Pfaff 6230 Instruction Manual

Specifications

Brand: Pfaff
Category: Sewing Machine
Model: 6230 (Instruction Manual)
File Type: PDF
File Size: 3.39 Mb
Pages: 89

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please fold this or the last page open when reading it. Safety rules For the United Kingdom only The leads must definitely not be connected to the safety lead terminal I nor to a plug with three pins. The wires in the mains lead are coloured according to the following code: Neutral Live As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colour coding of the terminals in your plug. proceed as follows: The wire which is coloured blue must be con nected to the terminal which is marked with the lettter N or coloured black. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured red. Cut-off mains plugs are definitely not to be used, but disposed of immediately. Defective mains leads must be replaced completely. Only 3 A spare fuses must be used as approved by ASTA according to BS 1362 and the fuse cover must be marked 3 A or with the corresponding colour code. The plug must never be used without fuse cover. Spare fuse covers are available from electrical suppliers or the PFAFF agencies. Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2. nfinIisfctentnPaZn> I I I I Blue: Brown:

Parts of the sewing machine (Models 6230 and 6150)

(1) Key for ,,slow sewing” (Model 6230) (2) Key for ,,needle down position” (Model 6230) (3) Key for ,,tacking” (Model 6230) (4) Carrying handle (5) Hand-wheel (6) Hand-wheel release disk (7) Fancy stitch knob (8) Main switch (9) Connection socket ,,mains cord” (Model 6230) Connection socket ,,foot control with mains cord” (Model 6150) (10) Touch controls (11) Stitch length knob (1 2) Connection socket ,,foot control” (Model 6230) (13) Base plate (14) Detachable work support (1 5) Sewing foot holder with sewing foot (16) Needle threader (17) Threading slit (1 8) Needle thread tension (19) Take-up lever (20) Presser bar lifter (21) Key for ,,reverse sewing” (22) Needle holder with fixing screw (23) Dual feed (top feed) (24) Reel holder with unwinding disk (25) Second spare reel holder (26) Lid with program table (27) Bobbin winder (28) Hook cover (29) Free arm (30) Thread trimmer (31) Sewing lamp (max. 15 watt) (32) Thread guide (33) Needle plate

Important safety instructions

For the United States only This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only. When you use an electric appliance, basic safety precautions should always be adhered to as fol lows: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1 The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning it. 2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts 3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately. 4 Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid. WARNING ro reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or Injury to persons: I Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children 2. Use this sewing machine only for ifs intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3 Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working pro perly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adlustment 4 Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6 Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol Isprayl products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn all controls to off (.01 position, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked. 10 Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord 11 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 1 2. Always use the proper needle plate The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 1 3. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only. 14 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break 1 5 Switch the sewing machine off l,.0”( when making any adjustments in the needle ai’ea, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc. 1 6. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual 17. Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel Do not allow plug to whip when rewinding. Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2 SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Notes on safety

Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines according to DIN 57 700, Section 28 or IEC 335, Section 28. 1. The user must exercise adequate caution with regard to the up and down moving of the needle and constantly observe the sewing area during work. 2. When leaving the machine, during maintenance work or when changing mechanical parts or accessories, always disconnect the machine from the mains by pulling out the mains plug. 3. The maximum permissible wattage for the sewing lamp is 15 Watts. 4. The tension of the drive belt must only be adjusted by a Pfaff mechanic. 5. The machine must be put into operation according to the indications on the specification plate. 6. Do not place any objects in openings on the machine. 7. Do not use the sewing machine if: — there is visible damage. its function is disturbed, — it is wet, e.g. with condensation. 8. Do not pull the mains plug out of the socket by its cord. 9. If this appliance is used for another pur pose than intended or if it is wrongly ope rated, we will not accept any liability for any damage caused. 10. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not open the machine. There are no paris inside the machine which the user can repair. This is solely the responsibility of our qualified service staff. 11. Be sure to use only original PFAFF parts. Environment The recommended environment is: Ambient temperature 10° C to 40° C, Humidity 20% to 80%. This sewing machine is a high-quality electro nic-mechanical appliance; it is a machine for supervised use in the home. It should be ope rated in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, sta tic electricity, heat-producing objects, cor rosive chemicals or liquids. For ventilation purposes the machine must be used on a free surface, which is both firm and even. Treatment Always protect the machine against damage by hitting or dropping. Cleaning Housing: To clean the housing, use a dry, clean and soft cloth which is free of fluff. To remove any stubborn dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol or paraffin. Please Note! Do not use any insecticides or chemical pro ducts such as petrol lgasl or thin chemicals for cleaning the housing. 2

— Sewing by puchbutton

control — Congratulations! You have bought a high-quality product that offers unique advantages. Your new sewing machine can take any material in its stride and will sew through thick and thin for you. It features the very latest in design and technology and this instruction book is Just as uncomplicated as your PFAFF sewing machine If you now take time enough to study the instruction book nothing can go wrong After all this is the only way to learn all the things the machine can do and to make full use of them If you have any further questions, that is no prob lem! Your PFAFF dealer will be at your service with any help or advice you need. So now you can get started! We wish you many enjoyable hours of creating your fashion ideas. 3

Accessories and needles

. 72 — 81 Accessory compartment 14 Applique 66 Appliqué foot 78 Bias tape binder . . . . 77 Blind stitch 38 Bobbin case. . 18, 19 Bobbin thread tension . . . 19 Bobbin winding . . . 15 — 1 7 Borders . . . . . . 62. 63, 64 Buttonholes . . . . . . . 46, 47 Changing the needle 26 Changing the needle plate . . . 84 Changing the sewing foot 23 Cleaning and oiling . . . . 84 Closed overlock stitch . . . . 42 Detachable work support 14 Cording foot . . . 76 Cording foot . . 78 Covering stitches . . . . 44. 45 Darning . . . . 51 — 53 Darning tears . . . 53 Darning with elastic stitch 52. 53 Darning with straight stitch . . . 51 Decorative stitches . . 61 — 64 Dual fabric feed 24, 25 Elastic stitch . 41 Elastic stitches 40 43 Electrical connection . 12, 13 Eyelet embroidery . 68 Fancy elastic knob. . 30 Fancy elastic stitch . . . . 45 Fancy stitch table . . 10 Faults. . . . 86 Foot control . . . . 1 3 Foot control . . . . 13 Free arm. . . . 14 Fringe foot 79 Function keys . . 31 Gathering foot . . 75 Gathering with elastic thread . 50 Gathering with straight stitch . 49 General sewing aids . . . . . . 35 Hand wheel release disk . . 1 5 Hem with the twin needle . 48 Hemstitching . . . . . - 69 Honeycomb stitch . . . . 41 Inserting bobbin . . . 16 Inserting patches . . . 52 Inserting zippers 54, 55 Lace work . 57 Lamp . . . . . . 85 Lap feller 75 Left needle position . 36 Linen buttonhole 47 Linen buttonhole with gimp thread . . 47 4

Lowering the feed dog

Main switch Maintenance and faults Monograms Multi4oot gathering foot. Needle chart Needle position. Needle thread tension Needle threader Nonelastic stitches - Oiling . Open overlock stitch Overlock stitches Pattern length . Pattern width Practical sewing Presser bar litter Puchbutton control Pulling up the bobbin thread Pullover stitch . . . - Quilting ..... Reverse sewing. Richelieu......... Right needle position Roll hemming Safety notes Serging with the overlock foot Serging with zigzag stitch Setting stretch stitch . Setting utility stitches. Sewing chart Sewing feet lspecial accessories( Sewing feet (standard accessories( Sewing lamp Sewing on buttons Sewing problems . . Shell edging Slow sewing Smocking . . . Special accessory table Stitch density . Stitch length control Straight stitch j Stretch triple straight stitch. Stretch triple zigzag stitch Tacking . J Thread tension Thread trimmer Threading . . Threading the needle thread Threading the sewing machine. Top feed. . . . Topstitching. Twin needle. Utility stitch chart . . Winding from a second reel holder Zigzag stitch 13 84—86 65 77 84 28,61 29,61 35—58 22 22 28 66 36 56 37 34,60 74 85 39 86 58 74 28 28 36 40 20 20 6—9 17

Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)

D E F G HI H HD ID IF K < < _: _: ,—‘ c—’ ‘ / I “ “ -‘ ‘- I I - ‘ I ( < ED ED c : “: , With these programs the stitch length can be set as required between 0 and 6 mm with the stitch length knob (11). Program Description Application A/B/C Buttonholes Standard buttonholes e.g. for blouses or bedclothes D/E/F Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué work. in various widths Straight stitch, For all sewing and topstitching work requiring needle position, left left needle position G Straight stitch, For all straight stitch and topstitch sewing jobs, needle position, center up to 6 mm stitch length HI Straight stitch, For all sewing and topstitching jobs requiring needle position, right a right needle position H Blind stitch, wide For securing seams invisibly on stronger fabrics HD Blind stitch, narrow For securing seams invisibly on finer materials I Greek stitch, wide A classical, decorative stitch i.e. for the borders on handkerchiefs ID Viennese stitch with Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles narrow zigzag IF Viennese stitch with Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles wide zigzag 1< Shell edging stitch, wide For decorative hem edges on light fabrics i.e. underwear 6

Utility stitch table (non-elastic stitches)

KU KG L LC LU LF LI M ME MF MG Program Description Application KD Elastic edge seam For securing seams of edges that do not fray very much KG Shelledging stitch For decorative hems on light fabrics e.g. for underwear L Fancy elastic stitch For overstitching two buttjoined plies LC Emperor stitch A dainty, decorative stitch LU King stitch A classical, decorative stitch for embroidering borders LF Emperor stitch, narrow A dainty, decorative stitch LI Greek stitch, narrow A classical, decorative stitch M Elastic stitch For sewing on rubber tape, darning tears and inserting patches ME Elastic blind stitch For securing seams invisibly and serging an edge at the same time — particularly for light, elastic fabric MF Elastic blind stitch For securing seams invisibly and serging an edge at the same time — particularly for strong elastic fabric MG Scallop stitch A classical decorative stitch for embroidered borders 7

Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)

D E F G Hi I H HO I HG I ID IF I IG I K I KO I KGI KM Ill lii ‘i I \I I 11/ I l’ ‘, I III I I ii \ii I i”i I / —‘ ‘.. ‘.‘. ‘.‘, I Ill Iii 0 “,ii I “,,ii ‘sit I i”..i ,,, , ,,— II Ih ill I —“i ..—‘ii —I ‘ ,.— — III Hi I iii __.—ii —ii ‘—‘— I i ‘, ‘. ‘.. JcD 1 E 1 c i”.,.i 1 /_”I 1 ”.j 1 1/,’ With these programs the stitch length knob (11) is turned right to the edge in the grey area i.e. ,,stretch”. Program Description Application D/E/F Stretch triple zigzag stitch For sewing elastic tape onto elastic materials in various widths Stretch triple straight stitch, For stretch seams requiring a left needle positio needle position, left G Stretch triple straight stitch, For stretch seams e.g. step seams as well needle position, center as seams in sportswear and working garments Hi Stretch triple straight stitch, For stretch seams requiring a right needle position, right needle position H Pullover stitch, wide Elastic closing and serging seams for rough jersey HD Pullover stitch, middle Elastic closing and serging seams for medium material quality HG Pullover stitch, narrow Elastic closing and serging seams for fine jersey I Closed overlock stitch wide A closing and serging seam for fraying material ID Turkish stitch A topstiching seam for patchwork and quilting IF Penant stitch A decorative, stretch stitch, also suitable as a covering stitch for stretch material lG Closed overlock stitch, A closing and serging seam, also for sewing narrow on lace K Opened overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for stronger materia that does not fray so much KO Peacock stitch with zigzag A decorative, stretch stitch for topstitching and fancy edges KG Peacock stitch with A decorative stitch for topstitching and fancy straight stitch edges KM Cord stitch A loose decorative seam 8

Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)

‘5’ -ii NJ \XI \..i XI /1,’ I I I J’t% I I ‘.ii ,X’ iii • III I I I \i\ “.i.\ ‘.i\ I 11/ L LD LF LI I LK LDK LEI LGK LMK f M I MD ME MF I MG ,“ I —I’ I I ll\ i I •.ii Xi 5 41 I X’ I \/\ I \I I 11/ I I -ii I I \)

11111 PIljjjljjjIIlj11111111 {fjjjjIIIIjlIlliii III1IIIUI

1 D II ill II a) 95a) Q) > C) 1 III,IqIIp C lilt ii jliiJlijifi ijlilIIil lj1i D _L ‘iii o 111111 liii! ‘liii iii!! iiIh 0 2 a) D C) iIlIIlidlTlIIiIllIiIIiIIIillTlhIlilUIi iilii. D (_ a) — —\ 1f”ilifJiTI”TN}ill[’’iTjiTHh[’lliilTl[ ijj r’ ci o a) a) 0 C- C) 0 ‘I ‘I stretch — i’ ii— i’’ il il’, Oil liii a) V 00 iillIllilillijillIiltIiijIllIlIliliillITllI!IfllIlIlllIliljI ::‘•— 2 ‘lIhi liii ‘IllIj >- a) I stretch ilillflililIiTliIII Tili11111111II iij 111111 a)a) — 2 01 tiiLiitl1 ..,iiLiilL..iiilL.i o c — — t °‘ I’ a) .0 llIlllhIIIllIIllhIIllIllIIli.ilIlllhlIliIIIliUlIlIlIll :>( stretch .r o 0 C C C o - x o 0 t -C C C) .2- a) a) — I Ih I ii I ih I ih I I Ii’ IIlilill,dlliitlh,.iili, it,, .. stretch C f C iihi ‘iii,i 1iIi ‘liii iil iiii il U) - 0 oC a) 0 C N stretch I C 2 — Oil)! liii)) liii! I)))))! 111111 1111111 Iiiiul ililh lniil 1111111 ii> 111111 11111 0Ii liii! 91111 111111 liii x E 0 0 -C _ _: . lIlIlllliiiIliliiIlIilIlllllililIliiiiiiiiiIiIiiilliliiIIIiil D iIl1IIt!IlII1111lIlIIl11hJIIIIIII1IIIIII111I j 1 stretch > C C a)> 0 0 LL

I pt onlc 6230

/ i!II ——— Operation of the sewing machine I Electrical connection page 1 2, 1 3 I Detachable work support page 1 4 Bobbins pages 15 — 17 Bobbin case pages 1 8, 1 9 Bobbin thread tension page 1 9 J Threading the needle page 20 Needle threader page 21 I Pulling up the bobbin thread page 22 Sewing foot lifter page 22 Thread trimmer page 22 I Changing the sewing foot page 23 Dual Feed page 24, 25 Top feed page 25 Changing the needle page 26 Needle thread tension page 27 Lowering the feed dog page 27 Reverse sewing page 28 -i Stitch length knob page 28 I Pushbutton controls page 29, 30 I Function keys page 31 11

Place the enclosed mains cord, foot control

and instruction book in the compartment of the carrying case. 0’ Programs The programs of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the top cover Top cover Open the folding cover (26) upwards. Electrical connection (Modell 6230) Connect the mains cord with the socket (9) the sewing machine and the wall socket F. Ii N N’ 12

Connecting the foot control (Model 6230)

Connect the plug of the foot control with the connection socket (12) of the sewing machine. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the pedal. Main switch Connect the plug of the foot control with the connection socket (9) of the sewing machine. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the pedal. The sewing speed can also be regulated with the slide control on the head of the foot control. Position = half speed Position 44 = full speed When the main switch (8) is switched on. the sewing lamp lights up. The sewing machine is now ready to use. - - Connecting the foot control (Models 6110. 6120. 6150) 13

Winding the bobbin from the reel holder

Place the sewing thread on the reel holder (24). To obtain free movement of the thread and hold the thread reel firmly, fit an unwind ing disk corresponding to the size of the thread reel. Threading Place the thread into guide A from behind an pull it through opening B to the right. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin. Switch on the main switch Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is ful the winding action will stop automatically. C the thread, push the bobbin to the left and A take it off. Remember: Turn the release disk (6) fully back again. Then turn the hand wheel (5) towards you until it snaps in. S 16

Winding from the second reel holder

Insert the second reel holder (25) in the hole provided and place a reel of thread on it. Threading Place the thread into guide C and pull it through opening B to the right. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bob bin. Switch on the main switch Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is full, the winding action will be stopped automati cally. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and take it off. Remember: Turn the release disk (6) fully back again. Then turn the hand wheel (5) towards you until it snaps in TIP: If the machine is already threaded, you can wind thread from the second thread reel without having to unthread the machine. I -4 I I I I I I 17

Switch off the main switch

Hold the hook cover (28) at the side and open it to the front. Thread tension Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull out the bobbin case. Release the latch and take out the empty bobbin. To obtain optimum seam appearance and durability make sure the needle and bobbin thread lensions are correctly adjusted to each other, i.e. Ihe threads are interlaced between the two fabric plies. For fancy seams and buttonholes the thread interlace should be visible on the reverse side of the fabric. Taking out the bobbin case 18

Inserting the bobbin

F Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case. When doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A, then under tension spring B until it rests in the opening (see arrow). Check: When you pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise. Checking the bobbin thread tension Hold the bobbin case by the thread and move your hand sharply upwards. The bobbin case must slip downwards a little with each hand movement. Correcting the tension: Turn adjusting screw C just a little to the left to decrease the bobbin thread tension. Turn screw C lust a little to the right to increase the tension. Inserting the bobbin case Lift cover F and push the bobbin case fully onto pin 0 of the sewing hook. Opening E of the bobbin case must face upwards. Check: Pull the bobbin thread sharply; the bobbin case must not fall out of the hook. 19

Threading the needle

Switch off the main switch. Raise the presser foot lifter (20). Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever (19) has moved to the top. Place the thread on the reel holder (24) and fit an unwinding disk o the right size. Now, using both hands, pull the thread into guide A and under thread guide hook D. P the thread through the threading slot (17) downwards. Pull the thread around stop E nto the righthand threading slot and upwar to the take-up lever (19). The thread must pulled into the take-up lever from left to rig Then pass the thread downwards again in t righthand threading slot and behind thread guide F. Finally pass the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides (32). To thread the needle, please refer to the ne page. PFAFF / D jA (/ F; b a V / 20

Needle threader (Models 6120. 6150. 6230)

The PFAFF needle threader (16) is an aid to make threading the needle easier and quicker. Lower the sewing foot (see next page). Turn the hand wheel until the needle is at its high est point. Piace the needle thread over hook o and hold it taut. Move the threader fully downwards and turn it towards the needle so that the small hook R goes through the needle eye. Place the thread into the hook from below. Turn the threader towards the rear, releasing the thread carefully, and allow the threader to move upwards. You can now pull the end of the thread through the needle eye. / 21

The sewing foot is raised or lowered with the

presser bar lifter (20). Drawing up the bobbin thread Raise the sewing foot. Hold the needle thr and turn the hand wheel towards you until needle is at the top again and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread. —r Bobbin thread Close the hook cover (28) and pull the thread under the sewing foot to the left. Pull the threads from the back to the front over the thread trimmer (30). I, Presser bar lifter Thread trimmer 22

Removing the sewing foot

Turn off the main switch Set the needle at its highest point. Press the sewing foot upwards at the front and down wards at the back at the same time so that it disengages from the sewing toot holder (15). Check: Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot holder (15) that the pins of the foot engage in the sewing foot holder when the presser bar lifter (20) is lowered. Please check that the sewing foot is properly engaged by raising the presser bar lifter. Engaging the sewing foot 23

The built-in dual fabric feed (Models 6120, 6150, 6230)

For sewing difficult materials PFAFF offers the ideal solution: built-in dual feed. As on industr sewing machines it feeds the material from the top and bottom at the same time. The fabric fed accurately. On light or difficult materials such as silk and viscose fabrics the dual fabric fee prevents seam puckering. The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics (see next page). 24

Disengaging the top feed

Hold the top feed with two fingers at the marked places. Push the top feed (23) down a little and out to the rear, and let it move slowly upwards (see also the illustration on page 24(. Engaging the top feed (Models 6120. 6150. 6230) Raise the sewing foot. Now push the top feed (23) so that it snaps in place Important! For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back. 25

Changing the needle

Switch off main switch To remove: Lower the sewing foot and set the needle at its highest point. Now loosen the Fixing screw (22) and pull the needle out downa rds. To insert: The flat side A of the needle must Face to the rear. Lower the sewing foot dnd insert the needle. pushing it up as far as it wil go. Hold the needle and tighten the fixing screw (22) firmly. [A 26

Setting the need’e thread tension

Set the required amount on the needle thread tension (18) using mark A The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5 For embroidering. darning and buttonhole sewing between 2 and 3. For certain sewing work, e g. darning, the feed dog has to be dropped. To do this, open the hook cover and press slide B fully to the right. Now the feed dog is lowered. I I I A J I Lowering the feed dog 27

The machine sews in reverse as long as the

reverse key (21) is kept pressed. Li AA You will find the symbol buttonhole bet ween the figure 0 arid 1. The optimal stitch density for sewing buttonholes is in this range. The stitch becomes more concentrated the farther you turn towards O Stitch length knob You can set the stitch length (11) from o to 6 mm infinitely with the stitch length knob, by turning to the marking for the desi red stitch length. You must turn the stitch length knob (11) as far as it will go to sew the stretch stitches with a grey background. PFAFF tiptr 1 11A) L fl1 Al 28

Setting utility stitches

Under the id (26) you can find the program PFAFF tiptronic 6230 table with all the stitches and stitch combina tions. On model 6230 the most important stitches are additionally illustrated on the lighted display. Each program has been given a letter that you can find on the bushbutton controls. If the right button is pressed the program is selec T— I A1 ted and the machine is ready to sew. Key B releases the keys that have been activated. If key G on models 6150 and 6230 is pressed ‘ 4 A A A again the width of the stitches can be redu ced by half. Setting stretch stitches All the stitches with a grey background are PFAFF tiptronic 6230 stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material. Press the selected key down and turn the stitch length knob (11) right to the edge of the grey area. Key B releases the keys that have already been activated. On models 6150 and 6230 if key G is pressed again the width of the stitches can be reduced by half. .4 Important: When sewing with utility stitches with models 6150 and 6230 the _ 1 ).4j4J fancy stitch knob (7) must be switched off, i.e. turned to• j I 29

Utility and stretch stitch combinations

AIAAA By striking two or several keys you can combinations in the utility stitch range The stitch length knob can either be set utility sewing range or in the stretch rang All the stitch combinations are illustrated the program table in the lid. You can re keys that are already activated with key PFAFF tiptronic 6230 MdinGem..’y I Fancy stitch knob (Models 6150 and 6230) Each fancy stitch has been given a letter. Select a fancy stitch from the program table and turn the fancy stitch knob (7) to the cor rect letter under the marking. The stitch length is between 0,5 and 1 mm Fancy stitches and combinations (Models 6150 and 6230) Pattern combinations can be produced by pressing the keys together with the fancy stitch knob. You will find the setting on p 10. The stitch length is between 0,5 and mm. For stretch” you must turn the stitch len knob upwards as far as it will go, i.e. into grey area. PFAFF tiptronic 6230 0— 30

Function keys (Model 6230)

The tiptronic has three function keys. 1. Sewing slowly When key (1) slow sewing’ is pressed the green diode lights up. The sewing machine now sews at half speed. If the key is pressed again the green diode is extinguished and the machine sews at full speed again. 2. Needle position up/down Each time sewing is interrupted the needle automatically goes to its highest position. If key (2) is pressed the diode lights up. The needle now remains in the material each time there is an interruption in sewing. If you press the key again the diode is extinguished and the needle automatically goes up again. 3. Tacking If key (3) ,,tacking” is pressed the green diode lights up. The machine now only sews one stitch when the foot control is activated. If the key is pressed again the diode is extinguished together with the function. I I I I I it 31

General sewing aids

Nonelastic stitches Elastic stitches Overlock stitches Covering stitches Buttonhole Hems with twin needle Smocking Gathering Darning Inserting zippers Rollhemming Sewing lace Shelledging page 34 pages 35 pages 36 — 39 pages 40, 45 pages 42, 43 pages 44, 45 pages 46, 47 page 48 page 48 pages 49, 50 pages 51 — 53 pages 54, 55 page 56 page 57 Page 58 Utility stitches and practical sewing 33

Explanation of the sewing chart

The following charts show the recom mended settings that you require for the relevant sewing operations. These charts also provide you with further instructions that are necessary when sewing the selected programs: The choice of the sewing foot, the setting of the needle thread tension and whether the sewing is carried out with the top feed switched on or off. a Models 6120 — 6230 b Model 6110 prog Program pattern Stitch length in mm Stitch width in mm ....... Top feed engaged on• -- disengaged off 0 n Needle thread tension Number of the sewing foot 34

Needle thread tension

In order to obtain perfect sewing results the needle and bobbin thread tensions must be correctly adapted to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is 3 to 5. Check the tension using a wide zigzag stitch. The interlace of the two threads must lie in the middle of the two fabric plies. If the interlace lies on the top side of the fabric, this means the needle thread tension is too tight. If it lies on the reverse side, the needle thread tension is set too loose. To adjust the bobbin thread tension, please refer to page 19. With programs G and HI you can change the needle position in such a way that you can always guide the sewing foot along the fabric edge for topstitching work. If you wish to topstitch at a wider width than this, simply guide the fabric along the guide marks on the needle plate, or use edge guide 8. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and is secured with fixing screw F. I. Sewing aid for thick seams To ensure correct feeding at the beginning of the seam we recommend placing a piece of fabric of the same thickness as the work under the sewing foot to support it. Topstitching 35

Basting stitch (Mode) 6230)

With key (3) basting you can baste a gar ment before trying it on. When you press the foot control the machine will only make one stitch. For each further stitch you have to press the foot control each time, — Lower the bottom feed and disengage the top feed. — Place the fabric under the sewing foot. — Sew one stitch, then pull the fabric to the rear by the required amount. — Repeat this as many times as you need to finish the work. TIP: To prevent the material plies from shifting, insert dress pins crosswise to the basting direction, Light fabrics are easier to baste with long straight stitches (6 mm). Then you do not need to lower the bottom feed. Program G is the basic straight stitch with middle needle position. The stitch length can be increased up to 6 mm as required. Some sewing jobs can be done easier by changing the needle position, e.g. topstitching a collar or sewing in a zipper. You have a choice of three needle positions. Needle position on the left — release all the keys with key B. Needle position in the middle — key G Needle position on the right — key H and I When adjusting the position of the needle please make sure it is in the highest position. prog Straight stitch 36

With keys D, E and F you can alter the width

of the zigzag stitches from 2 to 6 mm. By combining the keys DIE or E/F you obtain additional widths When serging the edge, always make sure the needle goes into the material and over the edge alternately For serging difficult materials, blind stitch foot No. 3 is very useful. While sewing, the thread lies over pin C. thus preventing curling of the fabric edge In this way you can sew beautiful smooth seams. The edge of the cutting has to be guiding along edge guide B. You can adjust this edge guide with adjusting screw A. important: Only use the blind stitch foot with key F. 37

Blind stitch H is best suited for invisible hems;

sewing by hand is unnecessary. — Serge the edge of the hem. — Fold the edge inwards by the hem width. — Now unfold the hem again so that the hem edge protrudes by about half an inch. — Now place the fabric under the sewing foot so that the crease line runs along edge guide B. — When the needle enters the crease line it must only pick up one fibre of the fabric. -J -J Th< — Program MF/Stretch is a blind stitch for elastic materials (except model 6110). The hem is sewn and serged at the same time, i.e. it is not necessary to serge the fa edge. If the stitches are visible on the face side, adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting screw A. Blind stitch 38

Sewing on buttons with stems

— Insert the sewing foot. — Place a match between the holes of the button and sew it on as described on the left. Sewing on buttons With orogram E you can sew on two and four- hole buttons with no problem at all — Remove the sewing foot and lower the feed dog. — Turn the hand wheel towards you and posi tion the button so that the needle enters the left hole in the button. — Now lower the presser bar lifter; the button is now held by the shank of the foot. - Now sew on the button. Make sure that the needle also enters the right hole in the button. Then release with key B and the needle automatically goes into the left hand posi tion - — Now sew with a few stitches. Make sure that the needle enters in the left hole of the jiittnii Remove the match and pull the button and fabric apart. — Wrap the stem with sewing thread and knot ii. I I I prog Li 39

D E F

StrpcP 4 6 3 5 0 Stretch triple straight stitch This program is used for sewing all seams where great strength is needed, e.g. inside trouser seams. The farther you turn the stitch length knob, the longer the stitch length. Stretch triple zigzag stitch The stretch triple zigzag stitch is a highly elastic and decorative seam which is very suitable for hems on T-shirts and underwear. — Serge the edge of the hem. — Fold the hem inwards at the required width. — Topstitch the hem from the face side. 40

I Stretch I

6 • 3-5 0/1 [ bIMI125161._13-510I bMIStretchI6I_I35I0I Elastic stitch Owing to its high elasticity this stitch is used for sewing on elastic tapes, e.g. on underwear. Cut off the old elastic tape close to the edge. — Gather the fabric with 6 mm long straight stitches. Push the part prepared in this way between the elastic tape, or place it underneath, and pin it firmly in place. -. Sew it on with elastic stitch. Leave the ends of the elastic tape overlapping a little and sew over them with elastic stitches. On skirts or trousers the elastic tape is sewn onto the prepared edge with elastic stitch. Honeycomb stitch Honeycomb stitch is used for elastic and decorative hemming, and is very suitable for hems on underwear and T-shirts. — Fold the edge of the hem over double and overstitch it. 41

What is an overlock stitch?

For knitted and other stretch materials the models with pushbutton controls offer a selection of overlock stitches. These join two plies of fabric and serge them in one opera tion. They have a higher elasticity than usual seams, they are more durable, and you can sew them fast, too. Closed overlock stitch TIP: When you sew overlock seams, we recommend you use blind stitch foot No. 3. It Program I is ideal for sewing jersey fabrics guides the fabric better and prevents contrac especially. You can use it for sewing on tion of the seam at wider stitch widths sleeve cuffs or knitted collars durably, too. TIP: Make sure that the cuff is stretched while sewing. ,‘ prog > H a K Sreich 6 • 3-5 0/1 3 b1KStretch 61- ]35j03j Open overlock stitch With this stitch it is no problem to loin firm materials or fabrics which do not fray too much. TIP: Make sure that the needle in its righthand position just misses the edge of the material. 42

.. _4 •4 .s.•-_’ a-

4 _ ‘_4 4.44?_A II • I _4_ _4,_•,,,-e 4 • a- , ., I — A — — 4?— %-‘‘ 4? _i I -‘—- “ I •-_‘_ ‘,‘—,.-:—-—- -..-> 3 ‘, —‘-. ,‘- __•4__ ‘, - — I -; — Aa, -* — —4. I > I -‘:.4:%—-- Pullover stitch This stitch is suitable for open knit fabrics Fully fashioned parts can be easily sewn together with it Make sure that the material is led to the right of the needle not to the left TIP: To prevent the seam from stretching open while joining, it is advisable to add a woollen thread under slight tension. 43

With fagoting stitch you can make very elastic

seams with hemstitching effect, eg. on corsetry. — Serge the fabric edges and tack baste over on the inside. — Place the fabric under the sewing foot with the edges about 1/8 of an inch apart. — Sew on the face side, making sure the needle enters the material on the right and left side. What is a covering stitch? You can use the following programs for sewing a flat covering seam. This produces the typical ,,flatlock effect” which lends a professional look to collar plackets or raglan seams. 44

Fancy elastic stitch

Fancy elastic stitch is very useful for materials that need a flat seam, e.g. terry cloth. — Place the two fabric edges so that they overlap by about 3/4 of an inch and over- stitch each edge with fancy elastic stitch. Pennant stitch Pennant stitch is one of the many covering stitches. Since it can be stretched it is parti cularly suitable for overstitching the bands on elastic material e.g. sweat shirts or sports wear. — Sew the band onto the part with overlock stitch. — The seam allowance can now be over stitched from the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the needle enters in the shadow of the seam. 45

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all the

models with pushbutton controls since the fabric does not have to be turned. 8uttonholes are generally sewn onto a piece of doubled fabric. However, for some materials, e.g. silk, organza and viscose, it is necessary to use silk paper backing to prevent the material from contracting while sewing. Avalon (by Madeira) is ideal for this purpose. It is a special nonwoven fibre which dissolves when it comes into contact with water. For materials such as velvet, leather or thick woollens, which are difficult to feed, it can be placed over or under the fabric. In this way the material is not braked and buttonholes are much easier to make. To produce beautiful seams, embroidering or darning threads are ideally suitable. Mark the starting point of the buttonhole either with a magic pen or dress pin, and always sew a sample buttonhole first. Note: Before starting any buttonhole, always push the guide of the buttonhole foot fully to the front. i.e. so that the red arrow is at the first red mark. The red marks are arranged at an interval of 0,5 cm. They are a guide when fixing the length of the buttonhole. 46

Insert the buttonhole slide and push it fully

to the front. — Press key C and sew the first seam to the required length. Then press key B. Keep it pressed and sew a few stitches for the bartack, while holding the material securely. Then press key A and sew back the second seam to the same length. Now press key B again and sew a few bar tack stitches, while holding the material securely. — When the key is released the needle jumps to the left position and you can sew up the buttonhole with a few stitches. — Cut the buttonhole open with a pair of scissors or a seam ripper. To produce highly durable buttonholes, e.g. for sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread. For all stretchable materials, too, a gimp thread is very important, in order to avoid overstretching of the buttonhole. — Place the gimp thread over the back ridge A and pull the thread ends under the sewing foot to the front. Pull the threads into the left and right of ridge B. — Push the buttonhole slide fully forward. then sew the buttonhole. — Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and cut off the loose thread ends. Linen buttonhole with gimp thread 47

-- ,, t.*

., Lit i. -jiI’tt’ ‘t, t .t i.r I’’Iv progi I -_-I 23;i Ta G I i — • 3.510/h bIGl3-13-510I Sewing hems with the twin needle With the twin needle you can not only embroider, but also make topstitch seams. Using the twin needle you can add a profes sional touch to hems on stretch materials such as T shirts, knitted articles or cycling shorts both quickly and easily. Twin needles are available in different widths. The most common is 4 mm. Do not forget to use only jersey needles for stretch fabrics. — First iron the hem over at the required width. — Then stitch the hem through from the face side of the fabric. Finally, trim the overlapping hem edge back to the Seam. TIP: On difficult fabrics such as ribknits It is easier to baste the hen over before topstitch ng To thread the twin needle, please refer to page 64. Fine light materials such as batiste, viscose or silk are particularly suitable for effective smocking. When smocking with an elastic thread you should use an additional bobbin case and wind the elastic thread by hand. Since elastic thread is a lot thicker than the normal bobbin thread the tension of the bob bin case must be set loosely. The general rule is the stronger the bobbin thread tension the greater the gathering effect. — Sew a sample seem to check the degree Or gathering. — Mark the first line on the face of the fabric You can sew each additional row a sewing foot away from the first row. — When sewing several rows side by side you must pull the material while sewing since otherwise the gathering is uneven. — Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the rows on the reverse side of the mate rial. Smocking effect with elastic threads 48

Gathering with straight stitch

With Program G at a stitch length of 6 mm you can gather sleeves, skirts or valances. To obtain a neat and even gather you should sew two or three gathering seams. - Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and stitch along it. Leave about four or five inches of thread protruding at the end. You can now stitch the other seams at sewing foot width using the first one as a guide. Now gather the part by pulling the bottom threads. You determine the amount of gather yourself — Finally, knot the thread ends together to secure the gather. ... 49

TIP: The cording foot (special accessory) is

Gathering sleeves or waist seams is no pro also ideal for gathering. The grooves in this blem at all with elastic threads. The elastic foot guide the elastic evenly during the sewing thread must not be wound onto the bobbin, operation. — Mark the first gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric. -. Make a few starting stitches using program M, then leave the needle down in the fabric. The needle must be at the middle of the sewing foot. Raise the sewing foot and place the elastic thread around the needle. — Lower the sewing foot again and sew a few more stitches, but do not pull the ends of the elastic thread until these are sewn. — From then on you determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull on the elastic thread. After sewing you can still change the amount of gather by pulling both elastic threads. — Finally, knot the threads and the elastic. ( Gathering with elastic threads 50

Darning with the straight stitch

Insert the darning foot: Set the needle at its highest position and push the pin of the darning foot fully into hole C. When you do this, guide fork G places itself around the presser bar. Wire E must be behind fixing screw F. Now tighten screw D. Darning position: Lower the presser bar lifter and push it lightly to the rear. This positions the presser bar lifter into notch E (darning position). Place the darning work in the darning hoop. — Lower the feed dog. — Draw up the bobbin thread and hold the threads when you start sewing. — Darn over the damaged area by moving the part evenly in the required direction. When doing so, move the part in shallow curves. This prevents tearing of the darn later. — When you have stitched evenly over the darning area, turn the fabric by 90 degrees and darn over the damaged area again. You determine the stitch length for this work yourself, by moving the part back and forth. TIP: If small knots appear on the reverse side, this means you have been moving the part too slowly. 51

Darning with elastic stitch

Darning with elastic stitch is also a very suitable means of repairing damaged fabric. — Sew over the damaged area with rows of stitches until it is well covered. When doing so, make sure the stitch rows overlap each other. Sewing on patches The best way to darn larger holes is to cover the damaged area with a piece of new mate rial. — Baste the piece of new material onto the damaged area from the face side. -. Overstitch its edges with elastic stitch. — Now cut back the damaged material up to the seam on the reverse side. TIP: In order to turn at the corners more easily with model 6230. use the needle down” function. 52

2fl Z - D DO • : V _ 0 Q E’ (0 CDE_ r • 0 — 3 o a DD COO 0 3 00 0 -, 0 — D—43c LD oC0 . 0 = aoO C) ci, ci, 0 — D-, 00 ci,

Sewing in zippers

There are different ways to sew in zippers. For skirts we recommend inserting the zipper concealed on both sides, and for men’s or ladies’ slacks concealed on one side. Different types of zippers are available in shops and stores. For tough materials such as denim we recommend metal zippers, and plastic zippers for all other materials. For all types of zippers it is important to sew right up close to the teeth of the zipper. This is why the zipper foot can be engaged in the foot holder to the left or right, depending on the method of insertion. Using one of the three needle positions you can also set the needle so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth. If the sewing toot is engaged on the right side, the needle position must only be changed to the right, If the foot is engaged left, the needle must only be moved to the left. — Engage the zipper foot to the right side. — Place the zipper under the sewing foot so that the teeth run at the side of the foot. — Sew in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the material, raise the sewing foot and close the zipper. — Now you can sew the rest of the seam to the end of the zipper and stitch the cross wise seam. Inserting zippers concealed on both sides > -—- L 54

— Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at

the same distance. Stop shortly before the end of the seam and leave the needle in the material. Raise the sewing foot and open the zipper. — You can now sew to the end of the seam. — Shortly before the end of the seam, open the zipper and finish sewing the seam. — Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly onto the other zipper half. — Afterwards stitch along the basted seam. TIP: To achieve accurate seams we recom mend using the edge guide. Trouser zippers — Iron the seam margin over, making sure there is an overlap of about 15/32) 4 mm. — Baste the zipper under the overlapping edge so that the teeth are still visible. — Engage the zipper foot on the right and set the needle at the required position. Stitch close along the edge of the zipper. 55

With the hemmer you can rollhem blouses,

silk fabrics or valances with no problem at all and without having to iron the edges before hand Hemming secures the edges against fraying and produces a tidy and durable edge finish. — Fold the fabric edge over double (about (5/64) 2 mm per fold). — Place the folded fabric edge under the hemmer and sew a few stitches. — Leave the needle in the material. Raise the sewng foot and push the fabric Into the scroll of the hemmer. — Lower the sewing foot and guide the fabri edge evenly in the hemer. When doing so make sure the fabric does not run under t right side of the sewing foot. TIP: For sIlk, vScuse or Qhlffor rnateriots o rolled hem looks better with Ljziq stitches 56

You can produce a beautiful effect on

christening wear or other children’s clothes with lace inserts, First baste the lace to the face side of the fabric. — Stitch both edges of the lace with a narrow margin. — Cut open the fabric under the lace at the middle and iron it over to the side. — Stitch over both edges of the lace with small and dense zigzag stitches. — Cut back the waste material. Lace edges Lace trimmings provide many new ways of designing and enhancing home textiles. This is the way to do it: First serge the raw edges. Stitch the lace onto the face side up to the first corner. — Fold the corner and stitch over it diagonally. — All other sides are done in the same way. .3 - .‘-- ..— 5]

Shell edging is very effective for thin, soft

fabrics such as silk and viscose materials. It is frequently used as an edge finish on under wear, too. The tighter you set the needle thread tension the farther the shell edging is pulled in Serge the raw edge and iron the seam margin over to the left. While sewing, make sure that the fabric runs under the sewing foot at half the foot width, only. This provides a more promi nent shell edging effect TIP: If you add a coloured wool thread at the edge you can strengthen the shell edging and obtain a pretty contrast at the same time instead of a woollen thread you can also place a different coloured light fabric underneath. • • - : • • P’-, -; • -- •;,‘‘r’J;. - ‘•; --: - •-- i’_ .- —. -• , ,• • •• -,•4 _-, -,‘- •.;_ 58

Sewing table for embroidery

Decorative stitches Monograms Appliqué Richelieu Quilting Eyelet embroidery Hemstitching page 60 page 61 — 64 page 65 page 66 page 66 page 67 page 68 page 69 Decorative and traditional I 59

To enhance your own home textiles or gar

ments the models 6150 and 6230 offer you a S whole host of fancy and decorative stitches to choose from. You can produce even greater embroidery variations by selecting different combinations, colours or sizes. For embroi dery work we recommend using special embroidery threads which are available from your Ptaff dealer. For the parts to be embroidered you should either use an iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric. This prevents the material from contracting. You can mark out the embroidery pattern with a magic pen or marking chalk. These lines will dissolve after a few hours or can be ironed away. The following recommendations apply to all embroidery work: The stitch length and width can be altered as desired. 60

Changing the pattern length

You can vary the pattern length infinitely with the aid of the stitch length knob. The stitch density for embroidery is generally in the but tonhole range. The larger the stitch density you set is, the farther the pattern is stretched apart. Changing the pattern width The machine automatically Sets a stitch width of 6 mm for the fancy stitches. If you wish to alter the width select key G at the same time. All the stitches are now reduced by half i.e. reduced to a width of 3 mm. / / j 1 I I I I I I I I I I 61

By combining different embroidery programs

you can embroider borders of any width. Madeira embroidery threads are very suitable. They are available in many colour shades and different sizes. However, only use one thread size for one piece of embroidery work. — Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric. — Embroider over the marked middle point with program V/F. After that, turn the fabric and sew the border back again in reverse. — Embroider stitch U parallel to it. — Finally, add program X to every fifth zigzag point. In this border embroidery example multi coloured embroidery thread is used as an additional effect. — Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric. — Embroider over the marked middle with program M/D/F. Then turn the fabric and sew the border back again in reverse. — Embroider program UIG parallel to it. — You can now stitch the straight row with program DIE and the final zigzag row with program U/F. 62

Borders with a combination of stitches

By combining different embroidery keys as desired you can easily achieve other embroi dered effects. This is a simple and pleasing way to embellish tablecloths and garments. — Apply iron-On backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric. — Mark the centre with tailors chalk. — You can now begin with the combination M/F Stretch. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse. — Then sew close to the first border with the combination L/G/K Stretch. — LIE Stretch completes the border. >.. > >, >>>.. >>. Combinations with coloured thread An additional effect can be produced with dif ferent coloured thread. Multicolour thread was used for the middle border in this example. You can obtain it in a great variety of shades from our PFAFF dealer. — Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric. -. Mark the middle with tailors chalk. -. You can now begin with the combination MIF Stretch. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse. Then sew close to the first border with the combination LIGIK Stretch. — LIE Stretch completes the border. b N N L N N N L N L N L. ‘4 ‘4 63

You can achieve further embroidery effects by

using the twin needle. The illustrations show what beautiful borders can be made with a little imagination. Note: Only use a twin need with a width of 2,5 mm for all embroidery. Threading the twin needle — Insert the twin needle. Fit the second reel holder and place one reel of thread on each holder In the left threading slot (17) you will find tension disk C. While threading, make sure that you pass one thread left and one thread right over tension disk C. — Place the threads farther than normal, but make sure the threads are not twisted with each other. — Pull the threads right and left into thread guide (32) and thread the needles 64

No matter whether you work on terry cloth or

woven fabric, with the darning foot and pro grams D, E or F you can monogram any initi als of your own design. Freehand guiding, however, needs a little practice in the beginning. — Transfer the initials with the magic pen to the part to be embroidered. — Lower the feed dog and insert the darning foot (see page 51). — Place a piece of Avalon on the fabric. — Tauten the part in an embroidery hoop and embroider it with the zigzag stitch. Do not forget to use the darning position — Knot the threads and pull off the Avalon (Any waste is dissolved in water). TIP: If you sew fast but move the material slowly, the stitches will be made dense. On terry cloth the monogram must first be presewn with narrow zigzag stitches and then oversewn with a wider zigzag stitch This makes sure the terry cloth loops are properly covered. Block capitals are a little easier to embroider. The feed dog does not need to be lowered, i.e. no freehand guiding is required. All you have to do is stitch along the marked lines using programs 0. E or F. — Apply iron-on backing or place paper underneath. — Mark the monogram on the fabric. — Now embroider the marked lines with the zigzag stitch. - I. Id Ii % 4. 44.. 65

Appliqués are quickly made and always pro

duce a beautiful fancy effect. By using diffe rent materials and patterns you can obtain variations galore. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the applique foot (special accessoriesf, because it has a special cutout on its sole for the zigzag seam. — Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing machine Transfer your drafted pattern to the face side, smooth side, of the fusible backing fabric. Remember that any letters or num bers have to be drawn as a mirror image. Now iron the backing fabric onto the appli qué material. Cut the motif out and pull the paper off — Place and iron on the applique parts on the base material. — Afterwards overstitch all contours with nar row and dense zigzag stitches D or E Also make sure the needle passes the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later. This very artistic form of bar and eyelet embroidery is easy to make with your sewing mach me. — Transfer your pattern onto the face side of the fabric using the magic pen. — Then place two plies of embroidery Avalon backing under the area to be embroidered and tauten the fabric and backing in an embroidery hoop. — Insert foot number 0. — To make the embroidery more stable, sew around all contours double with a straight stitch of approx. 1 mm length. — After that, carefully cut out the fabric from the areas that will form the cutouts at about 2 mm along their contours, but do not cut away the backing material. — Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag stitch. — The backing material provides this part of the work with much more shape and stabi lity. — Finally, all you have to do is dissolve the Avalon embroidery backing in water, and your piece of individually made embroidery is ready. 1 Appliqué work Richetieu 66

Quilting is a traditional sewing technique. The

method that the wives of American settlers developed to make use of material remnants has become an artistic hobby with many enthusiasts in our country, too. A quilt always consists of three layers of material. Lots of geometrically shaped pieces of material are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the auilt. This is tacked onto the middle layer made of polyester padding and connected to the back layer of the quilt that usually consists of one uniform piece of material The entire quilt is often also bordered with the back layer. Of course, the work of piecing the individual bits of material together must be very precise. Trie Dual Feed is of particular assistance when doing this. Cut out the parts of your quilt with templates you have bought or made your self. A seam allowance of 0,7 cm should already be included in the templates. — Spread out the parts as in the pattern and form small squares that you can match together. These squares are then sewn together to form the surface of the quilt. — The seam allowances of quilts are not serged up but just smoothed out — never ironed 1 In traditional quilts these three layers of material are sewn together by hand with small stitches — but it is quicker and more practical with the sewing machine e.g. with the program ID stretch or L stretch. There is always stitching about 3 mm beside the seam. Embroidered stitches look very good on plain coloured material. Use foot number 0 for this work. When your quilt is finished you can make it into cushions, wall hangings or bed covers. And this is what you do. 67

Traditional eyelet embroidery which long ago

had to he made laboriously by hand can be made quite easily with the help of an eyelet plate Ispecial accessory). This is very etfective on blouses, bed or table linen Practically all stitch types are suitable for this utility stitches such as a zigzag stitch, blind stitch, elastic stitch or fancy stitches (Models 6150, 6230). For classic eyelet embroidery, program E or F are very suitable. Remove the sewing foot. — Set the presser bar lifter in darning position Isee page 511. — Place the eyelet plate on the needle plate, making sure pin A fits in the middle cutout of the needle plate. Then push the plate down at the tront. — Place the marked fabric taut in an embroi dery hoop. Cut one or two of the fabric threads and push the fabric over the pin in the eyelet plate. The fabric must fit snugly around the pin. Draw up the bobbin thread and hold it for the first few stitches. — You can now stitch around the cut with the selected program. By doing this it is impor tant to turn the fabric slowly and evenly. The stitches should be very close to each other — Afterwards secure with straight stitches. liP: If you choose another program, e g. a fancy stitch with model 6150 or 6230 or a blind stitch, the cut will only be partly stitched around, or not at all. To complete this, just select key A afterwards and stitch evenly around the cut. Eyelet embroidery 68

3-9- ...3 C

DID D C—CD® DC 3 g < , 2. -°2 DCCD g g - DC DCCD 03 - V 3 3-DC CD C) 3- DC 3- 3- DI 0.3 -nQ —CD 03 a 3 CD — CDCD CDDCC, CD CD .0 CD 3-CD DC CC. CD DC II) 3 3 0. CD 0) (0 0 0 X CD —3- 3-CD DC 3- . DCCD CD -3 3 DC gCD CD 01 3- C, CDCD CD 3-DC 3 (DO (fl 30. 0 C 0 0 ® CDI :3 3 CD 0 I!

Accessories and needles

Sewing feet (normal accessories) Special accessory table Felling foot Gathering foot Cording foot Bias binder Multistitch gatherer Cording foot Appliqué foot Fringe foot Needle table pages 72, 73 page 74 page 75 page 75 page 76 page 77 page 77 page 78 page 78 page 79 pages 80, 81 71

Sewing feet (accessories)

K. o Normal sewing foot Part No. 98-694 816-00 (Model 6120—6230) Part No. 98-694 847-00 (Modell 6110) Fancy stitch foot for top feed Part No. 98-694 814-00 (Model 6120 — 6230) NO I(O Clearviewfoot L,(Q (Fancy stitch foot not suitable for top feed> Part No. 98-694 864-00 (Model 6110— 6230) LJILc PvT j) q’ çv-9-’ -. tSfr rV 1fA1 $4 A S’T 3 Blind stitch and overlock foot Part No. 98-694 890-00 (Model 6120— 6230) Part No. 98-694 845-00 (Model 6110) 4 Zipper and edge sewing foot Part No. 98-694 884-00 (Model 6120—6230> Part No. 98-694 843-00 (Model 61101 72

Sewing feet (accessorlesi

5 Buttonhole foot Part No. 98-694882-00 (Model 6110 — 6230) 6 Darning foot Part No. 93-035960-91 (Model 6110 6230) For Model 6110 special accessory 7 Hemmer Part No. 98-694818-00 (Model 6110 — 6230) For Model 6110 special accessory 8 Edge guide Part No. 98-802422-00 (Model 6110 — 6230) Second spool holder 9333vC3 -‘t Seam ripper Brush Oil tube (. R 73

Sewing feet special accessory)

Special accessories are intended for special sewing work. They are available at a charge from your dealer. Accessory Part number Sewing work Appliqué foot 93-042941-91 For appliqué work Bias binder 98-053484-91 For binding edges with (remove foot holder( bias tape Cording foot, 5 grooves 93-042950-91 (twin needles with needle spacing 1 6 to 20) Cording foot, 7 grooves 93-042953-91 For cording work (twirl needles with needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0) (needle size 801 Cording tongue (2( 93.03595245 Fringe foot 93-042 943-91 For sewing loop embroidery Straight stitch foot with round hole 98-69482 1 -00 Caution’ Only use straight stitch in middle needle position! Needle plate with round hole 98-694822-00 For top-stitching seams and sewing very light and soft materials (silk jersey. etc.) Lap-feller, 4.5 mm 93-042946-91 For lap-feller seams Lap-feller, 6.5 mm 93-042 948-91 For lap-feller seams Gathering foot 93-036998-91 For gathering frills, etc. Mu)tistitch gathering foot 98-999650-00 For placing dense or loose (remove foot holder) pleats on frills, etc. Cording foot 93-036915-91 For cording Eyelet plate 93-036976-45 For eyelet embroidery Roll hemmer, 2 mm 98-694873-00 For hemming edges Hemmer, 4 mm (for top teed( 98-694823-00 For hemming edges Hemmer (not for top feed 61 1 0( 98-694818-00 For hemming edges Knit edge foot 93-042957-91 For sewing knitted fabrics Darning foot (model 61 10( 93-035960-91 For darning damaged parts Teflon foot 93-0369 1 7-91 For sewing leather and synthetics The following pages contain application examples of some special accessories. 74

Lap-feller seams are not only ornamental but

strong, too. This makes them very suitable for sportswear and children’s wear, men’s shirts and Jeans. You can make these seams very effective if you use a sewing thread of a con trasting colour. Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by about 3/8’ to 5/8’. — Now place this overlapping edge over the tongue of the lap felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the sewing foot — Sew along the folded edge with straight stitch. — Afterwards separate the fabric and feed the protruding hem into the lap-feller The hem is turned over by the foot and is over- stitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric plies apart during sewing Gathering foot Beautiful gathering effects, e.g. on children’s wear or curtains, can be made quickly and easily with the gathering foot. Gathering by hand is no longer necessary. — Engage the gathering foot by hooking the rear bar of the foot into the rear groove of the foot holder Push the foot upwards until it snaps into the front bar. Place the fabric to be gathered under the sewing foot, and the gatherfree fabric from the top through the foot cutout. The fabric parts lie face side to face side — While stitching you must pull the top fabric a little. The harder you pull, the greater the gathering effect you achieve. Be sure you guide the fabric edges evenly through the foot. — Disengage the gathering foot by pushing it down at the front, and take it Out to the back over the groove of the sewing foot holder. TIP: You can also regulate the amount of gather by adjusting the needle thread tension and the stitch length. I Lap-feller I progi I I I I a G - La tt erin 3 1 — I — 13-51 foot — Place the fabric reverse side to reverse side. 75

The classic sewing technique of cording can

be used without any problems on fabrics such as cotton and light wollens Underclothing and children’s wear can be given a traditional look with cording. — Engage the cording foot. — Replace the needle with a twin needle 11.6 or 2 mml. — Thread up with two needle threads Isee page 64). — Now set the needle thread tension quite tight lat about 5), to make the seam more prominent. TiP: If you wish to emphasize the cording effect, you can fit a cording tongue” on the front edge of the needle plate. This shapes the fabric during sewing and gives the cording more volume. You can obtain a similar effect by using a gimp thread; this makes the cording look wider. In this case, however, do not use a cording tongue. — To do this, remove the needle plate. — Thread the gimp thread through the hole of the needle plate from below to the top. — Replace the needle plate. The notch bet ween the needle plate and the sewing machine provides space for the gimp thread. This thread must be fed under the cloth plate, so that it does not become tangled during sewing. — During sewing the cording pull the material lightly. — You can use the grooves in the cording foot to guide the work along an already sewn cording seam. This ensures that the distance between cording seams is always constant. TIP: There are two different cording feet: a five groove and a seven groove foot Isee table on page 74). With the seven groove foot the sewn cordings are closer together than with the five groove foot. 76

Binding with bias tape is a very easy method

of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about an inch wide. — Remove the foot holder with sewing foot and screw on the binder. — Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a dia gonal. — Push the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull it out to the back. — Adjust the binder so that the needle enters at about 1/16 from the folded edge of the bias tape, or adjust the needle position. Stitch about an inch or so along the bias tape before you insert the edge to be bound into the slot of the binder. The raw edge must be placed between the bias tape edges. During sewing, the bias tape will enclose the raw edge automatically. TIP: You can obtain an additional effect by using zigzag stitch or a fancy stitch. This is a really classic sewing footi You can make closely or widely spaced pleats as if by magic. The multistitch gathering foot can be used in three different ways: 1 Folding the fabric in pleats. 2. Folding the fabric in pleats and sewing them on in one operation. 3. Folding the fabric in pleats, sewing them on and sewing on lace at the same time. When you buy the multistitch gathering foot from your PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions are included. Bias tape binder Multistitch gathering foot 77

O35-lj 1,5 2

3 cording I I b C jO.35.lj 1.5 2 j foot I Cording foot Cording is a technique in which pearl thread or a fine cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this you can obtain an effect similar to braiding. Appliqués can also be made more effective with this seam. -. Mark the required motif on the fabric, avoiding too tight curves or angles if possible. — Engage the cording foot and place the fil ling thread in one of the front grooves of the foot. then place the filling thread in the back groove under the foot shoe. — Now overstitch the filling thread with nar row and dense zigzag stitches Now you have made a socalled purl seam. TIP: You can also obtain a special effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different colour. Appliqué foot Appliqués are quickly made and always pro duce a beautiful fancy effect. By using diffe rent materials and patterns you can obtain variations galore. You can make a perfect. densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot, because it has a special cutout on its sole for the zigzag seam — Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing machine. — Transfer your drafted pattern to the face side, smooth side, of the fusible backing fabric. Remember that any letters or num bers have to be drawn in mirrored fashion. -. Now iron the backing fabric onto the appli que material. Cut the motif Out and pull the paper off. — Place and iron on the applique parts on the base material. — Afterwards overstitch all contours with nar row and dense zigzag stitches. When you reach a curve, use the needle down” iModel 62301 function to help you guide the work more easily. Also make sure the needle passes the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later. 78

With this special foot for loop embroidery you

can produce fantastic effects in no time. This foot is very useful for terry cloth. -. Mark out any pattern you wish with the magic pen. — Use a silk paper underlay and engage the fringe foot. — Embroider the motif, row by row. For circ les you have to work from the outside inward. — For thicker threads you may have to choose a longer stitch length; it is best to sew a test seam first. — When you have finished, pull the work out of the machine carefully, because if you pull too fast, you will pull the last loops tight. — Knot the threads on the reverse side. 79

Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material.

Fabric weight Fabric weight Fabric weight light medium heavy needle needle needle 607075 8090 100 110 120 Needle points Type Shape Type of eye Suitable for and point 130/705H Small ball Universal needle for fine synthetic Needle size: point wovens, fine linen, chiffon, batiste, 70/SO — organdy, wool fabrics, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery 130/705 H-SUK Medium ball Openknits, warpknits, lastex, interlock, Needle size: — — point Quiana, Simplex 70/110 130/705 H-PS Medium ball Special Pfaff stretch fabric needle, very Needle size: - point suitable for delicate stretch and warp- 75 + 90 knits 130/705 H-SKF Large ball Open corsetry fabrics, Lycra, Simplex, Needle size — — — point Lastex 70/110 130/705 H-J Sharp round Twill, workwear, heavy linen fabrics, Needle size: point blue jeans, light sailcloth 90-110 130/705 H-LR Narrow twist Leather, suede, calf and goatskin Needle size: point 70-120 (right) 130/705 H-PCL Narrow wedge Imitation leather, plastics, foils and Needle size: point with left oilcloth 80-110 twist groove 130 H-N Light ball Topstitching with buttonhole silk or Needle size point with synthetic threads, 30/3 70-110 long eye 130/705 H-WING Hemstitching Effective hemstitch seams on heavily Needle size: point dressed materials, organdy and glass 100 cambric 80

Fancy pattern with twin needles

Before you sew the desired ornamentation, turn the hand wheel to check whether the needles sew through the fabric correctly. In this way needle breakage can generally be avoided. Fancy stitch/zigzag patterns 1 30/705 H-ZWI Size: 80 0,5 — 1,5 mm wide 1,6 mm ornamentation Size: 80 0,5 — 1.5 mm thin 2,0 mm ornamentation Size: 80 0.5 — 1,5 mm thin 2,5 mm ornamentation Hemming/special double needle 130/705 H-ZWI-HO decorative Size: 80 2,3 — 3,0 mm very thin — hemming Size: 100 2,0 — 3,0 mm very thin — effect — fabrics and glass batiste are particularly suitable 81

Maintenance and fault-finding

I E r Changing the needle plate Cleaning and oiling Changing the sewing lamp Sewing problems and their solution Page 84 Page 84 Page 85 Page 86 83

It is very important to clean and oil the sewing

machine, because it will reward you with a longer service life. The more often you use the machine, the more care it needs. Removal: Switch off the main switch — Raise the sewing foot and remove the detachable work support. — Push the point of a small screwdriver into the opening between needle plate and sewing machine. Twist it lightly to the right and the needle plate will snap half way out of its mounting. Now push the screwdriver into the left opening and take the needle plate out. Replacing Cleaning and oiling Switch off the main switch — Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog. — Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush. — Then apply a drop of oil every 15 to 20 hours of operation) to the hook. You can see where to apply the oil in the illustration and on the oil bottle supplied. The machine is otherwise maintenance free and must not be oiled. — Place the needle plate flat at the back and push it down with both hands at the front until you hear it snap in place. Before you start sewing, check that the needle plate is lying flat. ILht Changing the needle plate 84

Changing the sewing lamp

Switch off the main switch Disconnect the mains plug and the toot control plug from the machine. -- Take off the detachable work support. The sewing lamp Ibulb) is located inside the needle head of the sewing machine Removal To make it easier to change the bulb we recommend placing the sewing machine on the hand wheel as illustrated. — Hold the sewing machine tightly — Push the bulb into its holder as far as it will go, and turn it anticlockwise to remove Insertion Insert the bulb in the diagonal holder and turn it so that both stops of the bulb engage. — Now push the bulb fully into the holder and turn it clockwise so that it is held firmly. Important! The maximum permissible bulb wattage is 15 Watts! 85

Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/cause: 1. The machine Skips stitches Needle is not properly inserted. Wrong needle is in use, Needle is bent or blunt. Machine is not properly threaded. Needle is too small for thread. 2. Needle thread breaks See reasons above Thread tension is too tight. Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has become dry after toolong storage. Thread is too thick. 3. Needle breaks off Needle is not pushed fully in. Needle is bent. Needle is too thick or too thin. Needle is bent, and has hit the needle plate because you are pulling or push’ ing the fabric The bobbin case is not properly inserted 4. Seam is sewn unevenly The tension needs adtusting. Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard. The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Thread tangling at top or bottom side of fabric. 5. Machine does not feed or feeds irregularly Sewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows. Feed dog is lowered, slide B (see page 27 is at right. 6. The machine is running with difficulty There are thread remnants in the hook race. Remedy: Push needle fully upwards, flat side facing the back Use needle system 130/705 H. Insert a new needle Check how machine is threaded Use a larger needle See above Adjust thread tension Only use good threads Use needle with large eye (System 130 NI. Insert new needle and push fully in. Insert new needle See needle chart Ipage 80. 81). Let the machine teed the fabric. Only guide the fabric lightly. When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop. Check top and bottom tensions. Only use perfect threads Do not wind thread freehand, but run it on through the winding tension. Thread up correctly. Check needle and bobbin thread tensions. Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush. Push slide B (see page 27) to left. Remove the threads and apply a drop of oil to the hook. The main switch must be turned off before sewing feet and needles are replaced Do not ope. rate the threaded needle without fabric. When leaving the machine, even for short periods. switch off the main switch. This is Important if there are any children nearby. Important note: 86

G. M. Plaff

Aktiengesellschaft Werk Karisruhe-Durlach GritznerstraL,e 11 76227 Karlsruhe Gedrucki in Deutschland Druckerei Gablenz GmbH 76356 Weingarten, Stettiner StraSe 17 Technische Anderungen vorbehaften Nr.: 29629996-65/OOO OG englisch 8/93

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