Kenmore KENMORE 385. 12708 Owner's Manual

fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control. Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire. Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of this booklet. Model No. 385. Serial No Retain these numbers for future reference. THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaialble .............. 3 Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4 Identify the Accessories ........................ 4 PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_7 • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... S • Foot Control Use .......................... 5 • Setting Spool Pins .......................... 6 • Adjust the PresserFoot Lever .................. 6 • Thread Cutter ............................ 6 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table . . . 7 • AccessoriesStorage Box ' 7 • Change the PresserFoot ...................... 7 Choose the Needle and Thread ................. 7_8 • To Change the Needle ....................... 7 • Check the Needle .......................... B • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ...... 8 Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 9_10 • To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 9 • Wind the Bobbin ....................... 9_10 • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ........... 10 Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 11_12 • Thread the Needle ........................ 11 • Pick Up the Bobbin Thread .................. 12 Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 13_14 ReverseStitch Control ........................ 14 Stitch Selector ............................. 15 Stitch Length Control ........................ 16 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 16 Starting To Sew ............................ 17 LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches .......................... 18_22 • Straight Stitch ........................... 18 • Use the Seam Guides ....................... 18 • Turn a Square Corner ...................... 18 • Topstitching ............................ 19 • Left Needle Position ....................... 19 • Sew in a Zipper ........................ 20_21 • Use the Darning Plate ...................... 22 • Darning ............................... 22 Zigzag Stitches ........................... 23_30 • Basic Zigzag ............................. 23 • Satin Stitch ............................. 24 • Applique ............................... 25 • Bar Tacklng ............................. 25 • Sew a Button ............................ 26 • Overcasting Stitch ......................... 27 • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 28 • LaceWork .............................. 28 • Blind Hemming .......................... 29 • Shell Stitching (Models 12712and 12714) ........ 30 • Box Stitching (Model 12714 only) .............. 30 Stretch Stitches .......................... 31 _33 • Straight Stretch .......................... 31 • Rick-Ruck Stretch ........................ 31 • Smocking .............................. 32 • Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 32 • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching (Models 12712 and 12714) ................... 33 • Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12714 only) ......... 33 Buttonholes ............................. 34_35 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When ........................ 36_37 SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 38 Cleaning the Machine ...................... 38_39 • Clean the Feed Dogs ....................... 38 • Clean the Shuttle Race ..................... 39 Oiling the Machine .......................... 40 • Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under Arm Cover Plate .......................... 40 • Oil the Underside ......................... 40 PARTS LIST ........................................ 41 INDEX ............................................ 42

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog, Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where. Locate and Identify the Parts Take-up Lever Bobbin Winding Tension Disc \ Upper Thread Guide Thread Spool Pins Bobbin Winding Spindle Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Thread Cutter Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Control Needle Plate Shuttle Cover Extension Table (Accessory storage box) Stitch Selector

/_I lI'_ Lint brush _mall screw driver __ittonhole opener (_ Large screw driver Sliding buttonhole foot Zipperfoot Straight stitch foot Satin stitch foot

Plugin the MachineandSwitchon the Power SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Foot Control Use NOTE: 1. 2. 3. Power supply plug Power _1 _[_ switch Power supply Plug connector Machine plug J Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one way. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet. light Power swltch 4, Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light, SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the light/power switch to prevent injury to children. / Foot control The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew. To increase speed, gentry press down with the ball of your foot. To decrease speed, release your foot pres- sure slightry. NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.

t Spool pin The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread when feeding thread to the machine. To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage. Adjust the Presser Foot Lever Normal up __._ position positior High position P position 'Presser foot lever J The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot. You can raise it about 1/4"" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presserfoot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot. • Thread Cutter Jtter You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the handy thread cutter. Pull the threads to lengthen several inches before starting the next seam.

(Continued) • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table • Accessory Storage Box \ To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage (for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you. 1. Grip the table with your index finger Sewing accessories are conveni- and thumb, as shown, ently located in the box. 2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out. To Attach the Extension Table (for flat*bed sewing) 1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches. 2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in. SECTION 2. • Change the Presser Foot Q ! Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presserfoot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Choose the Needle and Thread • To Change the Needle Flat side away from you ( _",_"k Needle clamp screw •-._ / ,_i NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. I, Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you. 2, Remove the needle by pulling it down- ward. 3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you. 4. Push the needle up as far as it will go. 5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the rarge screwdriver from the accessory box.

sewing. rn the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue (11 ) ......... for stretch fabrics. Orange (11) ........ for lightweight fabrics. Red (14) .......... for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics. Purple (16) ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics and decorative topstitehing on these fabrics. (This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread.) Green (18) ........ for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-stitching on these fabrics. Replacement Kenmore needles ere available at your nearest Sears store. • Check the Needle 1. Look for barbed or blunt point. 2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics. Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness. Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart NEEDLE RECOMMENDED FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH COLOR SETTING Lightweight : Polyester Core/Cotton 2 Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Wrap (12 stitches per Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, 11-ORANGE Fine Mercerized Cotton inch) Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Silk A Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blend, 50 Mercerized Cotton Percale, Gingham, Polyester Core/Cotton 2--2.5 110-12 stitches Shantung, Pique, 14-RED Wrap per inch) Seersucker, Satin, Knit, Silk A Suit ings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: 50 Mercerized Cotton Corduroy, Den ira, Wool, 14oR ED Mercerized Heavy-Duty 2--3 Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, or Polyester Core/Cotton (8-10 stitches Gabardine, Velvet, 16-PURPLE Wrap per inch) Leather Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Heavy Weight: Cotton 3 Coating, Upholstery 18-GREEN Polyester Core/Cotton (S stitches per Cotton Duck, Heavy Wrap inch) Twills, Canvas Silk A 3--4 Decorative top-stitching 16-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist 16-8 stitches on all types of fabric 18-GREEN (Use as top thread only) per inch) Stretch Fabric: 11-BLUE Polyester Double Knit, (STRETCH Polyester Core/Cotton 2-2.5 Nylon Tricot, Jersey, FABRIC Wrap (10-12 stitches Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton per inch) Cire Tricot

• To Removethe BobbinCasefrom the Machine SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING • Wind the Bobbin Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover. Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand wheel toward you. To remove bobbin case from shut- tle, pull open latch of bobbin case. Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle. Release clutch by turning the clutch knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle from moving while you wind the bobbin. 9

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin asshown. Place bobbin onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine, When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread. Wind thread until winder stops. Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin. Turn clutch knob away from you while holding hand wheel for normal sewing operation. Insert the Bobbin into the Bol bin Case Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pull thread under tension making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening wise and is coming from as shown above. Pull 3 to4 bobbin as shown, inches of thread from bobbin. Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place case into shuttle and release when latch is released. latch. 10

• Thread the Needle SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING ILuLf_ Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever. Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool. 1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands. The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight. 2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder. 3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left, 4. Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide. 5. Thread needle from front to back. NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading. 11

! 1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top thread. 3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear. If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 2. Is thread tangled around needle? 3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle? 4. Is thread from shuttle tangled? 5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case? 6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions? 12

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Top side of fabric Top _hread Bobbin Setting mark Tighten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, asshown above, magnified to show detail. If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no gaps,that each stitch is smooth and even. When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread. Choose the Correct Tension: The best tension will depend on; the stiffness and thickness of the fabric --~ the number of fabric layers --- the type of stitch The top thread is too loose. o%° The top thread appears on the underside of the fabric. The top thread is too tight The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface of the fabric. Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight: The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through bottom of the fabric. The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of of the stitch will feel bumpy, the stitch will feel bumpy. 13

In a correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance, To match this appearance, adjust the top tension. Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Just Right Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Reverse Stitch Control To reverse stitch, hold down this control during sewing. Releaseto sew forward again. Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight: Too Loose: -- Corner of each -- The top thread zigzag will pull will loop through together on the bottom side of top side of fabrics, fabric and will be pulled almost together. Bottom side of Fabric Just Right: Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing condition& 14

_"'"_ "_ _ The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches. The different types of stitches are designated by color. Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches are red. Stretch Stitches are yellow. Buttonhole Settings are blue. NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when adjusting this control. Model 12708 Model 12710 } io,L""O'TO"- Model 12712 :dl • _ STRETCH_ m_ era) 15

Stitch Length Control j Setting mark / Stitch Length 1/ / \ .I [ I i I I I I \ I i/I .=1 \ \ / / Stitch Length Control 0 2 4 l t ' t J I i i tting mark The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitche setting. The higher the number, the longer the stitch. "0'" means no feed. Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length control. 16 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance Setting mark '///_L- Tl_'2_titch Length I o--I12--3 t_4_ _l I II Till I I J t \ Stitch Length Control To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at • position. In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between Sand L (vposition) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "'L". L • • • S Smocking stretch Rick rack stretch

on your machine and with the accessoriesprovided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. 2. 3. Inspect the needle, it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to the fabric. 4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seammarking on the needle plate when making a simple seam. 5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressureyou put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew. 6. Fasten each seam by back tacking sewing a few stitches in reverse. 7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point. 8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered. 9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. 17

Stitch Stitch selector 1 Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 6 control red x_ z°n_ Straight foot Zigzag foot 1. 2. 3. 4, 5. 6. Raise the presser foot, Raise the needle to its highest position. Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate (5/8" is most common). Draw the threads towards the back and lower the presser foot. Press the foot control. Hold the fabric loosely and gently guide it along the guide line, so that it feeds naturally. Do not force the fabric or try to pull it tight. 7. 8. 9. At the end of the seam, you may want to reverse to lock the stitch. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Cut the threads, Use the Seam Guides Cornering Guide The seam guides on the needle plate are there to help you measure seam width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked. Turn a Square Corner To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge: 1. Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning hand wheel toward you when the fabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering guide, as shown, 2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line the edge with the 5/8" seam guide. 3, Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction.

Stitch Stitch selector I Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 6 control redzon Straight foot Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Topstitching emphasizes the lines of your garment and keeps seams and edges flat and crisp. Accent suits or blouses with one or two rows of topstitching around the outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars. Here's How 1, 2. 3, Lower the presser foot. Keep the edge of the fabric next to the right edge of the presser foot. Evenly guide the fabric along this edge to produce an even row of topstitching 3/8" from the edge. Left Needle Position Stitch selector © Use Left Needle Position for more control while topstitching or edge stitching difficult fabrics. NOTE: Use only zigzag presser foot for Left Needle Sewing. 19

Fabric Preparation: Put the right sides of the fabric to- gether and sew to the end of the zip- per opening, Use the reverse to lock the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with stitch length at "4" and top thread tension at "3", of fabric Top edge of fabric Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 3 to S control 2 Zipper foot< 1/S") Zipper teeth Zipper tape To Sew: 1. Fold back the left seam allowance as shown, 2. Turn under the right seam allow- ance to form a 1/8" fold. 3. Place the zipper teeth next to the 1/8" fold and pin in place. 4. To sew the left side of the zipper, set the zipper foot on the left side of the needle. 5, Lower the zipper foot on the right side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needle pierces the fold and the zipper tape. 6. Sew through the fold and the zip- per tape to the point where the slider begins. 7. Lower the needle to hold the fab- ric and raise the presser foot. 20

seam. INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDrNG INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hore of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as shown. Follow the zipper manufacturer's inst- ructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch, CORDrNG Foot can also be used to make cording for slip- covers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown. NOTE: Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT'" (6757) for "invis}ble zipper" and "cording", which can be obtained at any Sears retail store. 11. To sew the right side of the zip- per, set the zipper foot on the right side of the needle. 12. Stitch across and below the bot- tom of the zipper. 13. Turn the corner and continue to guide the foot along the zipper teeth, as shown. Stitch through the fabric and zipper tape. Right side "'-, f / 14. Stop about 2" from the top of the zipper. 15. Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot. 16. Remove the basting stitches and open the zipper. 17. Lower the foot and stitch the rest of the seam. Make sure the fold is even. 21

Usethe DarningPlate Sometimes when you sew, you want to control the fabric youself. The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. To Put on the Darning Plate: NOTE: The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the needle plate. In the darning plate, these holes are slightly to the left of center. 1. Position the darning plate with the 3 pins on the bottom. 2. Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes. Use the darning plate in the following ways: Darning (P. 22) Button Sewing (P. 26) • Darning Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control any number adjust) No presser foot Darning plate Here's How 1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see p. 2.2). 2, Remove presser foot and stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. 3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning. 4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow speed, 5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until you have covered the darning area. 6. Turn the fabric a half turn and sew another layer of stitching over the first layer. NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly damaged, usea separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce it. 7. When you finish darning, remove the darning 22 plate.

Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 5 control red Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine. It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem- ming, overcasting, mending and darn- ing. It can also be used to decorate with trims, appliques and cut-out work or as a decorative stitch. Here's How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch. Consult the specific variations for detailed directions. Satin Stitch p. 24 Applique Work p. 25 Bar Tacking p. 25 Button Sewing p. 26 Overcasting p. 27 Three-step zigzag p. 28 Rick-rack stretch p. 31 Overcast stretch p. 32 Serging p. 33 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES 23

Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 0.5 to 1 Satin stitch foot The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins). The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique. Close to 0 2 Stitch length: Zigzag width : > > > Here's How Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a scrap of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light weight fabrics. 24

Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 0.5 to 1 Satin stitch foot J Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left. Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 0.5 to 1 Zigzag foot r , i i This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners or pockets and straps on ringerle. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches. 25

• Sewa Button Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control control 1 to 4 any number (not Zigzag foot Darning plate Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 22). I 1. Set the stitch selector at " c_ • 2. Align both holes of the button with theslot of the foot and place theleft hole of the button just below the needle point. 3, Lower the foot and turn the stitch selector to zigzag until the needle point comes just above the right hole of the button. 4, Sew about five stitches and raise needle. I " again and sew a few stitches to lock thread. 5. Set the stitch selector at "" c_:_ To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail. Bring the needle thread down through the hole in the button and wind it around the shank. Draw the thread to the bottom side and knot. 26

Stitch Stitch selector lop thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 1 to 2 Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edgesof any sewing project. Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the raw corner of your seam. If you start right at the edge, the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled. 27

Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 0.5 to 1 Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch, You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch. It has more strength, elasticity, and is flatter than a regular zigzag. The three-step zigzag stitch is especial- ly useful for: -- mending - sewing patches smoothly and securely. -- repairing straight tears. - finishing seams. 28 Seam Finishing Place the fabric under the presserfoot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presserfoot, Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabric. Mending Position the tear under the needle so that the stitching will catch both sides. Lace Work Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top threBd tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 1 Zigzag foot k ?" Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch to blouses and lingerie. Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace. Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 1/2". Place lace underneath and top- stitch using stretch blind hem stitch. Trim excess fabric close to stitching.

Stitch Stitch selector (Regular) top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 1 to 3 Zigzag foot Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector (Stretch) Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 1 to 3 _ Zigzag foot 1/4" Light Weight Fabric 1/4" Heavy Weight Fabric There are two blind hem stitches on your machine. The regular blind hem is used for woven fabrics. The stretch blind hem ts wider and will "give" and is used for knit and stretch fabrics. 1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desired. (See Overcasting, p. 27) 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin. NOTE: For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold. 3. Fold the material (wrong side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished hem edge showing. 4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment. 5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches. NOTE: The blind hem stitch also can be used for Lace Work. (See p. 28) 29

Shell Stitching (Models 12712 and 12714) Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 3 to g control 1to 2 Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Here°s How 1. For best effect: 2. -- set the stitch length as you desire. - you may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly. - allow the needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric when it zigzags. If you sew rows of shell stitches, space the rows 1/2" apart. The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a blind hem over folded fabric. Several rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks. You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or soft silky wovens in any direction. Shell stitching can be used to finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Shell tucking can be used to create scalloped tucks on blouses and lingerie. Box Stitching (Model 12714 only) Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control 1 Zigzag foot Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them. 3O

Stitch Stitch selector IIIIll Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 6 control yellow _k_ stretch stitch position Y_J Straight foot Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch is the stretch variation of the straight stitch, especially develop- ed for knits and stretch fabrics. Stretch stitch can be used on other fabrics as well. It works well on curved seams and on any garments that will receive a great deal of strain (me.children's clothes). The stretch stitch does not actually stretch as it is being sewn, but is stitched in a forward and back motion (sometimes called a "reverse- action" stitch), so that it will give when the fabric stretches instead of breaking. This stitch can also be used for topstitching on all fabrics. • Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control yellow _k_ stretch stitch position L_J Zigzag foot SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch. This stitch can be used asa decorative top stitch aswell. 31

Smocking Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control control 1 to 4 yellow stretch stitch position L_J Zigzag foot With the stitch length at "4", sew straight stitching lines 3/8" apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly. Secure the threads at the other end. Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches, Pu II out the gathering stitches. NOTE: Loosen the top thread tension to make gathering easier. Overcast Stretch Stitching Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control yellow _._ stretch stitch position L_J Zigzag foot The Stitch and its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish. The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It can be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Here's How Place the raw edge of the fabric to the LEFT of the needle as shown. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8" seam, then trim seam allowance after. Raw or worn edgesof older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric needle, which effectively prevents skipped stitches. 32

Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control yellow _ stretch stitch position t___J Models 12712 and 12714) Here's How Place the fabric under the presser Zigzag foot foot so that the stitches are made over the edge. Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8" seam, then trim seam allowance after, NOTE: The Stitch and Its Uses Use this stitch when you want a narrow seam that you do not need to press open flat. It is ideal for 1/4" seams on knits or on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam. It is also great for making elastic swim wear. When using stretch knit fabric, use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches. Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12714 only) Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension Stitch length control 1 to 4 control yellow stretch stitch position L_J Zigzag foot ¸¸ Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments. 1. Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front, center back and side seams. 2. Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch into place, making sure the fabric is evenly distri- buted. 33

Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole rangeon the stitch length dial. (_ For more density, turn the dial toward "0". (_) For less density, turn the dial toward "1 ". NOTE: Always make a practice but- tonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use to find the more suitable stitch length. 34 1. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment. b. Change to the sliding buttonhole foot. c. Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole mark- ing running toward you. Fn°!1 I C°ar stitches stitches for light for heavy fabric fabrics 2. a. Move the slider (A) toward you so that the top mark (C) on the slider meets the start mark (B). b. Line up the markings on the foot with the top mark on your garment. c. Lower the presserfoot. NOTE: The markings on the slider are engraved in centimeters. 3. a. Set the stitch selector at _] . b. Sew forward until you reach the front marking of your button- hole. c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.

selector at _Jz m b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing at the right stitch. . ...... : c- : " t ) I? ; ; : : ? r ,.£; = 5. a. Set the stitch selector at I_ " 6. a. Set the stitch selector at r_ m m b. Sew until you reach the back b. Sew4 to 6 stitches. marking of the buttonhole. c. Stop sewing at the left stitch• c. Stop sewing at the right stitch• NOTE: When sewing at the edge of fabric, set sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated and sew in reverse( bl-->r_-_l_,_ ). _ m m UI I,_d u 6_d 7. Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener• 35

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Incorrect size needle, Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric, Improper threading, Rethread machine, Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension. Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Loose presser foot, Reset presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin, Rewind bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely. Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Breaking Needle Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle. Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot. Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitchs are formed. Puckering Incorrect thread tension(s). Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Bent or blunt needle. Loose presserfoot. Fabric very sheer or very soft. Reset thread tension(s). Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind, Insert new needle. Reset presser foot. Use underlay of tissue paper. 36

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle. Skipping Stitches Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle. Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed. Improper threading. Rethread machine. Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension. Breaking Upper Thread Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread end fabric. Sharp eye in needle. Insert new needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely. Breaking Bobbin Thread Improper bobbin case threading. Check bobbin casethreading. Lint in bobbin caseor shuttre. Clean bobbin caseand shuttle. Darning prate in place. Remove darning plate. Fabric not Moving Stitch Length set at O. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Thread knotted under fabric. Place both threads back under presserfoot before beginning to stitch. Thread caught in shuttle. Disassemble and clean shuttle. Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Lint in bobbin caseor shuttle. Clean bobbin caseand shuttle. 37

Cleaning the Machine T T 1. Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTION! The light bulb could be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it. 2. 3. Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter*clockwise to remove it, Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise. To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times. The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread is caught. Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use. If you sew frequently, clean more often. Clean the Feed Dogs Follow these directions: 1, Unplug the machine. Remove presser foot and needte. Using a screw driver, remove needle plate. 2. Use a lint brush to clean the feed 3. Replace needle plate. dogs. 38

Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area about every three months. Center pin of the shuttle Lever case Shuttle driver Lever Lever hurtle To Clean the Shuttle Area: 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case. 2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift shuttle race cover and take shuttle out. 3. Clean the shuttle race with a llnt brush. 4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not over-oil. To Replace Shuttle Assembly: 1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle driver is forming half moon on the left side of the machine. 2. Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook will be on the bottom. 3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle assembly. 4. Snap the levers back into the original position. 39

can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric. Kenmore sewing machine oil is available at your nearest Sears retail store. NOTE: Unplug the machine before oiling. Remove needle and put needle bar in full down position. e Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate • Oil the Underside Facecover plate _ cover plate I Shuttle cover Open face cover plate and/or remove arm cover plate by loosening top screw to oil points in illustration. Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover. Tilt the machine head back and remove bottom cover. Oil points in illustration. 40

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2, PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling. Ref. No. Part No. Description 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 2O 21 47 6510 *6862 1939 813404013 6551 6552 6553 6554 8O1506008 648801108 650802014 735503018 6870 593401008 *6757 135 *6864 6797 6830 802424004 820832005 41669 *6889 735801008 Shuttle Bobbin case Bobbin box with 10 bobbins Bobbin winder rubber ring No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU) No. 11 Single needles (ORG) No. 14 Single needles (RED) No. 16 Single needles (PUR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN) Needle clamp with screw Sliding buttonhole foot Straight stitch foot Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot Zipper foot Zipper foot Thumb screw Needle threader Light bulb Buttonhole opener Lint brush Large screw driver Small screw driver Oil and lint brush Darning plate * These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per instructions above. 41

............... 3, 7 Adjusting stretch stitch balance ......... 16 Applique ........................ 25 Arm cover plate .................. 4, 40 Bar tacking ...................... 25 Basic zigzag ...................... 23 Blind hemming .................... 29 Bobbin ................... 4, 9_10, 41 Bobbin case ............... 9_10, 39, 41 Bobbin thread .................. 12_13 Bobbin winding ................. 9_I0 Bobbin winding tension disc .......... 3, 10 Bobbin winding spindle ............. 3, 10 Box stitching ..................... 30 Buttonhole .................... 34_35 Buttonhole opener ............. 4, 35, 41 Button sewing .................... 26 C Cabinet .......................... 3 Carrying handle .................... 4 Changing needle .................... 7 Changing presser foot ................ 7 Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race .... 38_3g Clutch knob .................. 4, 9, 10 Cording ........................ 21 Cornering guide ................... 18 D Darning ........................ 22 Darning plate ............... 4, 22, 26, 41 E Elasticstretch stitch ................ 33 Extension table ................... 3, 7 F Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart ....................... 8 42 INDEX Face cover plate .................. 3, 40 Feed dogs ....................... 38 Foot control .................... 4_5 Free arm sewing .................... 7 H Hand wheel ..................... 4, 17 I Invisible zipper .................... 21 L Lace work ....................... 28 Large screw driver ................. 4, 41 Light and power switch ............. 4_5 Light bulb ................... 5, 38, 41 Lint brush ................... 4, 38, 41 N Needle .................... 4, 7_8, 41 Needle clamp screw .............. 4, 7, 41 Needle plate .................... 3, 38 Needle, thread and fabric chart .......... 8 O Oiling .......................... 40 Overcasting stitch .................. 27 Overcast stretch stitching ............. 32 P Parts list ........................ 41 Performance problems chart ......... 36_37 Pine leaf stretch stitching ............. 33 Plug connector ................... 4_5 Portable case ...................... 3 Power switch ...................... 5 Presserfoot ....................... 4 Presserfoot lever .................. 4, 6 R Replacing bobbin case ............. 9_10 Reverse stitch control .............. 3, 14 Rick rack stretch .................. 31 S Satin stitch foot ............ 4, 24_25, 41 Satin stitch ....................... 24 Seam guides ...................... 18 Serging ......................... 33 Sewing light ....................... 5 Shell stitching .................... 30 Shuttle ....................... 39, 41 Shuttle cover ..................... 3, 9 Shuttle race ...................... 39 Sliding buttonhole foot ....... 4, 34_35, 41 Small screw driver ................. 4, 41 Smocking ....................... 32 Spool pin ....................... 3, 6 Stitch length control ............... 3, 16 Stitch selector ................... 3, 15 Straight stitch .................. I B_22 Straight stitch foot ........ 4, 18_19, 31, 41 Straight stretch ................... 31 Stretch stitches ................. 31_33 T Thread cutter ..................... 3, 6 Thread guide ...................... 3 Thread take-up lever ............... 3, 11 Thread tensions ................. 13_141 Three-step zigzag .................. 28 Topstitching ..................... 19 Top thread .................... 11_14 Top thread tension ............... 13_14 Top thread tension control ............. 3 Turn a square corner ................ 18 Zigzag foot ......... 18_19, 23, 25_33, 41 Zigzag stitches .................. 23_30 Zipper application ............... 20_2! Zipper foot ............... 4, 20_21,41

the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear .__, .-= in the sewingmachine head. 0 --" FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE =- For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, switch and speed control --- and printed circuit boards. -- __. _- FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS _) For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service __ necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. __ To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN -- CANADA. This warranty applies only while this product is in use in CANADA. __= .= This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from province to province. __ SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT, M5B 2B8 L, ....

or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page 4 for location. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: * PART NUMBER * PART DESCRIPTION * MODEL NUMBER " NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Canter for handling. SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT M5B 2B8 S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No. 735806324 (_