This prevents tearing of the darn later.
— When you have stitched evenly over the
darning area, turn the fabric by 90 degrees
and darn over the damaged area again.
You determine the stitch length for this work
yourself, by moving the part back and forth.
TIP: If small knots appear on the reverse side,
this means you have been moving the part too
slowly.
51
Darning with elastic stitch
Darning with elastic stitch is also a very
suitable means of repairing damaged fabric.
— Sew over the damaged area with rows of
stitches until it is well covered. When doing
so, make sure the stitch rows overlap each
other.
Sewing on patches
The best way to darn larger holes is to cover
the damaged area with a piece of new mate
rial.
— Baste the piece of new material onto the
damaged area from the face side.
-. Overstitch its edges with elastic stitch.
— Now cut back the damaged material up to
the seam on the reverse side.
TIP: In order to turn at the corners more easily
with model 6230. use the
needle down”
function.
52
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Sewing in zippers
There are different ways to sew in zippers.
For skirts we recommend inserting the zipper
concealed on both sides, and for men’s or
ladies’ slacks concealed on one side. Different
types of zippers are available in shops and
stores. For tough materials such as denim we
recommend metal zippers, and plastic zippers
for all other materials.
For all types of zippers it is important to sew
right up close to the teeth of the zipper. This
is why the zipper foot can be engaged in the
foot holder to the left or right, depending on
the method of insertion.
Using one of the three needle positions you
can also set the needle so that it enters close
to the edge of the zipper teeth. If the sewing
toot is engaged on the right side, the needle
position must only be changed to the right, If
the foot is engaged left, the needle must only
be moved to the left.
— Engage the zipper foot to the right side.
— Place the zipper under the sewing foot so
that the teeth run at the side of the foot.
— Sew in half of the zipper, leave the needle
in the material, raise the sewing foot and
close the zipper.
— Now you can sew the rest of the seam to
the end of the zipper and stitch the cross
wise seam.
Inserting zippers concealed on both sides
>
-—- L
54
— Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at
the same distance.
Stop shortly before the end of the seam
and leave the needle in the material. Raise
the sewing foot and open the zipper.
— You can now sew to the end of the seam.
— Shortly before the end of the seam, open
the zipper and finish sewing the seam.
— Close the zipper and baste the overlap
evenly onto the other zipper half.
— Afterwards stitch along the basted seam.
TIP: To achieve accurate seams we recom
mend using the edge guide.
Trouser zippers
— Iron the seam margin over, making sure
there is an overlap of about 15/32) 4 mm.
— Baste the zipper under the overlapping
edge so that the teeth are still visible.
— Engage the zipper foot on the right and set
the needle at the required position.
Stitch close along the edge of the zipper.
55
With the hemmer you can rollhem blouses,
silk fabrics or valances with no problem at all
and without having to iron the edges before
hand Hemming secures the edges against
fraying and produces a tidy and durable edge
finish.
— Fold the fabric edge over double (about
(5/64) 2 mm per fold).
— Place the folded fabric edge under the
hemmer and sew a few stitches.
— Leave the needle in the material. Raise the
sewng foot and push the fabric Into the
scroll of the hemmer.
— Lower the sewing foot and guide the fabri
edge evenly in the hemer. When doing so
make sure the fabric does not run under t
right side of the sewing foot.
TIP: For sIlk, vScuse or Qhlffor rnateriots o
rolled hem looks better with Ljziq stitches
56
You can produce a beautiful effect on
christening wear or other children’s clothes
with lace inserts,
First baste the lace to the face side of the
fabric.
— Stitch both edges of the lace with a narrow
margin.
— Cut open the fabric under the lace at the
middle and iron it over to the side.
— Stitch over both edges of the lace with
small and dense zigzag stitches.
— Cut back the waste material.
Lace edges
Lace trimmings provide many new ways of
designing and enhancing home textiles.
This is the way to do it:
First serge the raw edges.
Stitch the lace onto the face side up to the
first corner.
— Fold the corner and stitch over it diagonally.
— All other sides are done in the same way.
.3
- .‘--
..—
5]
Shell edging is very effective for thin, soft
fabrics such as silk and viscose materials. It is
frequently used as an edge finish on under
wear, too. The tighter you set the needle
thread tension the farther the shell edging is
pulled in
Serge the raw edge and iron the seam
margin over to the left.
While sewing, make sure that the fabric
runs under the sewing foot at half the foot
width, only.
This provides a more promi
nent shell edging effect
TIP: If you add a coloured wool thread at the
edge you can strengthen the shell edging and
obtain a pretty contrast at the same time
instead of a woollen thread you can also place
a different coloured light fabric underneath.
•
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58
Sewing table for embroidery
Decorative stitches
Monograms
Appliqué
Richelieu
Quilting
Eyelet embroidery
Hemstitching
page 60
page 61
— 64
page 65
page 66
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
Decorative and traditional
I
59
To enhance your own home textiles or gar
ments the models 6150 and 6230 offer you a
S
whole host of fancy and decorative stitches to
choose from.
You can produce even greater
embroidery variations by selecting different
combinations, colours or sizes.
For embroi
dery work we recommend using special
embroidery threads which are available from
your Ptaff dealer.
For the parts to be embroidered you should
either use an iron-on backing or place silk
backing paper under the fabric. This prevents
the material from contracting. You can mark
out the embroidery pattern with a magic pen
or marking chalk. These lines will dissolve
after a few hours or can be ironed away. The
following recommendations apply to all
embroidery work:
The stitch length and width can be altered as
desired.
60
Changing the pattern length
You can vary the pattern length infinitely with
the aid of the stitch length knob. The stitch
density for embroidery is generally in the but
tonhole range. The larger the stitch density
you set is, the farther the pattern is stretched
apart.
Changing the pattern width
The machine automatically Sets a stitch width
of 6 mm for the fancy stitches. If you wish to
alter the width select key G at the same time.
All the stitches are now reduced by half i.e.
reduced to a width of 3 mm.
/
/
j
1
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
61
By combining different embroidery programs
you can embroider borders of any width.
Madeira embroidery threads are very suitable.
They are available in many colour shades and
different sizes. However, only use one thread
size for one piece of embroidery work.
— Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing
paper under the fabric.
— Embroider over the marked middle point
with program V/F. After that, turn the fabric
and sew the border back again in reverse.
— Embroider stitch U parallel to it.
— Finally, add program X to every fifth zigzag
point.
In this border embroidery example multi
coloured embroidery thread is used as an
additional effect.
— Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing
paper under the fabric.
— Embroider over the marked middle with
program M/D/F. Then turn the fabric and
sew the border back again in reverse.
— Embroider program UIG parallel to it.
— You can now stitch the straight row with
program DIE and the final zigzag row with
program U/F.
62
Borders with a combination of stitches
By combining different embroidery keys as
desired you can easily achieve other embroi
dered effects.
This is a simple and pleasing
way to embellish tablecloths and garments.
— Apply iron-On backing or place silk backing
paper under the fabric.
— Mark the centre with tailors chalk.
— You can now begin with the combination
M/F Stretch. Embroider along the marked
line. Then turn the fabric and embroider
back down the border in reverse.
— Then sew close to the first border with the
combination L/G/K Stretch.
— LIE Stretch completes the border.
>..
>
>,
>>>..
>>.
Combinations with coloured thread
An additional effect can be produced with dif
ferent coloured thread. Multicolour thread was
used for the middle border in this example.
You can obtain it in a great variety of shades
from our PFAFF dealer.
— Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing
paper under the fabric.
-. Mark the middle with tailors chalk.
-. You can now begin with the combination
MIF Stretch. Embroider along the marked
line. Then turn the fabric and embroider
back down the border in reverse.
Then sew close to the first border with the
combination LIGIK Stretch.
— LIE Stretch completes the border.
b
N
N
L
N
N
N
L
N
L
N
L.
‘4
‘4
63
You can achieve further embroidery effects by
using the twin needle.
The illustrations show
what beautiful borders can be made with a
little imagination.
Note:
Only use a twin need with a width of 2,5 mm
for all embroidery.
Threading the twin needle
— Insert the twin needle.
Fit the second reel holder and place one
reel of thread on each holder
In the left threading slot (17) you will find
tension disk C. While threading, make sure
that you pass one thread left and one
thread right over tension disk C.
— Place the threads farther than normal, but
make sure the threads are not twisted with
each other.
— Pull the threads right and left into thread
guide (32) and thread the needles
64
No matter whether you work on terry cloth or
woven fabric, with the darning foot and pro
grams D, E or F you can monogram any initi
als of your own design.
Freehand guiding, however, needs a little
practice in the beginning.
— Transfer the initials with the magic pen to
the part to be embroidered.
— Lower the feed dog and insert the darning
foot (see page 51).
— Place a piece of Avalon on the fabric.
— Tauten the part in an embroidery hoop and
embroider it with the zigzag stitch.
Do not
forget to use the darning position
— Knot the threads and pull off the Avalon
(Any waste is dissolved in water).
TIP: If you sew fast but move the material
slowly, the stitches will be made dense.
On terry cloth the monogram must first be
presewn with narrow zigzag stitches and then
oversewn with a wider zigzag stitch
This
makes sure the terry cloth loops are properly
covered.
Block capitals are a little easier to embroider.
The feed dog does not need to be lowered, i.e.
no freehand guiding is required.
All you have
to do is stitch along the marked lines using
programs 0. E or F.
— Apply iron-on backing or place paper
underneath.
— Mark the monogram on the fabric.
— Now embroider the marked lines with the
zigzag stitch.
-
I.
Id
Ii
%
4.
44..
65
Appliqués are quickly made and always pro
duce a beautiful fancy effect. By using diffe
rent materials and patterns you can obtain
variations galore. You can make a perfect,
densely stitched seam with the applique foot
(special accessoriesf, because it has a special
cutout on its sole for the zigzag seam.
— Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing
machine
Transfer your drafted pattern to the face
side, smooth side, of the fusible backing
fabric. Remember that any letters or num
bers have to be drawn as a mirror image.
Now iron the backing fabric onto the appli
qué material.
Cut the motif out and pull the
paper off
— Place and iron on the applique parts on the
base material.
— Afterwards overstitch all contours with nar
row and dense zigzag stitches D or E
Also
make sure the needle passes the outer edge
so that no fraying occurs later.
This very artistic form of bar and eyelet
embroidery is easy to make with your sewing
mach me.
— Transfer your pattern onto the face side of
the fabric using the magic pen.
— Then place two plies of embroidery Avalon
backing under the area to be embroidered
and tauten the fabric and backing in an
embroidery hoop.
— Insert foot number 0.
— To make the embroidery more stable, sew
around all contours double with a straight
stitch of approx. 1 mm length.
— After that, carefully cut out the fabric from
the areas that will form the cutouts at about
2 mm along their contours, but do not cut
away the backing material.
— Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag
stitch.
— The backing material provides this part of
the work with much more shape and stabi
lity.
— Finally, all you have to do is dissolve the
Avalon embroidery backing in water, and
your piece of individually made embroidery
is ready.
1
Appliqué work
Richetieu
66
Quilting is a traditional sewing technique. The
method that the wives of American settlers
developed to make use of material remnants
has become an artistic hobby with many
enthusiasts in our country, too.
A quilt always consists of three layers of
material. Lots of geometrically shaped pieces
of material are joined together in continually
changing patterns to form the top layer of the
auilt. This is tacked onto the middle layer
made of polyester padding and connected to
the back layer of the quilt that usually consists
of one uniform piece of material The entire
quilt is often also bordered with the back
layer.
Of course, the work of piecing the individual
bits of material together must be very precise.
Trie Dual Feed is of particular assistance when
doing this.
Cut out the parts of your quilt with
templates you have bought or made your
self.
A seam allowance of 0,7 cm should
already be included in the templates.
— Spread out the parts as in the pattern and
form small squares that you can match
together. These squares are then sewn
together to form the surface of the quilt.
— The seam allowances of quilts are not
serged up but just smoothed out
— never
ironed
1
In traditional quilts these three layers of
material are sewn together by hand with
small stitches
— but it is quicker and more
practical with the sewing machine e.g. with
the program ID stretch or L stretch. There is
always stitching about 3 mm beside the
seam. Embroidered stitches look very good
on plain coloured material. Use foot number
0 for this work.
When your quilt is finished you can make it
into cushions, wall hangings or bed
covers.
And this is what you do.
67
Traditional eyelet embroidery which long ago
had to he made laboriously by hand can be
made quite easily with the help of an eyelet
plate Ispecial accessory).
This is very etfective on blouses, bed or table
linen Practically all stitch types are suitable
for this utility stitches such as a zigzag stitch,
blind stitch, elastic stitch or fancy stitches
(Models 6150, 6230).
For classic eyelet embroidery, program E or F
are very suitable.
Remove the sewing foot.
— Set the presser bar lifter in darning position
Isee page 511.
— Place the eyelet plate on the needle plate,
making sure pin A fits in the middle cutout
of the needle plate. Then push the plate
down at the tront.
— Place the marked fabric taut in an embroi
dery hoop.
Cut one or two of the fabric
threads and push the fabric over the pin in
the eyelet plate. The fabric must fit snugly
around the pin.
Draw up the bobbin thread and hold it for
the first few stitches.
— You can now stitch around the cut with the
selected program. By doing this it is impor
tant to turn the fabric slowly and evenly.
The stitches should be very close to each
other
— Afterwards secure with straight stitches.
liP: If you choose another program, e g. a
fancy stitch with model 6150 or 6230 or a
blind stitch, the cut will only be partly stitched
around, or not at all. To complete this, just
select key A afterwards and stitch evenly
around the cut.
Eyelet embroidery
68
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Accessories and needles
Sewing feet (normal accessories)
Special accessory table
Felling foot
Gathering foot
Cording foot
Bias binder
Multistitch gatherer
Cording foot
Appliqué foot
Fringe foot
Needle table
pages 72, 73
page 74
page 75
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 77
page 78
page 78
page 79
pages 80, 81
71
Sewing feet (accessories)
K.
o
Normal sewing foot
Part No. 98-694 816-00
(Model 6120—6230)
Part No. 98-694 847-00
(Modell 6110)
Fancy stitch foot for top feed
Part No. 98-694 814-00
(Model 6120
— 6230)
NO
I(O
Clearviewfoot
L,(Q
(Fancy stitch foot not suitable for top feed>
Part No. 98-694 864-00
(Model 6110— 6230)
LJILc
PvT j)
q’ çv-9-’
-. tSfr rV
1fA1
$4 A
S’T
3
Blind stitch and overlock foot
Part No. 98-694 890-00
(Model 6120— 6230)
Part No. 98-694 845-00
(Model 6110)
4
Zipper and edge sewing foot
Part No. 98-694 884-00
(Model 6120—6230>
Part No. 98-694 843-00
(Model 61101
72
Sewing feet (accessorlesi
5
Buttonhole foot
Part No. 98-694882-00
(Model 6110
— 6230)
6
Darning foot
Part No. 93-035960-91
(Model 6110
6230)
For Model 6110 special accessory
7
Hemmer
Part No. 98-694818-00
(Model 6110 — 6230)
For Model 6110 special accessory
8
Edge guide
Part No. 98-802422-00
(Model 6110
— 6230)
Second spool holder 9333vC3 -‘t
Seam ripper
Brush
Oil tube
(.
R
73
Sewing feet special accessory)
Special accessories are intended for special sewing work.
They are available at a charge from your dealer.
Accessory
Part number
Sewing work
Appliqué foot
93-042941-91
For appliqué work
Bias binder
98-053484-91
For binding edges with
(remove foot holder(
bias tape
Cording foot, 5 grooves
93-042950-91
(twin needles with needle spacing 1 6 to 20)
Cording foot, 7 grooves
93-042953-91
For cording work
(twirl needles with needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)
(needle size 801
Cording tongue (2(
93.03595245
Fringe foot
93-042 943-91
For sewing loop
embroidery
Straight stitch foot with round hole
98-69482 1 -00
Caution’
Only use straight
stitch in middle needle
position!
Needle plate with round hole
98-694822-00
For top-stitching seams and
sewing very light and
soft materials (silk
jersey. etc.)
Lap-feller, 4.5 mm
93-042946-91
For lap-feller seams
Lap-feller, 6.5 mm
93-042 948-91
For lap-feller seams
Gathering foot
93-036998-91
For gathering frills,
etc.
Mu)tistitch gathering foot
98-999650-00
For placing dense or loose
(remove foot holder)
pleats on frills, etc.
Cording foot
93-036915-91
For cording
Eyelet plate
93-036976-45
For eyelet embroidery
Roll hemmer, 2 mm
98-694873-00
For hemming edges
Hemmer, 4 mm (for top teed(
98-694823-00
For hemming edges
Hemmer (not for top feed 61 1 0(
98-694818-00
For hemming edges
Knit edge foot
93-042957-91
For sewing knitted fabrics
Darning foot (model 61 10(
93-035960-91
For darning damaged parts
Teflon foot
93-0369 1 7-91
For sewing leather
and synthetics
The following pages contain application examples of some special accessories.
74
Lap-feller seams are not only ornamental but
strong, too. This makes them very suitable for
sportswear and children’s wear, men’s shirts
and Jeans. You can make these seams very
effective if you use a sewing thread of a con
trasting colour.
Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by
about 3/8’ to 5/8’.
— Now place this overlapping edge over the
tongue of the lap felling foot. The fabric
must be placed fully under the sewing foot
— Sew along the folded edge with straight
stitch.
— Afterwards separate the fabric and feed the
protruding hem into the lap-feller
The hem
is turned over by the foot and is over-
stitched along the edge.
Pull the two fabric
plies apart during sewing
Gathering foot
Beautiful gathering effects, e.g. on children’s
wear or curtains, can be made quickly and
easily with the gathering foot. Gathering by
hand is no longer necessary.
— Engage the gathering foot by hooking the
rear bar of the foot into the rear groove of
the foot holder
Push the foot upwards
until it snaps into the front bar.
Place the fabric to be gathered under the
sewing foot, and the gatherfree fabric from
the top through the foot cutout.
The fabric
parts lie face side to face side
— While stitching you must pull the top fabric
a little. The harder you pull, the greater the
gathering effect you achieve.
Be sure you guide the fabric edges evenly
through the foot.
— Disengage the gathering foot by pushing it
down at the front, and take it Out to the
back over the groove of the sewing foot
holder.
TIP: You can also regulate the amount of
gather by adjusting the needle thread tension
and the stitch length.
I
Lap-feller
I progi
I
I
I
I a
G
-
La
tt
erin
3
1
—
I
— 13-51
foot
— Place the fabric reverse side to reverse side.
75
The classic sewing technique of cording can
be used without any problems on fabrics such
as cotton and light wollens Underclothing and
children’s wear can be given a traditional look
with cording.
— Engage the cording foot.
— Replace the needle with a twin needle 11.6
or 2 mml.
— Thread up with two needle threads Isee
page 64).
— Now set the needle thread tension quite
tight lat about 5), to make the seam more
prominent.
TiP: If you wish to emphasize the cording
effect, you can fit a
cording tongue” on the
front edge of the needle plate.
This shapes
the fabric during sewing and gives the cording
more volume.
You can obtain a similar effect by using a
gimp thread; this makes the cording look
wider.
In this case, however, do not use a cording
tongue.
— To do this, remove the needle plate.
— Thread the gimp thread through the hole of
the needle plate from below to the top.
— Replace the needle plate. The notch bet
ween the needle plate and the sewing
machine provides space for the gimp
thread. This thread must be fed under the
cloth plate, so that it does not become
tangled during sewing.
— During sewing the cording pull the material
lightly.
— You can use the grooves in the cording foot
to guide the work along an already sewn
cording seam. This ensures that the
distance between cording seams is always
constant.
TIP: There are two different cording feet: a
five groove and a seven groove foot Isee table
on page 74).
With the seven groove foot the sewn cordings
are closer together than with the five groove
foot.
76
Binding with bias tape is a very easy method
of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat
appearance.
For this you need unfolded bias
tape about an inch wide.
— Remove the foot holder with sewing foot
and screw on the binder.
— Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a dia
gonal.
— Push the tape into the scroll of the binder
and pull it out to the back.
— Adjust the binder so that the needle enters
at about 1/16
from the folded edge of the
bias tape, or adjust the needle position.
Stitch about an inch or so along the bias
tape before you insert the edge to be bound
into the slot of the binder. The raw edge
must be placed between the bias tape
edges.
During sewing, the bias tape will
enclose the raw edge automatically.
TIP: You can obtain an additional effect by
using zigzag stitch or a fancy stitch.
This is a really classic sewing footi You can
make closely or widely spaced pleats as if by
magic.
The multistitch gathering foot can be used in
three different ways:
1
Folding the fabric in pleats.
2. Folding the fabric in pleats and sewing
them on in one operation.
3. Folding the fabric in pleats, sewing them
on and sewing on lace at the same time.
When you buy the multistitch gathering foot
from your PFAFF dealer, full operating
instructions are included.
Bias tape binder
Multistitch gathering foot
77
O35-lj 1,5 2
3
cording
I
I
b
C
jO.35.lj 1.5 2 j
foot
I
Cording foot
Cording is a technique in which pearl thread
or a fine cord is overstitched to produce a purl
seam. With this you can obtain an effect
similar to braiding. Appliqués can also be
made more effective with this seam.
-. Mark the required motif on the fabric,
avoiding too tight curves or angles if
possible.
— Engage the cording foot and place the fil
ling thread in one of the front grooves of
the foot. then place the filling thread in the
back groove under the foot shoe.
— Now overstitch the filling thread with nar
row and dense zigzag stitches
Now you
have made a socalled purl seam.
TIP: You can also obtain a special effect by
overstitching a medium pearl thread with a
thread of a different colour.
Appliqué foot
Appliqués are quickly made and always pro
duce a beautiful fancy effect.
By using diffe
rent materials and patterns you can obtain
variations galore.
You can make a perfect.
densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot,
because it has a special cutout on its sole for
the zigzag seam
— Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing
machine.
— Transfer your drafted pattern to the face
side, smooth side, of the fusible backing
fabric. Remember that any letters or num
bers have to be drawn in mirrored fashion.
-. Now iron the backing fabric onto the appli
que material.
Cut the motif Out and pull the
paper off.
— Place and iron on the applique parts on the
base material.
— Afterwards overstitch all contours with nar
row and dense zigzag stitches. When you
reach a curve, use the
needle down”
iModel 62301 function to help you guide
the work more easily. Also make sure the
needle passes the outer edge so that no
fraying occurs later.
78
With this special foot for loop embroidery you
can produce fantastic effects in no time. This
foot is very useful for terry cloth.
-. Mark out any pattern you wish with the
magic pen.
— Use a silk paper underlay and engage the
fringe foot.
— Embroider the motif, row by row.
For circ
les you have to work from the outside
inward.
— For thicker threads you may have to choose
a longer stitch length; it is best to sew a
test seam first.
— When you have finished, pull the work out
of the machine carefully, because if you pull
too fast, you will pull the last loops tight.
— Knot the threads on the reverse side.
79
Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material.
Fabric weight
Fabric weight
Fabric weight
light
medium
heavy
needle
needle
needle
607075
8090
100 110 120
Needle points
Type
Shape
Type of eye
Suitable for
and point
130/705H
Small ball
Universal needle for fine synthetic
Needle size:
point
wovens, fine linen, chiffon, batiste,
70/SO
—
organdy, wool fabrics, velvet, fancy
seams and embroidery
130/705 H-SUK
Medium ball
Openknits, warpknits, lastex, interlock,
Needle size:
—
—
point
Quiana, Simplex
70/110
130/705 H-PS
Medium ball
Special Pfaff stretch fabric needle, very
Needle size:
-
point
suitable for delicate stretch and warp-
75 + 90
knits
130/705 H-SKF
Large ball
Open corsetry fabrics, Lycra, Simplex,
Needle size
— —
—
point
Lastex
70/110
130/705 H-J
Sharp round
Twill, workwear, heavy linen fabrics,
Needle size:
point
blue jeans, light sailcloth
90-110
130/705 H-LR
Narrow twist
Leather, suede, calf and goatskin
Needle size:
point
70-120
(right)
130/705 H-PCL
Narrow wedge
Imitation leather, plastics, foils and
Needle size:
point with left
oilcloth
80-110
twist groove
130 H-N
Light ball
Topstitching with buttonhole silk or
Needle size
point with
synthetic threads, 30/3
70-110
long eye
130/705 H-WING
Hemstitching
Effective hemstitch seams on heavily
Needle size:
point
dressed materials, organdy and glass
100
cambric
80
Fancy pattern with twin needles
Before you sew the desired ornamentation, turn the hand wheel to check whether the needles
sew through the fabric correctly. In this way needle breakage can generally be avoided.
Fancy stitch/zigzag patterns
1 30/705 H-ZWI
Size: 80
0,5
— 1,5 mm
wide
1,6 mm
ornamentation
Size: 80
0,5
— 1.5 mm
thin
2,0 mm
ornamentation
Size: 80
0.5
— 1,5 mm
thin
2,5 mm
ornamentation
Hemming/special double needle
130/705
H-ZWI-HO
decorative
Size: 80
2,3
— 3,0 mm
very thin
—
hemming
Size: 100
2,0
— 3,0 mm
very thin
—
effect
—
fabrics and glass
batiste are
particularly
suitable
81
Maintenance and fault-finding
I
E
r
Changing the needle plate
Cleaning and oiling
Changing the sewing lamp
Sewing problems and their solution
Page 84
Page 84
Page 85
Page 86
83
It is very important to clean and oil the sewing
machine, because it will reward you with a
longer service life. The more often you use
the machine, the more care it needs.
Removal:
Switch off the main switch
—
Raise the sewing foot and remove the
detachable work support.
—
Push the point of a small screwdriver into
the opening between needle plate and
sewing machine. Twist it lightly to the
right and the needle plate will snap half
way out of its mounting.
Now push the
screwdriver into the left opening and take
the needle plate out.
Replacing
Cleaning and oiling
Switch off the main switch
—
Remove the needle plate and lower the
feed dog.
—
Clean the feed dog and hook area with the
brush.
—
Then apply a drop of oil every 15 to 20
hours of operation) to the hook.
You can
see where to apply the oil in the illustration
and on the oil bottle supplied.
The machine is otherwise maintenance free
and must not be oiled.
—
Place the needle plate flat at the back and
push it down with both hands at the front
until you hear it snap in place. Before you
start sewing, check that the needle plate is
lying flat.
ILht
Changing the needle plate
84
Changing the sewing lamp
Switch off the main switch
Disconnect the mains plug and the toot
control plug from the machine.
--
Take off the detachable work support.
The sewing lamp Ibulb) is located inside the
needle head of the sewing machine
Removal
To make it easier to change the bulb we
recommend placing the sewing machine on
the hand wheel as illustrated.
—
Hold the sewing machine tightly
—
Push the bulb into its holder as far as it
will go, and turn it anticlockwise to remove
Insertion
Insert the bulb in the diagonal holder and
turn it so that both stops of the bulb
engage.
—
Now push the bulb fully into the holder
and turn it clockwise so that it is held
firmly.
Important!
The maximum permissible bulb wattage is
15 Watts!
85
Sewing problems and their solutions
Problem/cause:
1. The machine Skips stitches
Needle is not properly inserted.
Wrong needle is in use,
Needle is bent or blunt.
Machine is not properly threaded.
Needle is too small for thread.
2. Needle thread breaks
See reasons above
Thread tension is too tight.
Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or
has become dry after toolong storage.
Thread is too thick.
3. Needle breaks off
Needle is not pushed fully in.
Needle is bent.
Needle is too thick or too thin.
Needle is bent, and has hit the needle
plate because you are pulling or push’
ing the fabric
The bobbin case is not properly inserted
4. Seam is sewn unevenly
The tension needs adtusting.
Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.
The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.
Thread tangling at top or bottom side
of fabric.
5. Machine does not feed or feeds
irregularly
Sewing lint has collected between the
feed dog teeth rows.
Feed dog is lowered, slide B (see page
27 is at right.
6. The machine is running with difficulty
There are thread remnants in the hook race.
Remedy:
Push needle fully upwards,
flat side facing the back
Use needle system 130/705 H.
Insert a new needle
Check how machine is threaded
Use a larger needle
See above
Adjust thread tension
Only use good threads
Use needle with large eye (System 130 NI.
Insert new needle and push fully in.
Insert new needle
See needle chart Ipage 80. 81).
Let the machine teed the fabric.
Only guide the fabric lightly.
When you insert the bobbin case, push
it fully into the stop.
Check top and bottom tensions.
Only use perfect threads
Do not wind thread freehand, but run
it on through the winding tension.
Thread up correctly. Check needle and
bobbin thread tensions.
Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.
Push slide B (see page 27) to left.
Remove the threads and apply a drop of oil to
the hook.
The main switch must be turned off before sewing feet and needles are replaced Do not ope.
rate the threaded needle without fabric. When leaving the machine, even for short periods.
switch off the main switch. This is Important if there are any children nearby.
Important note:
86
G. M. Plaff
Aktiengesellschaft
Werk Karisruhe-Durlach
GritznerstraL,e 11
76227 Karlsruhe
Gedrucki in Deutschland
Druckerei Gablenz GmbH
76356 Weingarten, Stettiner StraSe 17
Technische Anderungen vorbehaften
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